The Apartment Hunt

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Before the big move, I'd done research about renting apts here in Bangkok. Of course, what no one seems to tell you is the potential problems you'll encounter as a farang or foreigner.

Most apts listed online in English are well over the 10,000 Baht price tag each month. That's around $320 a month for a studio, if you're lucky. No kitchen either. That might not seem like a lot, but when you consider the average English teacher here only makes 30-40k a month, that's a lot to spend on a bedroom with a bathroom, and maybe a chair. In case you're wondering, your average Thai only makes about 15,000 a month (according to what my friends have told me). The only way to find the cheaper units is to read Thai or be friends with someone who does.

I was lucky. Before I came here I had one Thai friend, and a friend of a friend who is also Thai. The latter generously offered to help me find an apt. Not realizing how grateful I'd later be, I immediately accepted. She said she'd look online for a few places in the area I'd requested at the price range I requested and see what she could find. I didn't have elaborate hopes: just something walking distance (20 min or less) to work because the traffic here is terrible, and something clean and safe. And preferably, something that doesn't feel like a hotel room.

We decided to meet up on a Saturday since she didn't have to work and I obviously wasn't working either. We took a taxi to the area since one apt was already expecting us. We decided we'd take public transport back later.

We arrived and investigated. It's amazing how 30 square meters can either feel spacious or tiny, depending on the space is used. I didn't care for the first one we looked at; I didn't like the layout and it shared a wall with the elevator shaft. The second one had a better layout and a mini kitchen, but it looked like it could use a fresh coat of paint and had little in the way of storage. I was starting to feel like one of those couples on House Hunters International, minus the ridiculously monstrous budget.

We went down the street and my friend noticed an apt building that wasn't on our list of places to look at. But we inquired anyway and they had one open apt. This building was a bit nicer, fresher paint, and the unit had more storage and a kitchen. Also, the view from the balcony was nicer. That's not a big deal, but it's still something to think about. Both of these were on a quiet street with lots of street food options and little shops down the road. And they're right next to a Tesco Super Lotus (like a Super Target/Walmart).

We walked around some more, even changing neighborhoods. A lot of the other places we inquired at either had no openings or their prices were significantly higher. I began to get discouraged and my feet were killing me. It started to rain a bit. We went back and stopped in the Tesco for some air conditioning and so I could walk around and price things. I've perused the Ikea website and wanted to do some comparison shopping. I left a lot of textiles behind in GZ and need to replace them all.

We went back to the third apt and told the woman I was interested. Next thing I know, we're filling out paperwork and I gave her some money to secure it and a copy of my passport. She also took a copy of my friend's Thai ID. We looked at it again, trying out all the lights and water sources, testing out the sofa. My friend even got the woman to agree to throw in a microwave with the fridge for no extra cost. (In Thailand, you also rent the fridge, microwave, and TV by the month. I'm only paying for the fridge. I'm not getting a TV.) It was settled. I'd move in later in the month. I got names of the woman (who only speaks Thai) and the owner (who speaks English) and their phone numbers. They told me the security guard could call me a taxi if I ever need one. (Yes, I have a security guard 24 hours a day.) We smiled, waved, and left.

A few hours later, basking in the glow of the Ikea website, the owner called. This is where it gets tricky. I can't have my name on the lease because he worries about immigration and what if something were to happen to me? It took me a few minutes to realize he wasn't concerned about my well being, but rather that I'd skip out, leave Thailand, and leave him with no income. He said the woman who showed us the place thought my friend was renting it. He said I could live there if I just told people I was staying with a friend. The whole thing sounded fishy to me. The last thing I want to do is break the law. And he wanted a copy of my work contract to show his boss, to convince him I was good for the money and to prove that I would have the proper visa and not just a tourist one. I was suddenly in danger of losing the apartment. My stomach lurched. My feet hurt. My friend had left Bangkok for the rest of the weekend.

So, after a lot of phone calls and emails with other expats who live or have lived in Thailand (including my soon-to-be boss), it turns out all of this is perfectly normal. Asking for the work contract isn't, though. And since mine has a confidentiality agreement, my boss suggested a letter instead. I called the apt owner back the following day, my stomach whirling and twisting. He said all of this was fine. No problem. He just wanted to clear things up before I got there, so there would be no confusion for either of us. I said no problem and agreed. I explained that I just hadn't quite understood this was how things worked in Thailand. He laughed. "We would love to have you stay with us," he said, "but if it doesn't work out, there are others who want the apartment." I'm not quite sure how that made me feel. Good and bad at the same time. But I suspect he was trying to reassure me.

So now I'm set to move into my new home in a week. TIT. This Is Thailand. Indeed.

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Photos

View from the Balcony
To the east you can sort of see the river (easier to spot when you can see moving boats), the botanical gardens, and even a temple!

View from the Balcony
A proper Thai neighborhood. No skyrises here!