Bus to Khao San!

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The bus pulls slowly into traffic, and I sink slowly into the worn leather seats of the bus, and slip my hand into Jen's hand...for the first time in Thailand, I feel relaxed, and so does she. We know, at least for the next half hour, where we're heading. We have no idea what's gonna happen when we get there, aside from the fact that we're gonna have to put those backpacks back on and step off the bus, back into that sweltering heat, but we put that thought out of our minds, and sit silently on our bus, staring at everything. Me, I'm looking at the cars, and buses; I'm noticing the highway that's just like every other highway I've ever traveled; I'm peering around the bus, staring at the other travellers, feeling the desire to just open up and babble incessantly with them. I look at what the other passengers are wearing, I note solo, or with a mate. There's no group larger than two. And we're all about the same age, 20-30. The sun is climbing higher in the sky, and the bus is gaining speed, flowing now onto more open lanes of a large highway. I see so many other buses, so many brightly colored taxis.... and then, I can't take it. I have to move around. I bounce to another seat on the bus, just behind Jen. I need a better angle out of the bus. I start to look at the billboards, and the buildings.... what is this place? What looks like a cross between slums and farm land dots the edge of the highway. The large green signs spanning the highway have a mix of Thai and English, and I hurriedly try to read some of the roads. "Rama X.....Rama VIII....." Damn, I have no idea what is on these roads. Jen and I are quite... and we ride for about twenty minutes. In silence.


We're approaching Bangkok. We always were, but now, it's official. High rises, and a greater density of structures. And the buildings look dilapidated. Even the high rises. Coming from Chicago, I recognize obvious signs of neglect, blemishes on the facade of buildings which stand out like a pimple on a pretty face; The blackened swath of soot from a high-rise blaze staining the outside of a building; Curtains blowing on the outside of a blown out window... Water stains running down the side of a paint chipped building... Gawdy colors used for entire buildings, because that's all that was available.... But something is amiss, because amongst all this, there is modern-ness. There is no line between old and new, neglected and cared for. It's all around us. I notice to, that we've been traveling for some time amongst all this dense development. Jen and I become more active observers...we're peering at the structures, thinking and mentioning periodically what we want to do while we're here. Mostly, it's review, because we've already discussed a lot of this stuff. I mention a thing or two, she mentions a thing or two...we make no definite plans, just like our bus is taking no definite route. The bus exits, sort of, onto a road just as busy as the highway, but with traffic lights. We're passing neighborhoods now, of businesses and residential areas. I guess that we're in Chinatown...because I start to see chinese laterns, and non-Thai characters on signs and storefronts. I also see classic Chinese hats topping the people walking the streets. Motorcycles now and...Jen! A tuk-tuk! And a local is riding in the back of one! and holy shit! our bus almost hit it! But the Tuk Tuk driver sort of cut the bus driver off! And... what a meley! We're starting to see vendors, and restaurants on the side of the street... on the sidewalks. First one here, and one there. Look on this side! Look on that side!...

Our bus rolls to a stop, and we both sort of let our eyes wander to the left. The bus rolls again, and we start to realize that there are side streets... roads that extend beyond the road we're on. Deep into unknown parts of the city, and our bus makes a hard curve to the right, and just as we're at the apex of the turn... a side street bursts open, extending in one direction totally perpendicular to our bus, and it is ABSOLUTELY TEEMING WITH HUMANITY! People, carts, produce, dogs, kids, flags, lanterns, flowers, vendors, tuk tuks, cars, motorcycles......"WHOOOOOOA!" Jen bursts out. And it's shocking, because the whole bus has been silent for the entire ride, save for the radio. A few look at us, more look outside. Jen is here. After sleeping and dozing for the last umpteen hours, I'm aware that the wonder I have been experience is now shared by my girlfriend.

Another few turns, and the bus is at a stop. Everyone else gets up, and so do we. We've already paid, so the only thing we do, is follow the herd off the bus.

"You ready babe?"
"yeah."
"Grab your stuff, we're here."
"where?"
"khao san, of course."

She's reluctant. I would be to. The bus was nice, was comforting. It was so pleasant. But it did what it was supposed to. It got us to a destination. But this isn't about the bus stop. It's about what's beyond the bus stop.

The sun's blazing, the air is think, and the bus gives us one last good bye, by filling our lungs with exhaust. And as I exhale the exhaust, I get my first glimpse, my first face-to-face contact with Thailand: a table with one or two filthy anglo-whitey's, well tanned, extremely filthy, with Thai beer tanktops, and half empty 22oz beer bottles matching their choice of attire. It's 7 am.

"Hey man, Tuk Tuk?"

The sidewalk is filthy, the road signs are rusting, sharp edges are everywhere. Loose wires seem to be hanging down, sagging too low. The handful of passengers went to the left, and then took a right. And before I even see a street sign, I know where we are. We're walking down Khao san road. And I realize that we are not the first ones to do this. Not by a long shot. In fact, we're not even the first to do this today. Shit. How do I walk down a street with a backpack on? My god, I'm so obvious.

Up next: Snaking our way through the Streets of Bangkok, and looking for the first guesthouse.

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