Bangkok, the city of angels .or the city of insincerity?

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Day 332: Wednesday 27th May - Grand Palace & the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

I decided after all to head to Bangkok this morning. I pay a bit extra for a minibus to drop my near Khao San Road (backpackerville), as by the time I pay for taxi’s either end of my journey it will be more expensive. Rather than stay on Khao San Road, which I’ve heard is incredibly noisy at night, I decide to stay a few streets away. That way I can have the best of Khao San Road - the nightlife - without it disturbing me when I’m trying to sleep. The place I find is on the expensive side at 340 Baht a night (£7) but is nice and clean and the guesthouse has a nice atmosphere as well as a courtyard cafe. As I’ll probably be here a good few days, I’d rather pay a bit more for a decent room.

After ensuring I have the proper attire on to visit the Grand Palace (shoulders covered, long pants and no sandals) I head out to take on Bangkok. I’d like to say it was a nice, serene walk, but no this is Bangkok. Rather, I brave the chaotic and jammed roads, dodging traffic and the 5 (yes 5!!!) attempts at a scam on the way. I think if someone had asked me before travelling where I thought I would have to be most on guard against the various scams you encounter, then my reply would have been Bangkok. I don’t know why, as at the time I would have no concrete evidence. If today’s anything to go by it looks like I was right. Before I even get out of the Khao San Road vicinity, I’ve been asked 3 times if I want a Tuk-Tuk for 10 Baht (20 pence). This I know is a pre-cursor to them wasting your afternoon taking you to a number of tourist shops where you are pressured into buying various souvenirs and where they get fuel tokens from the shop owners in return. As I get closer to the palace I’m then told by two different guys that it is either closed today or that it is opening later this afternoon as it is a Buddhist festival. The second of these guys then goes on to offer me an ‘alternative sightseeing tour of Bangkok all for just 10 Baht in a Tuk-Tuk.....this has scam written all over it so I walk on where surprise, surprise I find that the Grand Palace complex is open. Knock me down with a feather!!

Considered the biggest cultural attraction of Thailand, the Grand Palace complex was established in 1782, when the capital of Thailand was moved to present day Bangkok. It houses not only a royal residence and throne halls, as well as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). Visiting the complex you reach the Temple of the Emerald Buddha first, which is a series of gleaming, gilded and highly decorated buildings. When I arrive there is a free tour going in 5 minutes, which I hang around for. The guide takes us around the Temple complex finishing at the main chapel, which houses the revered Emerald Buddha, considered as the protector of Thailand. On the way, I learn that the Emerald Buddha, isn’t in fact Emerald but Jade, and has endured an epic journey from Northern Thailand, to Laos where it was recaptured by the Thai’s; and I also discover the full name for the city of Bangkok:

Krungthep mahanakhon amonratanakosin mahintara ayuthaya mahadilok popnopparat ratchatani burirom udomratchaniwet mahasathan amonpiman avatansathit sakkathattiya witsanukamprasit

which the guide takes a good 20 seconds to say. Krungthep for short, it means City of Angels. The tour continues on to the Grand Palace but as you can’t re-enter the temple complex I decide to quit the tour and spend more time wandering around the temples.

Within the same grounds is the Grand Palace, the former King’s residence. Today it is used only for certain ceremonial occasions. You can’t go inside most of the buildings, but the exterior is mightily impressive. After spending a couple of hours at Wat Phra Kaew/Grand Palace I walk to the national museum to see if it is still open. On the way I’m hassled once again for a 10 Baht Tuk-Tuk ride…..hardly angelic behavior in the City of Angels!! The museum is open, but only for another 40 minutes, so I skip it for another day and walk back to the hostel to chill out.

At around midnight I walk down to Khao San Road to find a bar which will have the football on. Khao San Road is a mass of bars, guesthouses, stalls on the street selling souvenirs/food/alcohol all geared to the mass of backpackers and tourists in the area. I haven’t seen more backpackers congregated in one area anywhere on my travels. I have no trouble finding a bar with the football on, but spend a little while picking the one which looks like it will have a good atmosphere. I settle down with a beer to watch the build up to the Champions League Final, which ends up being a big disappointment. My team, Manchester United don’t show up and after a lively first 10 minutes they are outplayed and deservedly beaten 2-0 by Barcelona. Most people vacate the bar after the game has finished, and although some places are still open on Khao San Road, I’m not in the mood to party and go to bed instead. It is 4am after all, and I have a busy day planned tomorrow.

Day 333: Thursday 28th May - Temple of the Reclining Buddha

With last night’s late night drinking beer and watching football, the morning is as good as over before I get up. I’m clearly not going to be able to see everything I had wanted and despite the hangover set off to continue sightseeing in Bangkok. Most things I want to see today are close to the river so I take the Chao Phraya river express. The river express is the boat which runs up and down the Chao Phraya River and is a really convenient way to get around if the place you want to go is near the river. And it’s cheap as well - only 13 Baht (25 pence) for a journey, and sometimes you can manage to get a free journey if you’re lucky. I catch the boat to the stop nearest the main post office where I pick up some mail from home at the Poste Restante service. I get charged 1 Baht (2 pence) for the service, which hardly seems worthwhile, but brings a smile to my face when the guy behind the counter asks me for it.

From the post office I walk to Wat Trimit known as the Temple of the Golden Buddha. The outside of the temple is impressive, but it is closed for renovation and only a small temple in the grounds is open so it isn’t long before I’m on my way. I walk through Chinatown, with its fascinating markets and narrow, busy streets to Wat Pho or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. As I near the entrance, a man stops me and tells me that it isn’t open today as it is a Buddhist day. Hmmm....just as the Grand Palace wasn’t yesterday?! Another scam artist in action, and I try to be as rude as I possibly can be towards him. When I reach the entrance, I find as expected that it is open. Wat Pho is every bit as impressive as Wat Phra Kaew was yesterday. It is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok dating from the 16th century and I am more than once disorientated as I walk around. The big attraction is the 46m long and 15m high reclining golden Buddha. Of all the temples I visit in Bangkok, the reclining Buddha is probably the most impressive image.

Wat Pho also houses a famous massage school. I’m yet to have a Thai massage, and can think of no better place to have one. I enquire about the price, and for an hour it is more money than I have got on me. I can be readmitted on my ticket so I leave the temple to look for an ATM. Finding one is no problem, finding one that won’t charge me the extortionate 150 Baht (£3) to withdraw money is another matter. I must try about 10 different ATM’s over the course of the next hour, getting more and more frustrated when at the end it comes up with the message ’You will be charged 150 Baht for this transaction’. I’ve never been charged by any foreign bank to use their ATM anywhere in the world. I recall seeing a few that charged but it was never a problem to find one that didn’t. Not in Thailand, apparently. Thailand your banks are a bloody disgrace!

£5 lighter in the pocket (my UK bank also will charge me £1.50) I walk back to Wat Pho. I must resemble a Tasmanian Devil, on edge and about to explode in a furious rage. Luckily for them, no Tuk Tuk drivers or scam artists approach me on the way back! The massage certainly helps to calm me down, but I wouldn’t describe a Thai massage as the most relaxing of massages as they use a fair bit of force in contorting your body in positions that you wouldn’t dream it could go in.

It is 5:30pm by the time I leave Wat Pho and I decide I have the time and energy to see one last thing. I catch a boat across the river to Wat Arun, known as the Temple of the Dawn. Unfortunately they are closing up for the day when I get there so I catch a boat back up river to the Banglamphu district (the area where I am staying), get a proper meal and absolutely shattered get an early night. After two half days of sightseeing, I set my alarm to get up early for a full day - so much still to see.

Day 334: Friday 29th May - Wat a day!

The weather is much improved on the last couple of days. The overcast skies have gone and I can tell today is going to be a scorcher. I could do with it being a bit cooler as I know I’m going to be covering some distance on foot today. I catch the river express to Wat Arun, and start off the day as I finished the last. It is a striking temple and it looms large on the Thonburi side of the river. The outstanding feature of Wat Arun is its central prang which is 79 metres high. The central prang is surrounded by 4 satellite prangs, all covered in tiles left behind by Chinese merchant ships. Climbing the steep steps of the central prang you get great views up, down and across the river.

I get the boat back across to the Eastern side of the river and walking past the Grand Palace I arrive at the National Museum. The museum is huge, reportedly the largest in Southeast Asia. The section on Thai history is really interesting but the rest of the museum which is a collection of Thai art and culture is poorly labelled and not worth it.

Thailand has an interesting history. Its history can be traced back to the Kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayuthaya in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Sukhothai Kingdom was Thailand’s first, taking over supremacy in Thailand from the Khmer empire and lasting almost 200 years from 1249-1438. Eventually the Sukhothai Kingdom was superseded by Ayuthaya to the south. Ayuthaya’s supremacy lasted over 400 years between 1350-1767. Because of its good location and effective administration it became one of the most prosperous sites in Southeast Asia at the time. Ayuthaya expanded its influence until the Kings had absolute power over much of what is modern day Thailand. This expansion caused many conflicts with Burma between the 16th - 18th centuries, during which the city was lost, recaptured and finally damaged beyond repair in 1767, although the Burmese were finally defeated.

With Ayuthaya destroyed, the capital was moved to Thonburi (to the west of modern day Bangkok). King Tak Sin the Great in his 15 years on the throne from 1767-1782 accomplished many things. In wars with Burma, Cambodia, Laos he increased the borders of Thailand, diplomatic ties were established with the western world and many temples were rebuilt. When the king died, his successor King Rama I moved the city to the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya river, creating Bangkok. King Rama I was the first king of the Chakri dynasty, which continues to occupy the throne today.

Thailand is the only country in Southeast Asia never to have been ruled by the colonial powers. This was due to its progressive economic and social policies and good diplomatic relations with the western powers. What else surely helped was that it ceded many lands to the British and French between the late 18th century and early 20th century, which reduced its size from current day Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and parts of Malaysia, Vietnam and Burma to its present borders.

After learning about Thailand’s history I get back on the temple trail or should that be the wat wander? I visit Wat Mahathat first (not worth a visit),then Wat Suthat (Saffron robed monks everywhere), followed by Wat Sraket (great views from the gilded pagoda across Bangkok), and skip past Wat Ratchanatdaram (looks impressive from outside) as I’m suffering temple fatigue by this stage. I go back to the guesthouse for a lie down and to recharge the batteries ahead of some more sightseeing later in the afternoon.

I catch the boat up river this time to the Thewet district, from where it is a good walk to the Viranmek Teak Mansion. The entrance is free with the Grand Palace ticket so why not? In the first decade of the twentieth century, King Rama V used this mansion as the royal palace. It is reputedly the world’s largest teak building (it’s massive) and is beautifully decorated with the personal effects of the king. Well worth the visit especially for free, or it should be if you didn’t have to pay 20 Baht (40 pence) for the locker to leave your camera in, as you aren’t allowed to take it inside. Why not tell people not to use them or offer a free locker service? Another money making scheme from the Thai’s.

From the teak mansion I walk past the current King’s palace (King Rama IX) to my final Wat of the day. Wat Benchamabophit is known as the marble temple. Its main temple is being renovated but the grounds are beautiful - a canal runs through the middle. I’ve seen only a handful of Bangkok’s 300+ temples, but I’ve already got temple fatigue. There are only so many golden Buddha images you can stare at before you become bored. The best three temples - or my favourite three are Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Arun in that order. These are the three temples that most tourists visit and rightly so.

With my day’s sightseeing over, I’m now in a rush to get back to my guesthouse. Tonight is Friday night, one of the three nights a week when Muay Thai fights (or Thai Boxing) are on at Lumphini stadium, the country’s main venue. The first fight doesn’t start until 6:30pm and it is only 4:30pm when I start making my way back. However, it is a long walk, followed by a boat ride, a short walk at the other end, a quick shower and then catching a tuk tuk.

I don’t anticipate having a problem getting a tuk-tuk, after all I’ve been hassled countless times by the drivers of the said vehicles, but surprisingly I do. The reason is that I’m not prepared to be ripped off by them. I ask at my guesthouse and they say the cost of a ride to the Lumphini stadium should be 100-120 Baht. I ask about 3 different drivers and the starting price is 300 Baht, which even after bargaining they won’t reduce below 200 Baht. One driver offers me 30 Baht with one stop. I wonder where that may be....a gem store by any chance...or will that one stop turn out to be 3 or 4!! I eventually manage to get one for 150 Baht, under no illusions that I’ve paid more than a Thai would. In dense traffic, swelled by the fact that it is rush hour on Friday evening our progress is extremely slow. It takes one and a half hours for the 7km journey, and I’m wondering if I could have walked quicker. My first experience in a tuk-tuk has been a bit disappointing.

The Thai boxing has been going for almost an hour when I arrive. The ticket options are ringside for 2000 Baht (£40) and then two standing options for 1500 and 1000 Baht respectively. As you can imagine there are a different set of prices for Thai’s! Whilst being on the pricey side, I opt for ringside, it has been a long day of walking and it will be good to rest my feet, and if you’re going to do it you might as well do it in style. Seated about 5 rows back, I take my seat towards the end of the first fight. I’ve missed two preliminary bouts, but there are still 6 fights after this one, so my late arrival doesn’t matter too much.

The atmosphere inside the stadium is electric. It is a stadium is name only. It resembles an empty warehouse, complete with corrugated iron roof, a ring has plonked in the middle, around it about 6 rows of temporary seats - occupied mainly by tourists and press; and behind the posh seats the locals are fenced off in a ‘pen’of wooden terracing. Each fight follows a familiar pattern. 5 rounds of 3 minutes each, with 2 minutes rest in between rounds; the initial rounds are a tense affair with both boxers sizing each other up. The later rounds get exciting, as each fighter starts to go for it, using combinations of punching, kicking, kneeing and elbowing, the noise in the stadium cranks up, and in between rounds there is a flurry of activity behind as locals put bets on who is going to win. The main fight of the night is the fifth, but it is probably the most disappointing. There isn’t too much action before one of the fighters is disqualified for not fighting. The last two fights are between kids, but despite reservations they are decent fights, although maybe the quality and technique isn’t that of earlier fights. The last fight finishes at about 10:30pm, so even though I arrived late, I’ve had a full 3 hours of entertainment from Thailand’s main sport.

I’ve really enjoyed going wild at a Muay Thai fight but the night is still young. After experiencing some Thai culture, I fancy a walk to the Patpong district for some ‘general culture’. Patpong is Bangkok’s red light district, and when you think of Bangkok the raunchy nightlife is one of the things you think about. I’m not interested in getting involved, that’s not my scene, but I’m still intrigued to have a look.

Just before the end of the boxing the heavens open and it is a full hour before the torrential downpour slows to a steady rainfall. I’ve decided to postpone my visit to Patpong for another night and get a taxi home. Bangkok’s taxi drivers are as bad as its tuk-tuk drivers. I stop several but they want extortionate amounts for the journey and won’t use the meter. After further waiting around, and with the rain easing slightly I decide to set off in the direction of Patpong. I don’t get very far when I manage to get a tuk-tuk for 150 Baht (£3). Too much, but in the rain he has the upper hand. This ride is much better than the first. The roads are quieter and it takes only 15 minutes to get back. He asks for a tip when we reach Khao San Road, but tuk-tuk drivers you have no chance of getting a tip off me. If you hadn’t guessed it already I hate tuk-tuk drivers, the lowest of the low, the most insincere set of people you can meet. That said a ride on a tuk-tuk is iconic and the sound they make as the race through Bangkok’s streets is great.

Khao San Road is in full swing when I get back there. I’m not interested in a few drinks though, I’ve another early start tomorrow. Also, there’s something about the atmosphere I don’t really like. Be it the noise, fighting your way through the crowds, avoiding the street traders who are selling their wares all down the street, the western culture which has suppressed anything Thai, and well the insincerity of it all.

Day 335: Saturday 30th May - Escaping Bangkok to Thailand’s ancient capital

I decide to get a river express and then catch the train to Ayuthaya rather than catch the bus. It isn’t quicker but is more economic. I have to wait an hour in the station before the next train. It takes 2 hours, stopping at every station on the way for the third class train to get to Ayuthaya, 50 miles away. The seats are wooden but the train is atmospheric and cheap - only 15 Baht (30 pence) for the 2 hour journey. Once in Ayuthaya, I catch a ferry across the river (Ayuthaya is an island formed by the convergence of 3 rivers) and hire a bike on the other side of the river.

It must be noon before I get on my way to explore the island of Ayuthaya, one of Thailand’s former capitals. I got up early so I’d have a full day here, so much for that plan! Historic temples are scattered around both the island of Ayuthaya and also off the island. The island itself is about 5km by 3km, so the best way to visit is by bike. Before I start visiting the temples I go to the Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre to get a historical overview. It isn’t worth the entrance fee, I learnt just as much in Bangkok’s National Museum as I did here, and within 15 minutes I’m back on my bike.

I visit Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Mongkonbophit, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Thammikarat, Wat Ratburana and Wat Phra Mahathat in that order on the island. It is frustrating paying 50 Baht a go to enter the temples, particularly when Thai’s pay 10 Baht and also when you can see nearly as much from the outside. By the time I get to Wat Phra Mahathat I opt to take a look from the outside rather than pay the entrance fee. The Wat’s are different from those in Bangkok. With the exception of Wat Phra Mongkonbophit they are all ruins and don’t house any golden Buddha’s so it is a different experience. Wat Phra Si Sanphet is my favourite of Ayuthaya’s temples and also the largest. Three bell shaped chedi in a row though can’t hide the ravages of war and time, as the surrounding buildings are worn through to their bricks, and leaning to one side as gravity takes its toll.

Surprisingly, I’ve made very good time, and when I stop for lunch after visiting the main ruins on the island it is only 2:30pm. Over lunch I get the map out and decide which temples I will visit off the island. Distances in between the temples are larger so progress isn’t going to be quite as quick as on the island. Before I visit any more temples, I visit the elephant kraal (enclosure), the last remaining one in Thailand. Speaking of elephants, I have seen a number of them wandering the streets, offering tourists rides as I’ve been riding around. It is quite strange as Ayuthaya is quite a busy town.

Cycling off the island is much more fun than on it, as the roads are quieter and you get more of an insight into Thai life. I visit Wat Naphrameru and Wat Phu Khao Thong which offers a view across the plains of Ayuthaya from the top of its slightly wonky chedi. On my way to what is going to by final stop of the day, Wat Chaiwatthanaram it starts raining and as it gets heavier I have to take shelter for half an hour. I never do find the last ruins, I must have ridden past them. However, even riding around you pass other ruins and you can imagine how once upon a time this was a truly magnificent city.

I drop the bike off, catch the ferry back to the other side of the river and have an hour to wait for the train to get back to Bangkok. It is approaching 9pm, when I get back to Bangkok. Hoping to avoid the need to get a tuk-tuk, I walk to the nearest stop on the Chao Phraya River Express, only to find out that it doesn’t run after nightfall. Do I walk to Patpong??......no too tired, so I get a tuk-tuk. The tuk-tuk journey is the best out of the three I’ve taken. The driver has seemingly graduated from the Evil Knievel school of driving as he throws it around corners....love it! Walking back along Khao San Road, I realise it is the cup final. By the time I’ve showered and eaten it’s well into the second half. Once again I’m too tired to make a night of it after a long day, so I watch the remainder of the game in the guesthouse.

Day 336: Sunday 31st May - Chatuchak weekend market

I have a lie-in this morning, and after several long days on the trot, I need it. I wake with a sore throat and as the day progresses I start feeling steadily worse. By the end of the day I feel feverish. Not feeling too bad in the morning, I go ahead and check out and leave my bags to pick up in the evening. I brave the Bangkok buses and catch a bus to Jim Thompson’s house next to the national stadium. Jim Thompson was an American entrepreneur who promoted Thai silk to Western markets after falling in love with Thailand after being posted here on military service after the Second World War. He mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967; the reason remains unknown and many suspect foul play. The house is six teak buildings and in addition to the traditional Thai architecture his collection of Thai art and furnishings is superb.

I take a ride on the skytrain to Chatuchak market next. The skytrain is Bangkok’s answer to resolve the problem of choking traffic jams. It is quick, comfortable (air-conditioning....wow) but covers too little of the city for you to be able to use it for every trip. Chatuchak market is one of the world’s largest, covering 28 acres and containing more than 8000 stalls selling handicrafts, food and drink, antiques, clothing and various other items you never imagined existed. There are various amateur street entertainers, busking which add to the atmosphere of the market. After an hour of wandering the stalls, and feeling unwell and anticipating a heavy downpour, I catch the skytrain back to the heart of Bangkok’s commercial centre, Siam Square. By the time I reach Siam Square it is pouring down - good call Mr Chapman.

I have a look around a couple of the shopping malls at Siam Square, but really I’m killing time. I’ve checked out of my room otherwise I would head back to the guesthouse ahead of my bus journey. I decide to go to the cinema in one of the malls and watch the movie of the bestselling book Angels & Demons. Great film, even better book. Interestingly, before the film starts, the Thai national anthem is played accompanied by a promotional trailer on the king and everything great about Thailand. The Thai’s love their king (the world’s longest serving monarch with 63 years on the throne), and everyone stands to pay their respects. I can’t imagine the same response if they did that before a film in the UK.

It is 8pm when the film finishes and although I would like to visit Patpong, with just 3 hours until the last bus to Nang Rong, that is optimistic. Three hours might seem plenty but when you are using public transport to get across a city in busy traffic, it isn’t. I wish I’d discovered the buses earlier during my stay. As long as you know where you’re going, ask the staff of the guesthouse which bus number, it is relatively straightforward, and infinitely cheaper than taxi’s or tuk-tuk’s with prices capped at 7 Baht regardless of the journey.

Bangkok; it’s certainly not boring and it’s a hard city not to have a firm opinion about. However, I don’t love it, I don’t hate it. The things I do love about it are its great cultural attractions in the form of the big 3 temples, the cultural experience of Thai boxing and taking a Tuk-Tuk ride through its busy streets when you’ve finally bargained a price. The things I hate about it: The insincere taxi and tuk-tuk drivers, the dishonesty of the various scam merchants you encounter and Khao San Road’s lack of sincere smiles.
For some reason I find myself comparing it to Yogyakarta in Indonesia; both have world class temples, both have an iconic form of transport; both have cultural entertainment they are famous for and I was unwell in both cities. Bangkok’s undoubtedly got the more to do of the two cities and should be the one I prefer but it isn’t. Why? Simple: the people. In Yogyakarta people were helpful, sincere and sometimes went out of their way to lend a hand. In Bangkok it’s the opposite, too many insincere people going out of their way to be unhelpful, rip you off or potentially worse.

In the 5 days I spent in the city it is difficult to see what more I could have packed in. However, I leave with a feeling that I didn’t truly experience Bangkok’s nightlife, whether it be on Khao San Road, Patpong or elsewhere in the city. On the sightseeing side, I saw everything I wanted to see during the day, but the trade off was a few early nights. That’s Bangkok’s problem, there is so much to see and do around the clock that you would need a week to do it full justice. However, with only a 29 day visa (I thought it should be 30 days Thai immigration??) and with still much of the country I want to see, I can’t justify a longer stay. In a country known as the ‘Land of the Smiles’, my experience of Bangkok is of a city of insincere smiles.

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