Advertisement
Published: April 3rd 2009
Downtown
Bangkok looking roughly North along Thanon Mahasak, from the Jewellery Trade Center, Bangrak, from the 43rd floor.
For people who hassle me when I don’t post a blog for a week - this is because I mainly write my blogs during long train/bus/ferry trips. This one is being written in a bus from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, which isn’t far, but that’s a story for the next blog. For the last eight days, I’ve been stuck in Bangkok, and so haven’t been inclined to write, plus I haven’t done anything interesting.
This is for two reasons: firstly, I was a little bit ill. Secondly, I’ve been shopping for visas.
In my last blog, I ended with a prediction about the end of my train trip. It was largely correct except I forgot to predict that we’d arrive 90 minutes late. I was also wrong about the train station ... various trains and busses arrive and leave at various stations around Bangkok, some are central and some are not. My train actually arrived into Hualamphong station, which is very central.
I decided to stay at least for a few days at a hotel, and booked into one I stayed at last year, it cost about 450 Baht (less than $AUS 20) per night, which is reasonable in
Watt Yannava
Watt Yannava - meaning "Temple of junk" (as in Chinese ship, not as in garbage), dating back to the Ayuthaya period (14th century?). Its previous name meant "stable for buffaloes". Bangkok these days. I walked from the station, there was a bit of a Mr Bean moment when, with my backpack being higher than it normally is and not having slept for over 30 hours nor eaten for about 20, I got the top of my backpack caught in the sunshade umbrella type thing outside a eatery, on the footpath, I apologised and tried to move on, but knocked it over. I apologised and picked it up and the base fell off.
I had the wrong address for the hotel, so there was a bit of wandering around with my heavy backpack and by now it was mid-afternoon so it was very hot. I finally found it, gave them all my clothes to wash, and fell asleep. The problem with the room is the air-conditioning is either on full blast, blasting you with frigid air, or off. There’s a thermostat in the room but it doesn’t work, I think it’s centrally controlled. Anyway, I woke up an hour or two later and wasn’t feeling too well. I’d had a cold for a while, but on the train when I’d tried to eat some of the local food towards the
Watt Yannava
As we all know after the Australian [i]lese majeste[/i] cases recently, we all love the king! end of the trip I just hadn’t been able to do it. My stomach also felt upset, but that’s a weird feeling when it’s completely empty.
By the next day I wasn’t feeling that great, and by realised it wasn’t just from exhaustion and dehydration like I thought the day before. By the evening I’d come out with large round rashes all over my back and part of my chest and arms, a bit like paintball bruises, but not as purple, if that helps. I was starting to get pimple-sized bumps on my face too and stuff so wasn’t looking very presentable.
The travel insurance and the hotel reception said the best way to see a doctor, particularly in the evening, was to go the outpatients at one of the hospitals. There seemed to be an endless array of hospitals to chose from, but the hotel staff decided that Bangkok Christian Hospital was one of the best, and quite close. This was a little daunting as it was the first place where most of the signs were only in Thai script (all road names and train stations are written in both scripts, and many shop signs in Bangkok
Watt Yannava
The Chinese junk had been very important in trade with China. As western-style ships became more popular, King Rama III (rules 1824 - 1851 in the western calendar), concerned that the younger generation wouldn't know what a junk looked like, ordered this model built. also). They really were Christian too, in the pharmacy section they had a bible verse, out of context, playing on a large computer screen in Thai, Chinese and English.
The first doctor I saw took some blood tests and asked all about my symptoms. I asked if it was possibly allergies, because I had something like this before when I was twelve. She indicated one of the parts of the blood test and said that it was unlikely because that part was normal. She said it was possibly viral, as the tests hadn’t shown it had a bacterial cause, gave me antihystemines to take at night as they cause drowsiness, and told me to come back the next morning for an appointment with the infectious diseases specialist.
I came back at 08:00 the next morning as the appointment had said “08:00 - 12:00 “ and no-one would tell me if that meant it was a four-hour appointment or if I could come any time in that window. When I got there they told me that despite me having an appointment, the infectious diseases doctor wasn’t in today. They put me through to another doctor, who went through all
Watt Yannava
The 19th-century image of commerce: the junk, and the 20th-century image of commerce: the skyscraper. my symptoms again, said it was an allergy, told me not to take the anti-hystemines the previous doctor had given me because they cause drowsiness, and gave me four other pills to take, some twice a day, some at morning and some at night. The warning on one of them was “may cause drowsiness”. On the report he wrote for the travel insurance, it says “Urticaria”. It sure looked exactly like some of the photos of Urticaria on Wikipedia, which also says that it can have a viral cause, so I’m not completely convinced that they’re treating the cause rather than the symptoms. Nevertheless, the rashes didn’t get any worse and were gone in a few days. I still occasionally get itchy and a bit blotchy but not like before. I’d still like to know what set it off, but I guess that’s impossible. It would probably be something from Indonesia, and the food there isn’t healthy. Even in Thailand I think there’s a lot of MSG in a lot of the food, so I’m going to believe that, as I believe (for much the same reasons that most people believe that Eskimos have over three hundred words for “snow”)
Watt Yannava
Small images of the Buddha, the person with the most statues made after him, in Watt Yannava. that it’s pretty nasty stuff. Anyway, most of my tablets run out yesterday, and I’m still fine today. I still have a runny nose and a chesty cough but I think that’s unrelated.
After lying low on Friday and Saturday, I emerged on Sunday to explore Bangkok a bit more on foot. I was here for a couple of days in May last year, so I didn’t feel inclined to do the Grand Palace or the Golden Mount again. There’s photos of them on my facebook profile, if anyone really cares. Instead I walked down the street I was staying on, and found Wat Yannava, which is in the pictures (I don’t like the way that Travelblog doesn’t let you align the text with the photos!) I then took the train out to Sukhumvit road, which basically runs throughout the whole country, but this was still in Bangkok, to an English-language second-hand book store, where i did what I always do in second-hand book stores, bought about $100 worth of books which I’ll probably never read, and in this case can’t carry with me.
I did pick up a Chinese guidebook though and a “teach yourself Russian” book,
Sukhumvit road
A shopping centre on Sukhumvit road, near Nana (I think) BTS Station (Sukhumvit road is very long) which might be useful. I’m going to give up as a bad joke any dreams of picking up Chinese, which will make travelling through Western China fun. By all accounts the Chinese aren’t very helpful to tourists, to say the least, and nothing is written in Latin characters. But likewise in the Central Asian republics no-one speaks English, and their
lingua franca is Russian. Russian looks a bit more accessible, and having a fairly familiar alphabet means one might even be able to pick up a few words off road signs. Maybe I'm a bit tone-deaf, tonal languages sound quite difficult for me, I haven’t picked up a single Thai word, for example, probably because I haven’t met that many Thais. Anyway, I hung out at Sukhumvit road for a bit - it’s really too hot in the afternoon to do anything in Bangkok - then int he later afternoon went down to the river to see the Reclining Buddha (“Wat Phro”) one of the largest Buddha-images in the world (?) - 46 metres long. This is right near the Royal Palace, so if I hadn’t been there recently, it would be a good thing to do them both in
Benchasiri Park
Benchasiri Park, a small (4.7 hectacre), nice, park on Sukhumvit road the one day. After this I took the ferry across the river to Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn, then took the ferry all the way down the river to where I was staying. This is sounding a bit like one of those “and then i had rice” type blogs, so I’ll just say that the point is that Bangkok is covered in temples and suchlike, and in each one you’ll see more Buddha-images, gargoyles, flower gardens, what-have-you then you can possibly appreciate or photograph in all your lifetimes!
So my health was one reason though that I was happy to stay in Bangkok for a while, I wouldn’t want to get sick in western China. The other thing is that it’s a good place to get visas. I resolved to go about this seriously beginning on Monday. But first, in the saga of the Chinese visa, our story begins way back in the week between Christmas and New year, 2008 A.D. (or B.E. 2551 for any Thais).
Back then, I filled in a visa application form, printed off all my financial documentation to show I had the means to support myself, wrote out a fairly detailed
itinerary, and took it all off to the embassy in Melbourne. The guards told wouldn’t even let me in because I didn’t have airline tickets. I told them i wasn’t flying, so they ummed and ahhed and said I should go away. I insisted that I’d rather talk to someone from the embassy rather than Australian guards, so they let me in to talk to some guy who seemed to be like a receptionist - I still couldn’t get through to the main “Visa” line!
This gentlemen, who appeared to be half-chinese in a rather curious way, which I won’t go into in detail lest someone read this and identify him and he gets promoted by the Chinese government for his work at making things difficult for people, was very faintly spoken. I explained that I didn’t have an airline ticket as I was coming overland.
“That’s fine” he said “We just need to see your ticket to Hong Kong”
“Umm, I’m not coming through Hong Kong, I’m taking the bus from Hanoi in Vietnam into Kunming, crossing at Hekou”
“Then we need to see a detailed itinerary from a travel agent.”
“I attached an itinerary, it’s got all
the towns on it”
“It needs to be from a travel agent, with all your accommodation booked and the trains booked”
“It’s not that sort of trip. So you’re telling me I can’t do it then?”
“No I’m telling you that the requirements of this office are that you have an itinerary from a travel agent”.
“I’d still like to talk to someone from the consulate” This guy didn’t even have a computer.
He shuffled some papers, picked them up, walked across to the consular offices. I thought he was getting someone for me. He came back, sat down quietly, and I waited patiently. After about ten minutes I said something like “umm ... so ... can I talk to someone” and without looking up he said “The requirements of this office are that you have an airline ticket, or a detailed itinerary with all your accommodation for each night, and all your transport booked”. Then he added, just to be silly ... “while in China, and also up to and after China.”
That was in Australia. I considered trying to pay a travel agent to make something up, or booking a flight, applying for a visa, then cancelling
the flight, but word on the web was that it’s easier in Thailand,
In Bangkok I downloaded the Visa application form. The website said they might need airline tickets or financial details “if required”. I went to the embassy in the morning, where there were great throngs of Westerners, Thais and Chinese. The embassy was a good distance from where I was staying, but Bangkok is a big place. I handed the girl my application, which I’d selected for same-day delivery. I don’t think she even said “hello”, if she did I didn’t hear it through the bullet-proof glass with the speaker way too low for tall people. She ticked a box, gave me an invoice to pay at the next counter, and waved me on. This seemed too easy compared to the Australian one. “Do you want to see my financial statements or anything” I asked. “No, I don’t need any of that, come back at 4 pm”.
So I went to the next window, paid nearly $AUS 100 (it’s something like $30 if you can wait four/five working days, but I don’t like being without my passport. This meant I had about three hours in the
Benchasiri Park
It was mid afternoon, very hot, while I was at Benchasiri Park, so I sat by the lake for a while and took photos of turtles. heat of the day to kill, so I walked around till I found the nearest train station and then went in to Lumphini park to sit in the shade. Bangkok’s train system is very neat and easy to use, the only problem is it doesn’t cover enough of Bankok. They’re expanding it though. It also gets a bit crowded in rush hour. I guess this is part of the reason they have so much traffic on the roads, which is just ridiculous.
So that was my Chinese visa, nice and simple. The other ones I needed are the Kazakhstani and the Uzbekistani visas. These embassies aren’t open on Tuesday, so that wasted a day. I spent much of that time trying to work out my exact itinerary, as they are rumoured to put exact dates on their visas, none of this “30 days from entry, must enter before June 30” type stuff that other countries do. I have a big problem here and that is that it’s basically impossible to get a Tajikistani visa, and if I can’t get through Tajikistan my aim of getting to Jordan without flying fails. It’s actually more complicated than it seems to try
Sukhumvit Road
I guess the World Buddhist University and the World Fellowship of Buddhists have a lot more important concerns to worry about than signage. Or maybe it's a clever comment about [i]dukkha[/i]. to work out a new route, specially with only limited access to the Internet. I worked out another good one that would have taken me through southern Russia and down into Azerbaijan, but this is no good because Russian visas are even more impossible for independent travellers. It’s easy to get a Russian visa - if you go through a Russian travel agenecy and send them your passport two months beforehand, and ideally stay in one spot.
The only loophole is you can get three-day transit visas for Tajikistan, but you have to apply for them like normal visas. Yet there’s very few Tajikistani embassies, I won’t be near one until Kazakhstan. Also, these visas take a long time to process. I tried all sorts of other routes taking ferries across the Caspian etc., but they’re all even more problematic. Part of the reason i put so much effort into this is because I thought I needed to have that all sorted out for the Uzbekistani visa, but it seems like I didn’t. Anyway, my plan is to go ahead as planned, assuming I’ll be able to get a Tajikistani visa, and then if I can’t, get a flight
King
There was a row of floats from some procession parked along the road. This shows a standard photo of the King. The photo is fairly old as the King is now aged 82. (ther’s one a week, on Fridays) from Uzbekistan directly to Iran. While this breaks my “no fly” challenge and adds an extra cost, it doesn’t really reduce the quality of my trip and makes it a lot easier to get an Iranian visa.
So on Wednesday I raced out to the Uzbekistan embassy. This involved following complex instructions I downloaded off the Internet in which I had to walk about 20 minutes, take two trains (to the end of the line) , then walk about 2 km, taking a right, two lefts, a right and then I think another right, down some little suburban backstreet full of unsigned buildings with high concrete fences. I then had to race back to get the Kazakhstani embassy before it closed (the Uzbek embassy is open, for consular purposes, from 08:30 - 12:00, it seems every day, I’d thought only Mondays Wednsdays and Fridays, while the Kazakhstani embassy is open 10:00 - 12:00 Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays).
I arrived at the Uzbekistani embassy. Travellers’ stories on the web said that they interview every visa applicant personally, I guess due to the low volume, which is why I’d been a bit worried that
Drum Tower
Drum tower built in 1782. they might not like that I didn’t have a way out of the country planned. When I got there, it was all shut. After a while to make sure I was at the right place, and had the right time, I pressed the buzzer. A lady’s voice answered in some foreign language, I don’t think it was Thai.
“Umm, do you speak English?” - I always feel guilty about this. There’s a clear need for a global
lingua franca but I don’t think it should be English or anyone’s first language. Uzbekistan has their own language, and Russian as a regional
lingua franca, it seems too much to expect anyone to speak four languages. Except all the embassies do speak English.
“Yes”
“OK I wanted to apply for a tourist visa. I’m an Australian”
“Just a moment”
A minute later a little middle-aged lady appeared out of a side door, looking a bit flustered. “Did you make an appointment?”
“No, the webpage said you’re open all morning”
“Yes, but today there’s no-one here, they’re all busy”
So in the end I left my application with her, she photocopied my passport and gave it back to me, and gave me a
Wat Phro (Wat Phra Chettuphon) - temple of the Reclining Buddha.
Temples are a good place to steal shoes, if you have a common size and no conscience. number to call back on the next day.
So I raced straight to the Kazakhstani embassy. This is located in downtown Bangkok, the area of Bangrak, near where I was staying, which is pretty much the financial heart of the city. It’s on the 43rd floor of the Jewellery Trade Center, a massive building which does indeed seem to be all about jewellery trading.
To get into the building you need to show some photo ID which they swap for a temporary building access card. I don’t think they care where you’re going though. If you want to go up a tall building in Bangkok to try to get a view over the city, this is a good place to go, if you’re worried about just walking into a skyscraper, just tell them you’re going to the Kazakhstani embassy.
I turned up there slightly less well prepared than for the Uzbekistani embassy. I had a rough itinerary in my head and on my laptop, but couldn’t remember the place names. I didn’t have a form printed out, because I hadn’t been able to print the night before. The guy at the embassy was very formal but helpful
enough. He gave me a form to fill in, which I did. Then he took my passport and asked for a photocopy of it - don’t they have a photocopy machine? - which I gave him. He then gave me a blank sheet of paper and asked me to write a letter to the embassy, asking for a visa.
I really don’t see what the point of this is, since what I wrote, basically what he told me to write, didn’t really add any new information, and the Visa Application Form made it perfectly clear that I was requesting a visa. It seems like Soviet Bureaucracy gone mad to submit a detailed visa-application form requesting a single-entry tourist visa, plus a letter saying “Dear Sir/Madam I am requesting a single-entry tourist visa”. The fee was $US20. I had exactly $US25 in my wallet, which was lucky, I don’t know what they’d do if you didn’t have US Dollars.
It then turned out that the earliest they could process this would be by Monday, and they couldn’t even guarantee that. The embassy apparently has no authority, it all needs to be submitted to the government back in Almaty. Sometimes
apparently it could take even longer. My Thai visa runs out on Tuesday (they only give 15-day visas now, when you enter overland, and as I’d actually crossed the border on a Wednesday that somehow makes 15 days), but at the time I thought it was Monday, so I was worried about that. I checked with him that I could if needs be come back and cancel the process, taking my passport back. So we’ll see how we go.
The Uzbekistani embassy was much more helpful, I rang them the next day and got put through to someone who sounded important, but was quite chatty. He told me he’d got approval, so whenever I wanted to go out there he’d sort it out for me on the spot. So it’s just a matter of getting my passport back from the Kazakhstani embassy. Hopefully I can do this on Monday, if I can get to the Kazakhstani one when it opens, then race out to the Uzbekistani one before it shuts. It’s all very confusing. I don’t see what Kazakhstan can discover about me in four days that they can’t discover about me in one day.
Yesterday I went
Wat Phro (Wat Phra Chettuphon) - temple of the Reclining Buddha.
It would no doubt impress Zen Buddhists that the Buddha has flat feet. up to Wat Mahatat, which I’d heard has four-hour meditation classes in English. When I got there though, it’s a real working monastery, with all the signs in Thai. I wandered around it, but without the instructions about where to go, I couldn’t find the place. So I hung around outside for a while, watching the curious spectacle of a large number of little stalls selling Buddhist trinkets, from tiny Buddhist carvings, to worn carvings which look very old, to (presumably) true-to-life little figurines of your favourite Buddhist Monk. There were a large number of monks looking through the paraphernalia, some inspecting little figurines with magnifying glasses.
After this I ended up at the National Museum. This had free entry this week, I don’t know why. It’s got a lot of exhibits, but seemed a bit confusing to me because I know nothing about Thai or Khmer history. There were good displays about the history and prehistory of Thailand, and a number of other things, but it would have been better if one was allowed to take photos. I was too tired from walking in the heat of the day to really absorb all the information, but the main
Wat Phro (Wat Phra Chettuphon) - temple of the Reclining Buddha.
As much of the Buddha as you can get into one phohto. This represents his ascent into Nirvana. points I got from the history displays were:
- No-one knows where the Thais originated from. There’s four main theories, including two which give a Chinese origin. The museum prefers the one which says that they arose in this area from earlier Neolithic tribes.
- Thailand is the only country in SE Asia that was never occupied by a European power.
- They love their royal family. All the kings of Thailand have been perfect. The current King has remained neutral and helped the country through some very difficult times.
- It’s kind of ambiguous as to which side Thailand was on in World War 2.
I don’t think this is what you’re supposed to take away from the museum, but I forget the rest. There’s also some good exhibits of ancient Khmer art, which I mention because it’s the only period I vaguely recognise, but there’s plenty of other ancient Buddhist and Brahmanist sculptures too. There’s a whole exhibit about the princess who died (in her eighties) early last year. It’s worth seeing for the buildings themselves.
This found me near Khao San Road, the backpacker mecca. I’ve been quite proud of my ability to
Wat Phro (Wat Phra Chettuphon) - temple of the Reclining Buddha.
You can buy a bag of little coins and put one into each of the 170 (??) drums for good luck. avoid Khao San Road this time, but I had a bit of time to kill, so I wandered around it a bit. The most popular business here seems to be counterfeiting - it’s probably not a bad thing to buy a fake student card to try to get yourself some discounts, but I wonder what sort of people buy fake degrees or fake driving licenses? It’s mainly covered in Khao San Road type people, the ones who blink owlishly if removed more than 100 metres from Khao San Road. The interesting thing is there’s all manner of private busses which will take you out to Kanchanaburi or down to Pattaya or even through to Cambodia, so you can travel all around the place without ever actually using the standard public transport system. These private bus lines have a terrible reputation and cost heaps more, although if you’re planning to stay in Khao San Road anyway, you have to factor in that they save the cost of the taxi.
After this I thought I had to see a Thai Boxing match. Thai Boxing “Muay Thai” is quite famous and popular, so I wanted to see it even though I don’t
know anything about it. I was expecting it to be dark and seedy with dirty old men chain smoking and gambling. But it wasn’t really like that it was a nice stadium, and no-one smoked. Still, it’s true that they get carried away with their love of gambling. I picked the “near ringside” seats for 1500 Baht (about $AUS 62). I think these are just as good as the actual ringside ones, but heaps better than the far-out seats.
It does seem much more interesting than normal boxing, and more brutal. The hands (in boxing gloves) seem to be mainly to distract or push your opponent so that you can kick them. There seemed to be throws as well, although I don’t know if they were legal. There were ten matches scheduled, with number seven being the main one. Two of the matches ended in knock-outs (one where he was really knocked out, one where the referee seemed to think he was too badly hit to go on). All the locals left after the seventh match or trickled out soon after, but I’d been told that the final match was “not Thai boxing” so I assumed it was western
boxing, and I’ve never seen that live either so I thought it might be interesting to watch, so I hung around. There were obviously not enough people left, because they danced around for a bit, then one guy got to the floor - I don’t even remember a fist actually connecting - and the referee counted him out. Technical knock-out. There were only tourists left by that point, so perhaps it’s not meant to be taken seriously.
Anyway, so that’s Thailand. It’s a bit disappointing that I’ve been here so long without having seen any of the rest of Thailand, which by all accounts is very nice. Today I went out to Kanchanaburi, which will be in the next blog, and I hope to try to get out somewhere over the weekend, but I’m a bit worried without my passport. Still, it’s been good to take it a bit easier, because I think while Cambodia and Vietnam will be easy, once I get into western China and into the Central Asian republics it’s going to be quite hard.
After I’d uploaded my last blog entry (last week), I read it again, but it was kind
of too late to change it. I realised how crapful it was. I’m a bit surprised that no-one commented with something like: “Dude, you use comas in much the same way that Those Who Will Be First Up Against The Wall When The Revolution Comes use apostrophe’s , plus for half a paragraph in the middle it’s impossible to tell which country you’re in. Clearly this is a product of trying to write when I was sick and very tired. I’ll try not to do it again.
A non-travel related silliness
In one of my previous blogs, about Yogya, I used the word
qiblah. This of course is the word for the direction in which Muslims face when they pray, ie the direction of Mecca. Shortly afterwards I stayed in a room (I think in J.B.) which has this marked on the ceiling. When I stayed in Bangkok last year one of the places I stayed at also had this marked on the ceiling, I assume this is as a courtesy to Muslim guests, so they don’t accidentally face the wrong way and say God’s name backwards and find that they have to become atheists, or something.
Wat Arun - temple of the dawn ?
I think this is a chinese thing where you roll the ball (inside his mouth) for good luck. The problem here is that it was spelt “kiblat”. This is the sort of thing which causes bloodshed amongst scrabble players. I understand the q/k thing (I assume it’s pronounced with a sound somewhat between a “qu” and a “k”, as in “Qatar” or “Quran”) but I don’t know what the “t” is doing there. If you try to use it in a friendly game of scrabble with your friends, you’ll get arguments like this:
Person 1: “What? Can’t have a Q without a U. No Q without a U. No Q without a U ....””
Person 2: “I accept the Q, it’s just the H I’m worried about, I think it ends in a T”
Person 3: “I think in English it’s spelt with a K - I saw it spelt with a K in Bangkok”
Person 1: “No Q without a U ... .does not compute ... .kaboom”
Person 2: “But it’s not pronounced ‘kilbah’ or ‘kiblat’, it’s pronounced ‘qiblat’.”
etc. Until the police find you the next day having all stabbed each other except for person 1 who’s still sitting in a corner rocking back and forth muttering about “no q without a u”, his qi
Ferry
Ferry crossing the river Mae Nam Chao Phraya to Wat Arun (temple of the dawn). This is the main river through Bangkok. quietly slipping away like a quiet mountaineer slipping down a cwm.
For the serious scrabblers, SOWPODS (as much as I can work out, they don’t seem to have their wordlists available on the web any more?) allow KIBLAH, KIBLA and QIBLA. I’m taking my spelling from Wikipedia which redirects “kiblah” and “qibla” to “qiblah”.
I see again that Cambodia and Thailand are shooting at each other over that ancient temple which someone forgot about when they drew the border. I don’t think that’ll make any difference to me, as the crossing I will go through is nowhere near that trouble zone. From what I remember, the trouble is that both countries of course have a cultural/historical relationship to the temple, as they both were part of the Khmer civilisation. I think there’s something like the temple is in the territory of one country, but the pathway to it is in the other country.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.104s; Tpl: 0.019s; cc: 11; qc: 26; dbt: 0.0338s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
