Blogs from Tajikistan, Asia - page 13

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Asia » Tajikistan » Fan Mountains August 1st 2010

The Tajik cognac still has it's effect on me,still a bit groggy I forced myself out of bed to get ready for a big day, I start my 4 day trek in the Fan mountains but first I have to buy food in the bazaar, I took a minivan marshrustka to the bazaar, It took me awhile to figure out what to buy, what I need, I started at the fruit section and bought the delicious mini pears from my favorite stall, this shy girl wanted to know my name but she can't express it in English, finally after giving me my change she pointed to herself and announced her name, so then I get it, nice to meet you, Gil in her broken English, all the while the whole fruit section watching us charade, they ... read more
Alaudin pass and lakes
2nd Turursh
Garm lake

Asia » Tajikistan » Penjikent July 29th 2010

From the Acted homestay we took a cab to the taxi stand across some cement factory, about 15 minutes from where we were staying, the cab ride was 15 somonis, lots of traffic police as usual, in almost every corner, and they are like sharks, stopping cars at every opportunity we saw yesterday how they blatantly accept bribes in the street, it's ridiculous how often vehicles here gets stopped by these sharks. We got to the taxi stand and immediately we got mobbed by the taxi drivers, the doors of the taxi flung open and our arms got yanked out of the taxi beckoning us to come with them, i left the negotiations to Tapio, everyone wants our business, we wanted to go with the car that goes right away, with people already in them so ... read more
Marguzor lake 1
Penjikent bazaar
Penjikent ancient town

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe July 26th 2010

Dushanbe (Tajik: Душанбе, Dushanbe; Dyushambe until 1929, Stalinabad until 1961), population 679,400 people (2008 est.), is the capital and largest city of Tajikistan. Dushanbe means "Monday" in Tajik, and the name reflects the fact that the city grew on the site of a village that originally was a popular Monday marketplace. (WIKI INFO) For the last month or so I have been travelling with Russ and now we split as he takes on Uzbekistan while I have another week to chill in Kyrg. I had the intention of spending some time in Arslanbob, near the town of Jalalabad, I went online and had a look at things to do, the place sounds promising, walnut forests, waterfalls, great hiking opportunities but the problem was majority of LP thorn tree forum reviews on the CBT there was bad ... read more
Dushanbe
Dushanbe
Dushanbe

Asia » Tajikistan » Murgab July 4th 2010

Flip-flops and the Pamirs don't go together according to some, but I say there is no better combination. And to prove the point I have been using them in abundance while I visited the region. Most people called me crazy and if I had died and instantly preserved I am sure I would have caused quite a conundrum to future archaeologists. I can imagine the conversation going on: 'We thought these were mountains 2 million years ago, but here is a man in shorts and flip-flops, which would indicate the presence of a sea?' But of course I didn't die, instead I strutted around with purposeful strides through some of the most stunning sceneries I have seen. First we headed up Bartang valley, and with we I mean Danielle, Ricky and I, though only I was ... read more
Bartang Valley
Bartang Valley
Bartang Valley

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog June 16th 2010

Yes it has been a long and winding road so far through Tajikistan. It can't be helped, all roads in Tajikistan are long and winding. This is simply due to the fact that the country consists mainly of mountains. Those winding roads are unfortunately for the most part also abominably bad, making the trips through the mountains a hard slog on the bum! But this is amply compensated for by the breathtaking scenery. Well enough of that. I am a bit tired at the moment so excuse me if the tale I will tell is a bit boring. To start with the border crossing into Tajikistan where we were given a grand goodbye by the friendly Uzbek customs. You may not be allowed to take out Uzbek money, but instead they loaded our bags with fresh ... read more
Khujand
Khujand
Khujand

Asia » Tajikistan » Murgab May 23rd 2010

Here we are setting out from Khorog again on our second attempt to get to Murghab. This time we're taking the Pamir Highway, built by the Soviets in 1931-1934 to facilitate troop transport into the remote region. It was off-limits to travellers until recently and its still a pretty remote road mostly used by Chinese trucks. We pass a couple of large truck compounds on our way. The first 70 miles or so is through the green Gunt Valley (sorry - no photos, they have gone missing) and then we start slowly and steadily climbing upto the Koi-Tezek Pass (4272m) and the Pamir plateau. At the top there's lots of the snow and the temperatures drop right down. But its nothing like the 'muddy pass' the other day, the road surface is good and we manage ... read more
Khorog market
wacky, art deco Khorog apartment block
the first car to travel the Pamir Highway

Asia » Tajikistan » Langar May 21st 2010

Here we are happily riding through Tajikistan waving at people in Afghanistan. They are not far away, just on the other side of the river less than 100m away. Mind it looks a lot poorer in Afghanistan. We have electricity cables running along our side, brick houses and, obviously, a motorable road. On the Afghan side there's no signs of electricity, its mud houses and the 'road' is just a donkey track - but what a donkey track. It clings to the side of the mountain following the contours and where there's not even enough flat space for a donkey track they have built out the most amazing dry stone wall to support the track. It goes on for miles and miles and miles. Between Kalaikhum and Khorog the scenery is amazing. We are right deep ... read more
the road from Kalaikhum to Khorog
a spot of routine maintenance required
a 'road' on the Tajik side - a donkey track on the Afghan side

Asia » Tajikistan » Kalikum May 17th 2010

No sooner are we over the border and into Tajikistan than we are off route again - yes I know, we should have learnt our lesson by now. This time the expedition was successful and at Hissar, only 5km off-route, we find the gateway of an 18th century fortress. Why was this worth the effort? because it appears on the back of the 20 Somani note. We have a whole days R&R in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. Its a strange place which seems to consist of one main street with a few grand pre-soviet buildings interspersed with drab concrete buildings and lots and lots of parks. The guide book describes “pastel coloured buildings and tree lined cafes”, that conjurers up a totally different image to what I found. It seems too small and quite to ... read more
Ayni Opera and Ballet Theatre, Dushanbe
taking the northern route to Kalaikhum
taking the northern route to Kalaikhum

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe May 15th 2010

So I have ventured South for a brief forray into the Persian sphere of influence and of course have been met with unfathomable hospitality, all the mulberries I can eat and a sense of comple incomprehension as to what I am doing there! -------------------- When travelling to Tajikistan down the remote Pamir Highway it is suggested by locals not to hitch as trucks do not come every day, maybe you may spend weeks waiting. Of course if you do then it is less advisable to walk out of Sary Tash, the last settlement of notable size and whilst waiting for a truck walk up to the military listening station/artillary depot (think Memwith Hill) and ask for some tea and jam sandwiches. If the guard walks off to find out, then do not run off at full ... read more
The Pamir - Alichur
Harford-Cross's of the World Unite - HO!
The Postcard Worthy- Geisev Valley

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe May 14th 2010

Having had our fix of Silk Road culture we now head south into the Zerafshan Mountains onto good motorcycling road, sweeping up and down the green mountainside. We pass through some tin roofed villages and they have obviously got a job lot of paint as one village will have blue roofs, the next green, the next red etc. At one point the sky ahead goes very, very black and we have thunder as we ride through a snow storm. It doesn't last long and soon we are back in the sunshine riding along picturesque valleys. We make one brief diversion at Shakhrisabz - Timur's birthplace which was once grander than Samarkand. Now its just a few ruins but what's nice is that they are un-restored.. Ak-Saray was Timur's summer palace but all that's left is the ... read more
back on winding mountain roads
Ak-Saray - Timur
the tilework must have been quite spectacular once




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