Blogs from Tajikistan, Asia

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If you’re wondering whether the Pamir Mountains, the 3rd highest mountain range in the world, are the right destination for your trip, you should read the following lines. It’s been almost two years since I travelled to the Pamirs in Central Asia. The group was small and consisting of avid travellers. All were happy and kind during the first days of the trip. That was until we reached the High Pamirs. Once we were at altitudes above 3,500 m, the living conditions became rough. Everyone, travelling to this part of the world, should come prepared for both the mental and physical challenges of the journey. To my surprise, a large part of our group came totally unprepared. My travel companions Dave & MJ and url=../../Asia/Tajikistan/Gorn... read more
Bumpy Road At High Altitude In The Pamirs
Children Dancing To Traditional Kyrgyz Music
Chinese Temple On The Silk Road

Asia » Tajikistan » Fan Mountains August 25th 2018

Day 5 25 August Zimtut Village (1910m) to Chukurak Lake (2350m) Wake early feeling average at best, no appetite. Breakfast arrives- bread and condensed milk (good), but then more breakfast arrives- oily egg/onion/tomato dish. Oh dear... Head up the hill with the 2 little girls to try and walk it off. There are a lot of donkeys arriving on the hill below me from the valley, they are all laden with massive dried grass loads and being driven by small kids with big sticks. Load our donkey then, like breakfast another one arrives. We have 2 donkeys, I knew we were oversupplied :). Finally 3.5 hrs after waking up we are off. Donkey 1 is a good donkey, Donkey 2- not so much- he's naughty, flatulent and loud. It's hilly from the get go, lots of ... read more
Time To Leave
Fully Loaded

Asia » Tajikistan » Fan Mountains August 24th 2018

Day 4 Collection time is 0900, awake really early, still have cramps and diarrhea. Do the whole Azithromycin, Buscopan, Gastrostop thing. Feel v apprehensive given how yuck I feel. Having said that, I still get completely packed up- my backpack plus a bag to leave at Marians, in record time. Manage an egg with some bread and jam. Buscopan, my friend... By the time Mohammed, my guide, arrives I am feeling ok- 5/10 ok. Today is going to be light and mostly driving so fingers crossed it'll be ok. But first, a trip to the supermarket. Mohammed is 23 (same age as my youngest son). The driver, Joomart, probably 30's. The jeep, green and sturdy, not sure. Saidali (owner of travel company) calls- there has been a change of plan, Mohammed will be my guide for ... read more
Spotted in Supermarket
Spotted in Supermarket
Bee Keepers Kettle

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe August 23rd 2018

Day 3 NO, I am not better. Had a horrible night, abdo cramps +++ Loaded up now on Buscopan, Gastrostop and Panadol. Skip breakfast. Feel revolting. Go downstairs anyway and have a cup of tea (having triple washed my cup- discretely). The Polish girl is gone, there is an Italian girl this morning- she is covered from head to toe in bed bug bites and is on antihistamines and antibiotics (I tell her I know a good pharmacy nearby should she need to stock up - hahaha...). She picked them up somewhere on a homestay on the Pamir Highway. Two Scottish girls appear, they are heading off on the Pamir Highway that morning- they carefully note down the Italian girls homestay places so as NOT to stay there. Next comes the elusive Marian, she asks me ... read more
Rudaki Park
Typical Breadshop
Annoying Way To Spend In Dushanbe

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe August 22nd 2018

Day 2 Dushanbe Fast Facts Population 679 400 Elevation 800m Settlement- 5th century BC Dushanbe evolved in 1929 with establishment of a railway, aka Stalinabad- capital of new Soviet Tajik republic 1950's back to Dushanbe (which means Monday), Tajik immigrants from Uzbekistan, German POW's and Russian exiles 1990's civil war with the fall of the Soviet Union 2002 peace prevails, city transforms Wake up after not enough sleep with a cold, unfortunate timing but I can deal with it... My room in the daylight- big, white, spacious, old Persian rugs, big puffy curtains (hmm). white linen, navy privacy curtain into small ante room and bathroom, all very spotless, very, very spotless. I love it (with the exception of the puffy curtains), art on the walls-local eurasian, r... read more
Marion's
Tried And Tested Broom
Architecture of Dushanbe

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe August 21st 2018

Day 1 Warning- this blog post will give you no insights whatsoever into travelling in Tajikistan, it's just my personal start full of inane detail. Read on at your peril.... Up at 03:00, out the door 03:30. Win 1- Big, heavy unwieldy pack is checked all the way through to Dushanbe, no need to reclaim in Dubai. Win 2- Qantas Club let me in at 04:30 (despite my Emirates boarding pass). Win 3- Window seat with 2 empty seats next to me. Then I lose. Having gloated about not getting the virus that ran through our household last week, at the 5 hour mark of the flight my throat is tickling. Slightly worried. By the time we get to Dubai I have a full on killer headache. I had pre-booked a room at the Holiday Inn ... read more
Breaky
Empty Row
Blurry Airport Departure Shot

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe August 20th 2018

This trip came about when a friend (Terry, met in Iran in 2014) sent me photos of his trip incorporating the "Stans", specifically Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It only took about 5 minutes to once again shelve Mongolia and completely switch destinations. I knew nothing at all, in any shape or form, about Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan, I'm not so sure that I'd even heard of them before. Immediately I took to scouring blog sites (like this- Shane the Travelling Camel, Dancing Dave and Dave and Merry Jo in particular), independent blogs (The Adventures of Lill Nicki), info boards, forums, TA, IndyGuide, Caravanistan and Lonely Planet (etc, etc, etc.....) to construct an itinerary. It was a tough one as there were absolutely endless places to see, mountains to climb and things to do in these 2 incredible countries. ... read more


It's been a crazy 24 hours, after being denied access to the lounge at Dubai T2 I had a dispute with the girl in the cafe who want to charge me 5 bucks more to replace the dairy with almond milk. The short but uncomfortable flight allowed no opportunity to sleep so when I reached immigration first in an empty hall I was feeling positive only to be sent away to fill out an entry card, no pens of course so by the time I managed to borrow one and complete the card there were 3 hundred or so people pushing and shoving in the lines. I finally got out of there and was at my hotel by 4 but couldn't sleep, eventually I must have gone under as my alarm went off at 8am and ... read more
National Museum
National Museum
National Museum

Asia » Tajikistan » Dushanbe January 12th 2018

Ciao, sono Emomali Rahmon, presidente a vita del Tajikistan. Nel mio paese non si fuma per strada e non si puo' avere la barba. Non abbiamo buoni ospedali.... read more
Il presidente su un cavallo
I meloni del presidente
Il presidente pesca una trota e ride come un ebete


FACES OF TAJIKISTAN...the Cultural Divide. I still shake my head in disbelief this could happen...but it did. Then when it became known...and I made it clear to them that they had disgraced the whole group by doing so...the protagonists tried to change the facts and attempted to justify their appalling behaviour as if it was to help the local people to improve their lot. But pigs fly and wind is wind. And those that know what happened...know it happened...and no conniving or mis-truths changes that. QED. What a delight to travel with the Travel Camel again...our Mischief on the Mekong being entre...main course travelling from Dushanbe to the Afghan border...hugging cliff roads along the Panj River...daring us to dip our toes in so it could attempt to bite them off...then ascending into the High Pamir for ... read more




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