Blogs from Tajikistan, Asia


If you’re wondering whether the Pamir Mountains, the 3rd highest mountain range in the world, are the right destination for your trip, you should read the following lines. It’s been almost two years since I travelled to the Pamirs in Central Asia. The group was small and consisting of avid travellers. All were happy and kind during the first days of the trip. That was until we reached the High Pamirs. Once we were at altitudes above 3,500 m, the living conditions became rough. Everyone, travelling to this part of the world, should come prepared for both the mental and physical challenges of the journey. To my surprise, a large part of our group came totally unprepared. My travel companions Dave & MJ and url=../../Asia/Tajikistan/Gorn... read more
Bumpy Road At High Altitude In The Pamirs
Children Dancing To Traditional Kyrgyz Music
Chinese Temple On The Silk Road

Day 18 Alichur to Bashgumbez to Ak Zoo Lake Yurt Stay Sleeping Altitude 4210m, 35km driving distance. Snow fall on the distant Pamirs greets me this morning, very scenic. A solo breakfast in the little kitchen room while the Dutch guys are having their breakfast in the lounge. My bf is huge(!) and consists of tea, coffee, butter, yoghurt, cream, 3 fried eggs, bread and jams- so delicious- I wonder what the Dutch are having, maybe something different to me? I seem to be getting amazing attention. I gave some gifts to Aunty yesterday as well as a tip (she waved the money away but I leave it with her anyway, she seemed really happy with the clothing, I had an extra merino tee and long sleeve tee that I thought would be great through ... read more
Farewell To The Family

Day 17 Rest Day in Alichur (3881m) Aunty (Tamara) brings me rice with salty milk, 3 boiled eggs, bread, cherry jam and yoghurt for breakfast. M and B turn up later after farewelling Mohammed's Mum, who is a teacher, off to school. A decision is firmed up- we condense Days 16 and 17 into 1 in order to take a day off here in Alichur. I think it's a good plan: 1. Gives me another day at 3881m for acclimatisation 2. I can have a shower (!!) in the spotlessly clean bathroom and potentially wash my hair (joy), although I have been firmly instructed not to do so until after lunch when it will be a bit warmer "as I will catch a cold". 3. I can wash clothes. 4. I can catch up on writing ... read more
Central Stove
Tamara's House

Asia » Tajikistan » Murgab September 5th 2018

Day 16 Marjanay Jailoo (Summer Pasture Spot) to Alichur, via The Hot Springs Near Bulunkul Lake Sleeping altitude 3881m A big day- you've got 76 photos to look at! And a lot to read! The Four Egg Day We sat down after the morning's walk from our pasture land campsite of the night before to our lunch time picnic of 4 boiled eggs. Four cracked, seen better days, boiled eggs. What preceded the 4 boiled eggs? I'll backtrack... Getting up with the sun this morning the cows were out and eating the sparse grass, Pharlap and Mustang were also eating the sparse grass. The stream nearby was running to wash last nights dinner dishes (although I suspect the cows, Pharlap and Mustang may have provided a pre-wash) and a cloud lay over the mountains- the first ... read more
Breakfast of Champions
Fully Loaded

Day 15 Chadbar Valley (Somewhere on the Gunt River) to Marjanay Jailoo (Summer Pasture Spot) Sleeping altitude 3840m Highest point altitude 3940m Feel utterly fatigued this morning, really sluggish. Initially I wonder if it's the river water that we are washing everything in but ultimately decide it's probably altitude related. I have absolutely no appetite for breakfast (like in Nepal as we were ascending), but make myself eat something as we have a big day ahead. We are aiming to camp past Yachikul Lake, it involves an overall 400m further altitude gain. Yashikul is a freshwater lake in the Upper Gunt Valley, 3600 hectares with a max depth of 52m and is in the "Bulunkul and Yashikul Lakes and Mountains Important Bird Area". The area is a combo of grassland, desert, wetland and rock habitats. Birds ... read more

Day 14 Guisimo Home Stay, Bachor to my tent in a spot by the Gunt River Sleeping altitude 3523m 07:00 I'm ready as per plan, no one else is (great sleep btw). 07:40 I'm still ready, so is breakfast- rice with milk, Nescafe, M and B have milk choi with bread and butter in it. 09:38 This is so funny, the reason we are still waiting is that the donkey man is trying to find his escaped donkey. Apparently it went AWOL in the night but it has been found... across in the main village. The other major delay is that our leaking gas bottle is still leaking and given that we are on the trail for 3 days we need it. B is attempting to fix it with duct tape and liquid nails. Should be ... read more
The New Toilet
More Door Porn

Asia » Tajikistan » Langar September 2nd 2018

Day 13 Yamg to Langar to Bachor Driving Distance- 270km Sleeping altitude 3370m Highest point altitude -4360m Take a walk through the village this morning, first to the site of the stone pillar that the Sufi mystic, Muabara Kadam Wakhani (there are multiple spellings of everything here, you will see the K and Q are pretty interchangeable), fashioned into a solar calendar. We then reach the museum which is a reconstructed Wakhan house, each of the rooms displaying various artifacts, books, poems, letters and display boards. The usual TJS 10 admission (you should all know this is AUD $1.24 by now). It's a fascinating stop and the caretakers are proud of their heritage. I keep wishing I could spend a full day in each of these villages. I also really like the way the walls and ... read more
Doors To Rooms
Home Stay Yard

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog September 1st 2018

Day 12 Khorog to Yamg Driving Distance- 207km Sleeping altitude 2500m Highest point altitude - 2770m at Bibi Fatima Hot Springs I'm out of the room before 0630- the breakfast table is set- yoghurt, semolina, cakes, coffee, bread and apricot jam. Not sure where M and B are, maybe they aren't used to their tourists being early. We don't leave until nearly 0730 and then drive around for another 1/2 hour looking for gas, only to end up back at the gas station next to the hotel. Regardless, I feel pretty excited for today- we are about to begin travelling through the the Tajik Wakhan Valley. Today is also the first day back at school for the Tajik kids. There are kids everywhere in shiny new uniforms. All of the girls are kitted out with ENORMOUS ... read more
First Flat Of The Trip
Tajik Schoolgirls
Garm-e-Chashma Hot Springs

Asia » Tajikistan » Khorog August 31st 2018

Day 11 3rd Village Jizeu/Gizeiv, Bartang Valley to Khorog Driving Distance- 60km Sleeping altitude 2200m Woke up early, chilly out but toasty in those quilts. Such a beautiful place to sleep! Took a wander down to the river, light was pretty special. Had breakfast with the Israelis, they run an organic flower farm and are well travelled. We share rice with milk, jams, tea and bread. Mohammed and I take off for a 5km return hike to the next village and lake . It's mostly a gentle grassy uphill walk, whenever there's an uphill though I get out of breath really quickly, it's annoying. Lots of little streams, trees, flowers and bird life once again. Wander around the lake for a while before backtracking. By the time we are back at Munira's the early chill has ... read more
Early Morning

Asia » Tajikistan » Kalikum August 30th 2018

Day 10 Kalai-Kum (Qal'ai Khumb) to 3rd Village Jizeu/Gizeiv, Bartang Valley Driving Distance- 200km Sleeping altitude 2500m Up early and repack from my big backpack into my small backpack for an overnighter in a home stay in Jizeu/Gizeiv Village in the Bartang Valley. The courtyard by day is even prettier than last night. Breakfast arrives- a rice porridge with salty milk, cherries, bread, biscuits, sweets and condensed milk and apricot tea. I love this stuff! M and B rock down 20 mins later and we're completely out of there by 0830. Back up the lane way and a quick "Orbit" Supermarket stop to buy sweets and chewing gum to share. We resume on the bumpy, dusty road across the river from Afghanistan, Gigantic looming hills and cliff faces. Afghanistan alternates between mountains/landslides and green oases with ... read more
Houses Across The River

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