Blogs from Tajikistan, Asia

Another quick Trekkup trip. This was a makeup trip for the one I missed a month before with stupid Covid. I was a bit wary of this one - work was killing me, I was so tired, and the thought of a long hike in the hot mountains was a bit daunting. But since my last meeting on Friday went well I decided to suck it up and go. We met up at Terminal 2 at the airport; I had driven and parked because I had an early meeting Monday morning upon return. I realized there was no group leader on this trip even though there were 14 of us. However, T said the guide was very knowledgeable and would be able to handle it himself. He was right - Saidbek was great! The flight was ... read more

If you’re wondering whether the Pamir Mountains, the 3rd highest mountain range in the world, are the right destination for your trip, you should read the following lines. It’s been almost two years since I travelled to the Pamirs in Central Asia. The group was small and consisting of avid travellers. All were happy and kind during the first days of the trip. That was until we reached the High Pamirs. Once we were at altitudes above 3,500 m, the living conditions became rough. Everyone, travelling to this part of the world, should come prepared for both the mental and physical challenges of the journey. To my surprise, a large part of our group came totally unprepared. My travel companions Dave & MJ and url=../../Asia/Tajikistan/Gorno-Ba... read more

Day 17 Rest Day in Alichur (3881m) Aunty (Tamara) brings me rice with salty milk, 3 boiled eggs, bread, cherry jam and yoghurt for breakfast. M and B turn up later after farewelling Mohammed's Mum, who is a teacher, off to school. A decision is firmed up- we condense Days 16 and 17 into 1 in order to take a day off here in Alichur. I think it's a good plan: 1. Gives me another day at 3881m for acclimatisation 2. I can have a shower (!!) in the spotlessly clean bathroom and potentially wash my hair (joy), although I have been firmly instructed not to do so until after lunch when it will be a bit warmer "as I will catch a cold". 3. I can wash clothes. 4. I can catch up on writing ... read more

Day 15 Chadbar Valley (Somewhere on the Gunt River) to Marjanay Jailoo (Summer Pasture Spot) Sleeping altitude 3840m Highest point altitude 3940m Feel utterly fatigued this morning, really sluggish. Initially I wonder if it's the river water that we are washing everything in but ultimately decide it's probably altitude related. I have absolutely no appetite for breakfast (like in Nepal as we were ascending), but make myself eat something as we have a big day ahead. We are aiming to camp past Yachikul Lake, it involves an overall 400m further altitude gain. Yashikul is a freshwater lake in the Upper Gunt Valley, 3600 hectares with a max depth of 52m and is in the "Bulunkul and Yashikul Lakes and Mountains Important Bird Area". The area is a combo of grassland, desert, wetland and rock habitats. Birds ... read more

Day 13 Yamg to Langar to Bachor Driving Distance- 270km Sleeping altitude 3370m Highest point altitude -4360m Take a walk through the village this morning, first to the site of the stone pillar that the Sufi mystic, Muabara Kadam Wakhani (there are multiple spellings of everything here, you will see the K and Q are pretty interchangeable), fashioned into a solar calendar. We then reach the museum which is a reconstructed Wakhan house, each of the rooms displaying various artifacts, books, poems, letters and display boards. The usual TJS 10 admission (you should all know this is AUD $1.24 by now). It's a fascinating stop and the caretakers are proud of their heritage. I keep wishing I could spend a full day in each of these villages. I also really like the way the walls and ... read more