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Published: July 20th 2014
CHINA BORDERLANDS. DAY 1, WEDNESDAY 9.7.14
Distance: 54 Kms SubT. 4,900 Kms Bal 7,525 Kms
Road Condition: generally highway.
Weather: mild temp. Cooler start then. Hot in afternoon.
Time in Saddle: 2 hrs Av Speed: av. 27 kph.
Elevation: 700 m : Decent little M
Calories burned : 2800
36 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 132. 45 Kms.
Today we officially left China. Bused to lunch as we only had 2 hours to get through immigration 11-1. So TL thought best to bus to lunch then ride to immigration then on to campsite.
At immigration had to unload vehicles off truck to go through an unwatched scanner then load them back onto bus. Seemingly solely a bureaucratic function. All went smoothly and now officially out of China, however border gate is still 140kms west. We pass through it on Friday.
Arrived camp, still dusty and deserted. (pun).
Warm but cooler start. Now at 1500 m. Supposedly a big day tomorrow. Now the long wait to dinner and darkness.
The cook worked all afternoon and turned out a nourishing
meal, as tomorrow we ride about 114kms and climb 2600 m., before stopping 7 km short of the Krygzystan border, which closes early and opens late.
Just before going to bed at 9.30 my tyre let out steam, hole at valve stem, necessitating a tube change before bed. It was a hot day, although at the time the temperature had cooled probably 8 degrees. Still better than just prior to departure!
CHINA BORDERLANDS. DAY 2, THURSDAY 10.7.14
Distance: 110 Kms SubT. 5010 Kms Bal 7,415 Kms
Road Condition: highway. VG
Weather: mild temp. Cooler start then.10C at 2971m, Warmer in afternoon.
Time in Saddle: 6.5 hrs Av Speed: av. 17 kph.
Elevation: 3553 m : Decent little M
Calories burned : 5,000+
37 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 135.40 Kms.
Very poor sleep, about 1 hour, no idea why. Sun still up at 11pm. Will change once we cross border tomorrow. Will go back 2 hours which will make mornings and evenings better, but perhaps we may be cycling in the hotter part of the day !!!
Fantastic
scenery today. The mountains were gold, purple, red, blue, green, snow tipped and dusty clay. I think one of our most scenic days. It was a day of climbing, but the gradient was reasonably kind or I might be a little fitter. Not to exhausting which surprised me after the poor sleep.
Tomorrow we cross into Krygzystan. The border gate opens at 10am. We are about 7 Kms from it, so perhaps a sleep in, haha. Apparently bureaucracy can take about 5 hour. Time will tell. So a short day has been planned to accommodate time issues.
KRYGZYSTAN BORDER. FRIDAY 11.7.14
Distance: 52 Kms SubT. 5062 Kms Bal 7,362 Kms
Road Condition: highway. Ok
Weather: mild temp. Much Cooler now at 3200 metres
Time in Saddle: 3 hrs Av Speed: av. 17 kph.
Elevation: 3553 m : Decent 1000 M
Calories burned : 4,000+
38 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 133.21 Kms.
Today we broke camp in China, then set up camp in the afternoon in Krygzystan.
The scenery on leaving camp was spectacular, the start of the
Pamir range was high, imposing and snow covered. The lesser mountains were stark and naked of trees. There colour in the morning light was spectacular. It was a cooler start, even though we left later. The border posts didn't open until 10.30. Once negotiating immigration, we farewelled our Chinese guides and cycled off to the Krygzystan camp whilst we waited our trucks to pass through customs. Immediately the people looked and were different. Very friendly and happy, laughing. Facial features were those of nomadic mountain people, similar in some respects to Nepalese looking people.
The scenery in 50 Kms has changed dramatically, from naked dusty mountains to Rocky Mountains and green grassed valleys. Snow capped peaks abound and a storm threatened, however moved down another valley.
Immigration went smoothly, very bureaucratic on both sides but a fraction of the five hours it took TDA last tour.
The camp site is 30 Kms from the border up a huge climb. I could say the climb nearly passed unnoticed as the scenery was superb. I was cycling much of it at 6 kph as it was very steep. The road was very quiet,
maybe a vehicle per hour. The contrasts couldn't be more stark.
Our camp tonight is beautiful. Our first grassed camp, shared with local nomadic Krygzys and their children, horses, sheep and dogs. A number of families, each with a tribe of young children who were very inquisitive and assisted each of us in our tent construction, very knowledgeably. Loved having their photos taken. Could readily stay here tomorrow, BUT the tour beckons! Toilet will be interesting as their is no privacy at all!
SARI TASH. SATURDAY 12.7.14
Distance: 47 Kms SubT. 5139 Kms Bal 7,315 Kms
Road Condition: highway. Ok
Weather: mild temp. Much Cooler riding now at 3200 metres
Time in Saddle: 2.5 hrs Av Speed: av. 22.5 kph.
Elevation: 1000 m : Decent 800 M
Calories burned : 4,000+
39 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 131.76 Kms.
Spectacular scenery abounds. Krygzystan is called the Switzerland of Asia, for good reason, the peaks are over 7000 metres, deep in snow, wide green valleys, dotted with nomadic families and their horses, sheep and cows. Apparently they truck the livestock down to
lower altitude during the winter months. Today climbed to3970 m. In Tajikistan we cross 4 passes at 4500 m. This was a good test. Need to control the breathing as high altitude causes breathlessness and headache.
The horses are used for round ups, and milk. The milk has a strong flavour. The farmers also make cheese, butter and cream. They were very friendly, coming to camp with cream samplers.
Most sheep are black wooled as opposed to our white sheep. They also shear the wool with scissors in small clumps.
Out of camp, we turned left and started climbing 700 metres. The scenery to the left was high snow covered peaks. My hill climbing technique is simple, eyes off the peak to be climbed, head down, and count pedal rotations to 100, then start again. Counted to over 1000 on the first hill. It also took my mind off breathing.
Arrived at Sari TASH, larger than expected. Camp site good, an Asian toilet, not the side of the road!!, water for a bird bath, a novelty, good views and a flat site. Need to be careful with sunburn,
as clear blue sky and high altitude may mean sunburn.
Ate dinner in the Yurt, prepared by locals, soup and a slice dish. Tasty but inadequate.
US$ 10. Overpriced. Then the long night.
SARI TASH REST DAY. SUNDAY 13.7.14
Today's rest day was really about allowing the cook to travel to OSH to purchase food supplies for the next week.
Sat around camp, had the brakes and gears checked by the bike mechanic to ensure all in order for the next 10 days of mountains.
Rode around town, really just a local farming village with little supplies. Hopefully next meals will be more nutritious to fuel the hill climbing.
Both lunch and dinner were today more satisfying than yesterday, so I have refuelled. That seems to me to be the best way to describe eating. The food is plain, much bread, bland soups with a few pieces of meat, cabbage, and rice. Won't recognise tasty food when I next see it!!!!
I have take a photo of the week's distance guide ahead of us, the climbs and descents
total about 5000 metres each. The distances are shorter than we have been riding, but we have the added complication of elevation, cold and high altitude and the possible effect upon breathing and stamina. There is always the bus hopefully, although looking at a few riders, the demand for space might be high.
SARI TASH TO GRASS CAMP. MONDAY 14.7.14
Distance: 23. Kms SubT. 5162 Kms Bal 7,292 Kms
Road Condition: Country Road Ok
Weather: mild temp. Much Cooler riding now at 3200 metres
Time in Saddle: 1.15 hrs Av Speed: av. 22.5 kph.
Elevation: 300 m : Decent 100 M
Calories burned : 2,000
40 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 129.02 Kms.
Today was a short ride from Sari TASH. No real explanation for short distance, but suspect two purposes- acclimatising to altitude and distance to passport control. Tomorrow we have a huge day in distance and altitude. Highest altitude on trip 4664 m. Some are being affected by altitude sickness- headache, shortness of breath and dizziness. Hasn't struck me to date, hopefully won't. A matter of pacing myself. Apparently level of fitness
is not a determiner of avoiding it.
The scenery is exceptional, I know I am repeating myself, but it is sublime. Open fields with green grass, eidleveiss, and Akum- kakum ( dandelion), surrounded by snow capped peaks. We depart Krygyzistan tomorrow for Tajikistan. Temperatures are cool. Told on tomorrow's journey last trip, TDA experienced snow, storm and hail. The weather can change dramatically. We have been told to expect all weather conditions!!
We were visited by a local family. Brother(18) and sister (14). Spoke some English so showed them photos on iPad I had taken of them. Subsequently they invited me to visit their home for lunch. I dragged Brian along as support. Went to their yurt about 1km away. Went inside, lined with blankets, with a stove. Blankets on floor for seating. Met mother and father who were very proud of children. Son studies Biology at university at OSH, wants to be a biology teacher, sister goes to school at Bishkek ( capital) studies English, Russian, mandarin and French, spoke good English. Ate home made bread, cow's cream and a sugar type substance, called a "cheeseburger" . Ok. Also drank Mare's milk, an
acquired taste, like a runny sour yogurt. Most relaxed atmosphere. Then visited by family friend from next yurt. He looked like a Chinese Buddha. Very cheery fellow. Insisted we also visit his yurt for afternoon tea, similar to lunch. Met his wife who showed how milk was stored ( in the skin of a goat) , and cream made. Then watched as she milked the mare. They hobble the horse by binding its front leg, bring a foal to the mare to bring in the milk, then move foal and start milking, similar to a cow's action. A great afternoon. Will email photos to daughter's email in Bishkek. An unexpected great afternoon. Apparently the family move to this area near Sari TASH each May, June and July to graze livestock, over 300 sheep+ horses and cows! then return to OSH, with animals, for remainder of year, colder months. Kids go off to Uni and school then.
The whole in the top of the yurt is decorated in all Krygyzistan yurts with the emblem on the flag. The family was Muslim and the Koran on the bookshelf narked the direction of Mecca.
KARAKUL LAKE TUESDAY
15.7.14
Distance: 62 Kms SubT. 5224 Kms Bal 7,230 Kms
Road Condition: Country Road . Pavement ok, GRAVEL Horrendous.
Weather: mild temp. Much Cooler riding now at 3750 metres
Time in Saddle: 3 hrs Av Speed: av. 20.5 kph.
Elevation: 1350 m : Decent 300 M
Calories burned : 5,000+
41 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 129.02 Kms.
Today was a very hard day. Cycled to Tajik border where we waited for 2 hours, getting cold. Got in truck halfway as I found gravel beyond my management skill ( 10 km). Road again from border. So bad it caused metal fatigue in my back luggage rack causing it to break and drop off, luckily avoiding my rear wheel and major drama. Also speedo stopped working and water bottle was shaken off bike.
Today was a very difficult day. Repetitive I know. But it reinforces my view - WHAT AM
I DOING HERE!!!!
Karakul lake is beautiful, sharp blue against the brown hills. Camp back to Chinese basic. Very dusty, wonder whether I or my clothes will ever get clean. Can see
I will be disposing of most things in Istanbul, if they make it that far.
Tomorrow more of the same, will be camping at 4500 m. Very cold. After tomorrow's pass at 4665m, we have three more 4000+ passes to cross. What Was I Thinking!!
Time back another hour today. Now 19.12, in bed and hopeful of early sleep. Breakfast at 6.30 which means up at 5.15 to pull down tent, etc. - gruelling. I AM TOUGH HAHA!!
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMP. 4600 m. WEDNESDAY 16.7.14
Distance: 38 Kms cycling; 12 Kms walking. SubT. 5274 Kms Bal 7,180 Kms
Road Condition: Country Road . Pavement ok, GRAVEL Deep corrugation so decided to walk
Weather: mild temp. Much Cooler cold after 4 pm
Time in Saddle: 1.5 hrs Av Speed: av. 24.5kph. Time Walking 2 hrs. Speed 6kph in bike shoes, dirt road , rising elevation.
Elevation: m : Decent M
Calories burned : 5,000+
42 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 129.02 Kms.
Today under Tajik time breakfast was at 6.30 and we were on the road by
6.45am. It was a cold clear night. Beautiful morning for cycling on pavement. Some mild corrugation. Saw two other non group cyclists- French and a few motorcycle tourists from Poland, Czech and Switzerland. Beautiful morning for motor cycling.
Have not been adversely effected by altitude sickness. A few have, not seriously.
Left lunch at 9 am. Gravel road for 12 Kms, mostly corrugated. Yesterday I developed a large blister on the palm of my left hand, from the corrugation. It makes pressure on the handlebar difficult, so rather than get in bus, decided to walk the 12 Kms to camp, making it in precisely 2 hours. A good effort I thought and nice to get out of the saddle. Very peaceful. Road was corrugated but not seemingly as bad as yesterday. Beat a number of cyclists into camp. Arriving at camp discovered that local nomads had just killed a yak for its meat. Done halal style. Thankful I wasn't at camp at time as others said the beast was in considerable distress.
Tonight we ate yak stew. A very dark ( black) meat with little fat. Tasted ok. Yaks are about
30% larger than cows. When it was slaughtered all parts were utilised, saw a dog running away with entrails clasped in its mouth, the hair was cut off, presumably used for blankets and warmth, the skin was removed and carried away by 4 men ( blankets and yurt walls), and presumably the beast was dissected, with some meat being eaten fresh, some salted and stored and remainder dried and stored.
Tonight will be our highest camp on tour. We climb a little tomorrow morning before descending, then more climbing latter in the week. Cannot imagine how the Silk Road travellers of yesteryear traversed this terrain. Must have been very hardy and resilient people. The wind is constant, the sun strong and when it disappears behind a cloud or mountain very cold. Most mountains are snow capped. Not a bad day.
Up and down in more ways than one!
MURGRAB THURSDAY 17.7.14.
Distance: 68 Kms cycling; 12 Kms crap corrugation ( bus) SubT. 5342 Kms Bal 7,112 Kms
Road Condition: Country Road . Pavement ok, GRAVEL Deep corrugation so decided to catch us for 12 km as I
have bad blister on left hand aggravated by corrugation.
Weather: cold temp. Sub Zero last night everything frozen. Less than 10 C on ride.
Time in Saddle: 3 hrs Av Speed: av. 22. 5kph.
Elevation: 600 m : Decent 1200 M
Calories burned : 5,000+
43 cycling days. DAILY AVERAGE 128.50 Kms.
Today we are in a hotel. Yippee. Washing at laundry. Yippee. Communal cold showers with no curtain and cold water. Your own opinion.
Last night was freezing - sub zero. Sleeping bag ok but head gets cold and I toss and turn trying to get warm, so get wrapped like glad wrap in bag. Also I had the Symphony orchestra trumpet players next to me last night. These wax earplugs are proving invaluable. Camp above 13,500 feet between snowcapped mountains. Up at 5 am. Very cold in bike gear. 1 t shirt, 1 bike shirt, 1 winter bike jacket, 1 vinyl rain jacket, long finger gloves, bike pants, bike short, hat. All my gear and still cold. Ate porridge then got in bus for 12 Kms of corrugation, see above. Then got out at highest pass and
took photos then got on bike. 15,305 feet. Freezing. Made good time, despite breathlessness, strong headwind and rough pavement. The thought of a hotel I think and a shower. Shower disappointing, BUT now clean all over, after 5 cold nights of camping. Wet wipes can only do so much!
Still have cold tick as I write this, so bear with me please.
No wifi, withdrawal symptoms all round, and only marginally better phone. Only central WA could be more remote!!! Still the scenery is amazingly beautiful. My comments the other day may have been a little harsh?!?
Visited the bazaar. Housed in ship containers. Shops sold daily necessities, meat and veg, some clothing and shoes and telephone cards. Contemplated an internet card, but only style sold were the larger SIM, which wouldn't fit in telephony.
The ground here is very dry, devoid of any vegetation, grass or trees. Wind swirls constantly, a pity after having a cold shower in freezing conditions to remove 5 days of accumulated dust!
English seems to be understood and a few people speak it well. The Tajiks are ethnically related
to the Afghanis and the Iranians and all are called Persians. The language is 90% the same in each language. The Kyrgyz people are ethnically related to he Kazaks. Not sure on other Stans as yet. Apparently the borders of these countries were drawn up by Stalin looking at a map and drawing border lines, not necessarily being cognisant of ethnicities. Much like the British in India, Middle East and Africa.
DESERT CAMP FRIDAY. 18.7.14
Today I rode the bus the 103km. Think I over did it yesterday as last night I had serious chills, headache and breathlessness. Maybe I am feeling susceptible to altitude sickness, every thing I do leaves me exhausted. Also was running a high temperature. So will probably be off the bike until we are at lower altitude in a few days time. Not a good feeling.
I am also tired of the constant early starts, 5am, long afternoons in camp with little to do, eating meals on fold up chairs with a spoon, toilet in the bush with minimum privacy, wet wipe body cleaning and wearing the same clothes multiple days and listening to
same repetitive stories. This trip has been so dusty. Something which I hadn't considered. Also this group is made up of diehard cyclists who talk incessantly about the bike. Some have 7+ bikes. I am more interested in the area, but there is only so many photos of mountains one can take. So in some respects feel like an outsider.
But I am also torn because I want to see Uzbekistan and Iran. Was talking to Claire the nurse today as she was monitoring me. She said on other trips people have taken a holiday from cycling. Maybe I will investigate this after Uzbekistan and see about visiting Iran earlier then leaving the tour.
The scenery is more of the same today, interesting coloured mountains. This area is remote and villages look like what I expect GULAGS to look like. This area is also a pathway for channelling Taliban Heroin into Europe.
Tonight at dinner I had another serious bout of the shakes. Maybe it was the thought of eating Macaroni and cheese. Joking aside, it became more serious as the evening progressed with my temp spiking to 39.4 and a
heart rate of 170/100. Not good. So the medic made the decision that I should be taken to hospital in Khorog. A five hour trip in mostly darkness with a vehicle change in the middle. On the way another shivering bout, and at the hospital another more serious bout.
The hospital transfer was exciting, the TDA truck half way, then what seemed a mafioso low sprung, blackened window Mercedes for the last half. This area is supposedly under Taliban influence and these guys could have been making some extra dollars. The driver drove at 120kms over difficult roads, one handed. At least I felt to ill to worry!!
KHOROG. SATURDAY 19.7.14
Arrived at hospital at 1 am, thankfully with Emily, the trainee Tour Leader, but a well experienced South African occupational therapist. She was a force to be reckoned with by the hospital staff. I was largely a shivering, diahroer ravaged wreck, with hyperventilating breaths, by this stage.
I was admitted. Emily had to demand action otherwise I am sure nothing much would have happened. Initially they started treating the fever with cold bottles under my armpits and
sprinkling cold water on me. After demand , see below, I was placed on a drip with antibiotics, and paracetamol, which first had to be purchased at the front counter. These had the effect of bringing down the fever and regulated my blood pressure. However the 'runs' continued, 20 times by the time I left hospital,(and I hadn't eaten for two days), quite an art on a squat toilet, when muscles feel like jelly.
The hospital was overrun with flys, luckily I had my Aussie fly hat net with me, so I put it on, at least breathing through my mouth meant I didn't swallow flies. No plumbing in the hospital seemed to work. Still the wet wipes!
The nursing staff continued forcing on me cherry tea, which we were told was the treatment for stomach complaints, which initially tasted ok, until that seemed to be there only trick, other than wanting me to eat plenty of dairy products. This seemed strange to both Emily and me, as we thought dairy upset stomach upsets if this was what I had. This is when Emily demanded more proactive treatment, drips and antibiotics, etc. Finally got
to sleep about 6 am, for a couple of hours.
Then the supposedly English speaking doctor rolled in. Don't know where I got that idea, she was Russian and spoke Russian at 150 decimals+. We had requested blood tests to help determine the bug, but the doctor refused maintains that the cheery tea was just the thing. So after Emily had more confrontation, more drips with antibiotics were ordered by the Doctor. I was then changed to another room, as I had been placed in the nurses day room. Explained why a multitude of people kept passing through, staring and talking loudly. I think one older nurses aid took a liking to me as she kept giving me thumbs up and high fives. At least it made me laugh.
Emily went to the hotel, said she would be back later, but I think probably fell asleep exhausted.
KHOROG SUNDAY. 20.7.14
Was awake most of the night as there was a brilliant white light. outside my unshaded window, which didn't work last night. The hospital was in complete darkness then. I only fell asleep on sunrise at 4am.
During the night I had my second drip, and medications and before hospital departure 15 more trips to the loo, the flushing of which was resolved with an old pot I discovered in the corner.
Emily rescued me at 11am, and I think the Doctor was pleased to see me go. Hospital costs, 20 som ( $4), plus all mediations another $20. So if I get 100% fit, a Very cheap hospital visit, maybe this explains the run down nature of the hospital.
Moved to the tour hotel. Got here at about the time of the first riders, who must have ridden like the wind over 130 Kms on rough and sandy roads. Such a relief to get my own room and working shower and dark curtains. Very comfortable and perhaps the nicest room so far.
The rest of the day I did very little.
Interestingly, and not previously mentioned by TDA, last trip two years ago, in this town, at this time, when the tour arrived an uprising between waring military and criminal factions broke out, apparently 187 people killed. The group were spread over
three hotels in different parts of town and had to be rescued by helicopter and a Muslim sect of the Aga Khan. Apparently the tour members were given $1000 as compensation for trauma, of the battle zone. Nice to know!!
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Peter Broomfield
non-member comment
Hard riding
Roger, hope you are totally recovered by the time you get this. Very much appreciate and enjoy your daily journal. Is this the most remote part of the tour?