After 10 wonderful days on the plateau at 4500m of altitude, getting back into town at Khorog was very difficult. I couldn’t stand the noise, the traffic, the dust (you’d think I’d be used to such things after 7 years in China!), and the owners of the guesthouse I stayed at really irritated me. My initial plan was to go on to Dushanbe but the cyclists I met, those who had ridden from the capital city told me the road was extremely bad and bumpy, with a lot of trucks, and at the time (August) the temperatures went up above 40degrees… At the same time everyone was talking about the Wakhan Corridor, which is a dirt road following the Afghan border for 300km. Everyone warned me that the road was bad with sand, bumps, holes, gravel
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