So there's a specific bird I'm looking for this day, and I take a little dugout canoe across a shallow river, and start walking. First through the village, a scattering of concrete, mud and plywood and bamboo huts and houses, lots of palms everywhere, dirt paths going through people's gardens, everyone very friendly, we all say hello all day long. Then leaving the houses behind and into more serious jungle, real tropical rainforest. I'm following a river more or less and occasionally the path crosses it, a chance to get naked and find a rock pool in the rapids. After an hour I come into a bit of a clearing and a house straight out of hollywood's idea of a jungle retreat, on the river's edge, packed earth front yard, lots of shade, the word verdant
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