Advertisement
Published: January 9th 2016
Machu Picchu
The money shot.Arguably the most famous of all the sights in the South America and often the biggest highlight of many a traveller's journey through the continent, Machu Picchu is one of the 'big ones'. The traditional way to get here is via the equally famous Inca Trail - a gruelling four day trek through the jungle and over the mountains. The idea of Machu Picchu being a lost city only recently rediscovered, of being a holy grail at the end of a long, hard journey - the idea is entrenched that Machu Picchu is a sight that needs to be earned.
As such, you have to book the official Inca Trail months in advance and the cost to do it is an eye-watering US$600. Prohibited by cost and my lack of organisation, it wasn't my intention to do the Inca Trail, as much as I would love to have done it.
The site's popularity and the flood of tourism dollars inevitably brought in has of course made the site much more accessible - walking is no longer the only option to get up there. But I still wanted to arrive at Machu Picchu with a sense of achievement - for it to
Ruins At Machu Picchu
Stunning location for a set of ruins. be the reward for hard work. I still wanted the journey. And so I set out on my alternative journey to Machu Picchu from Copacabana, Bolivia, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
And I did so with a very rumbly tummy. Whether it was the legacy left by the
silpancho I had the previous is not certain, but it made for an uncomfortable ride to the Peruvian border.
The border crossing was one the more unusual ones I have done - everyone has to disembark the bus to be processed by Bolivian border control before being made to walk the one hundred or so metres through no-man's land to their Peruvian counterparts. Not sure what the walking is all about.
Once back on the bus however, I got some good Spanish practice in by talking to Marie, the Colombian girl in the seat next to me. Our conversation was decent - I still struggled with some of the conjugations and some words, but overall it was a great confidence booster. I also managed to get some information about travelling through Colombia which will be really useful - as well as a contact once I arrive in Cartagena,
Top Of The World
Looking over my domain at the top of Waynapicchu. Colombia!
We had to change bus in Puno, which looked and smelt like shithole - the sulphur in the air ensured the place smelt like my farts the previous night.
The worst bus ride of the trip so far the commenced with a German edit of an old-school Hong Kong kung fu film, starring a very young Jackie Chan, with awful Spanish dubbing. It was bizarre yet mildly entertaining, although rather annoyingly, everyone was forced to watch it.
Sybe, Fleur and I then travelled through yet another storm - not ideal when you're travelling on a leaky bus!
Rain was coming in
through the window despite the fact that it was closed and only the curtain stopped me from getting completely drenched. My bag containing my laptop, camera and other electronics wasn't so lucky as it was almost soaked through. Luckily I have cases for the laptop and camera, sparing them any potentially expensive damage.
Sybe and Fleur's backpacks even managed to get wet despite them being in the hold - my one got away unscathed.
All of this combined with bad smells, an uncomfortable seat and my crook stomach made it definitively the worst bus ride of my
Temple Of The Sun
With farming terraces in the background. Sunlight would illuminate the inside of the temple through a small gap in the wall via a ray from the Sun Gate a mile away, on the date of the winter solstice. trip so far. The bus arrived around 1am, about two hours late to boot - I was glad that that particular leg of the journey had come to an end.
The next day, it was then time to arrange the next leg of the journey to Machu Picchu.
There were basically three alternative ways to reach Machu Picchu by foot, without going on the Inca Trail. All the tour companies offer the same trails so it was just a matter of choosing a trail and getting the best price and package. The Salkantay and Lares trails seemed to hard and too long - I wanted a decent hike but I didn't want to break myself doing it - so it left one option left; the Jungle Trek.
The Jungle Trek is the fun option - as well as walking, there is also mountain-biking and optional rafting and zip-lining. Now I'm going to contradict myself a bit here, but the journey to Machu Picchu shouldn't be fun, it should be a struggle. So I did scoff a bit at these offshoot activities for kicks which are not actually part of the journey. But there was still three days of walking
Temple Zone
Where several temples were located in the old city of Machu Picchu. involved so it would be a struggle enough - to appease the part of me scoffing at the extra-curricular activities and to save myself some much needed cash, I opted out of the rafting and zip-lining; I would get the opportunities to do both activities later on in the trip.
Later that evening, my rumbly stomach had deteriorated into a weird, achy fever - it exhausted me so I needed an early night. I still had a day to recover before the start of the Jungle Trek so I was hoping I would recover in time.
Resting for most of the next day, as long as my mind wasn't on my stomach, I wasn't feeling the effects of the bug apart from the odd, sharp stomach cramp. By nightfall, I was feeling better - not 100%, but better. Well enough to start the trek the next day anyway. I had to be, as there was no way I'd be letting myself back out now.
I was thankful that the first leg of the trek was the mountain-biking - it was all downhill and all it involved was sitting on a bike. So not too strenuous for my fragile
Mortal Kombat
The kit we were made to wear for the mountain bike ride made me resemble Sub Zero from Mortal Kombat. Finish Him! body.
My worries about my health soon melted away as the fun of the ride took over.
Starting 4,350m high at Abra Malaga, the ride was very much like the first leg of the ride down the
Death Road but much flatter. As it was raining at the start of the ride, I had to wear a plastic poncho to keep out the rain - by the time I had got halfway down and the rain had stopped, it was acting like a parachute. As the others free wheeled around the corners, I found myself having to pedal furiously around the same corners to keep up. The really flat bits were a killer. Without the fear factor that the Death Road had, I think I perhaps enjoyed this ride more. Just like the Death Road, there were river crossings to be negotiated which were fun, although the sections where the road had collapsed and where was evidence of landslides, were a bit disconcerting.
At the end of the ride we were greeted by hot, tropical, jungle conditions - but even they weren't enough to fully dry my shoes and socks which were soaking from the rain and river water collected on
Through The Incan Windowpane
View through a temple window in Machu Picchu. the ride. Having been in cooler weather for quite a while now, I was loving the warm weather if not the insects biting me. It was also nice to be at a lower altitude again - it certainly made the one-hour uphill trek to our eco-lodge for the night much easier.
The hike itself was hard and up, but shorter than I had thought (if that isn't a suggestively phallic sentence then I don't know what is). I felt I could've gone further, but we had reached our lodging for the night.
The lodge is run by a local farming family and with a bit of energy left to burn, I ventured into their pineapple patch to help them pick any fruits that were ready. It was fun actually and quite easy - simply grab the green stem of the fruit carefully to avoid getting pricked, and then twist and pull the pineapple out. It was here however that I learnt that my insect repellent only lasts about an hour rather than the six advertised. The sand fly bites were almost worth it though - the pineapple was sweet and quite possibly, the best have ever had.
Back at
View From The Eco-Lodge
Where we stayed the first night of the trek. the lodge there were only cold showers - so thankfully the weather was warm. The rather large exotic bugs flying about the place were a bit disconcerting though. I wasn't feeling as tired as I thought I might, which was also good - perhaps altitude was the cause my sickness for the last couple of days although it was weird, as I had been in much higher altitude previously without feeling such effects.
Sybe, Fleur and I also got to know our fellow trekkers a bit better over dinner at the lodge; Ana and Daiana were two Argentinian girls from
Cordoba - a doctor and a psychiatrist respectively, who I was able to practice my Spanish with; likewise I could practice my Spanish with the two Brazilians Fernando and Walter; there was also Lars, a Belgian who we probably got on with the best; two Korean girls, Ming and Hara; and American Hayley and Canadian Sabrina, who we made fun of for getting bitten by a tied-up, semi-domesticated monkey at the first stop of the hike. Showing off the iPity app on my phone, Mr T could not have timed it better when the random phrase generator came up with
Sacred Valley
I had to take a picture break from cliffside paths high on the halfway up the mountains. "we ain't afraid of no monkeys neither!"
It was good laughs and good times.
It was raining again the next morning which provided quite the sight as the mist moved into the valley, blocking out the mountains. As much as my rain poncho was keeping me and my bag dry, it was also proving to be quite the hassle, just like it was the previous day. The last thing you want when trekking along a wet, slippery, vertigo-inducing, cliff-side path is to have your rain poncho constantly being whipped into your face. The water bottle I bought was also too big for my bag to carry so I ha to end up carrying it by hand, precariously putting me of balance as I snaked my way around the mountain. Although this part of the trek was scary, it wasn't particularly tough. I was glad though, when the sun came out and the stretch of actual Inca trail we were on moved inland.
We knew we were on a century old trail after our local guide Pablo enlightened us with some history of the valley we were traipsing through. After the Spanish crushed the Inca rebellion at Cuzco in 1571,
Zip Car
When the river keeps washing away your bridge, you have to build zip lines instead, to get people across. the remaining Inca rebels took the path we were now walking to escape into the mountains, to establish Vilcabamba, which the Spanish did not find for 40 years after. As interesting as the history lesson was, perhaps Pablo could have told us to take a seat for his thirty-minute class so we could conserve our strength and energy for walking rather than standing while carrying all of our kit.
If we had conserved some energy, then perhaps we didn't need the unnecessarily long lunch and hammock siesta stop that we had. In complete contrast to two days ago, I was full of beans and ready to continue trekking which was definitely a positive - it just meant it was a bit frustrating waiting around for everyone to wake up from their siestas. we hadn't been walking
that long.
After lunch, if we thought the suspension bridge we had to cross was a bit rickety, then you should have seen our faces when we came to the cable car crossing. Basically a trolley on a zip line, this was our only option to cross the river. Have to say it was pretty cool though, if a little nervy!
After seven hours
Hiking Towards Santa Teresa
The crew make the way to Santa Teresa. of trekking, we reached some hot springs just outside the town of Santa Teresa in which we soothed our aching muscles - but it kind of backfired us on the tougher-than-expected walk to Santa Teresa afterwards, our relaxed jelly legs betraying us on the climb up to the town.
The Jungle Trek is certainly more luxurious than those doing the Inca or Salkantay trails - for a start, we got showers, we were trekking in warm weather and we were staying in hostels and lodges rather than tents. We even had the opportunity of a night out in Santa Teresa, which was much bigger and developed than I was expecting.
The cocktail specials that we got at dinner were never going to be passed up and we ended up going overboard a little on first the pisco sours, and then the coca sours. Everyone was getting involved in the alcoholism too, which was great to see. You could say it was the night that we all truly bonded. Tired from seven hours walking, we were all cheap drunks that night - so when Pablo mentioned that there was a
discoteca in town, there was only one place we were
Aguas Caliente
This surprisingly charming town by the river in the Sacred Valley is the closest town to Machu Picchu. Charming, despite the number of tourists. going to end up.
It was such a fun night - and the first proper night out I have had since
Santiago. There was a stripper pole in the middle of the small but sparse nightclub that we dominated, so naturally we all took our turns on it. I think speak for everyone when I say that I was absolutely hammered that night. There were videos taken on the night - I pray to God that they never emerge...
A crazy night out halfway through a trek to Machu Picchu was probably the last thing any of us were expecting to partake in and it you might think that such a thing is not really in the spirit of the trek - that this is supposed to be a struggle, not fun. Well, although we were all back at the hostel by 1am, it made the next day's trekking hell. Although it was only three hours trekking on flat terrain, with a hangover it was the hardest slog of the expedition so far. This was a struggle, and it wasn't fun.
As we rolled into our last stop of the expedition, I was pleasantly surprised by the ambience and
Llama!
There are a few of them onsite at Machu Picchu. development of Aguas Caliente. As the closest town to Machu Picchu, it is unsurprisingly touristy yet its beautiful setting by the river in the Sacred Valley ensures that the place maintains its charm. There was no crazy night on the tiles that night - we were all in bed by 9.30pm.
This was because we had come to the business end of the expedition. Tired and hungover, we were setting off for the climb up Machu Picchu at approximately 4.30am the next morning.
Which presented me with a dilemma.
Once up the top at Machu Picchu at 6am, we then had a two hour guided tour of the site. Then at 8am, Sybe, Fleur and I had tickets to climb the famous mountain lording over Machu Picchu on all the postcards - the ridiculously steep Waynapicchu. It would be one hour up the peak and one hour back down. What was facing me was 5½ hours of walking - 3½ of them directly uphill.
It was for this reason that Pablo recommended we take the bus up to Machu Picchu rather than to walk it - advice that Sybe and Fleur were to take. I needed to think about
Waynapicchu
Buildings atop this seriously steep mountain. it however, as I consulted the other members of the group.
"You walk for three days and then you gonna take the bus up? No way man!" was Fernando's advice.
"It would feel like less of an achievement if you took the bus up at the last hurdle, but I understand your situation" was Lars's advice. "But I'll walk up if you do." Most of the others were walking - but that was because they weren't climbing Waynapicchu too, or they had later tickets which would allow them to rest in between.
I then thought about the journey - Fernando was right. Taking the bus would be a cop-out. I wanted a sense of achievement upon arriving up there - I wouldn't get it stepping off a bus. Despite my tiredness, I had faith in my body, even after three days of trekking (and a night out). I have always been fairly athletic and having copped out a little with my choice of the Jungle Trek over the more 'real' treks, this was something I felt I had to do. And so I made the decision to hike.
Pumped up and with Survivor's "Eye Of The Tiger" in my
Temple Of The Condor
The shape of the temple is supposed to resemble the open wings of a condor. head, Lars, Fernando, Walter and I set off the next morning.
After a wait for the trail to open and for tickets to be checked, the hike started.
There were some big, steep steps but I actually didn't find it too hard as I found myself ahead of everyone else bar Hayley and Sabrina. And I could've beaten them up there had I not decided to wait a little for the others. The trail would intersect the vehicle road several times and so in my head I divided the trail into sections.
The last section was by far the hardest and longest - I didn't know that it was the last section so I told myself that wouldn't stop until I got to the end of it. As it turned out, I had made it to the top and was one of the first of our group up there are almost 6am on the dot.
I had done it - but I knew that I wasn't even halfway there.
Rediscovered by American professor Hiram Bingham in 1911 - who discovered Machu Picchu by accident while looking for the lost city of Vilcabamba - experts are still not completely sure
City Of Machu Picchu
Pounding the pavements of the lost city. why Machu Picchu was built and what its main purpose was. What is known is that people of high-class live here and that there was a plaza, factories, terraces for farming and a quarry. The place is big - a proper city in a stunning location. The stonework and drainage systems also indicate that technologically, the Incas were intelligent and ahead of their time.
Perhaps the best example of their precise engineering is the Sun Gate - through which the sun would shine through during the winter solstice, the rays perfectly illuminating the inside of the Sun Temple, about a mile away from the Sun Gate.
Pablo also told us about the human sacrifices made by the Incas, which were relatively humane. It was almost always children sacrificed and they were almost always sacrificed on the top of mountains, at very, very high altitudes. Drugged with alcohol and other substances to relax them before being buried alive, the sacrificed children would normally pass away peacefully from the cold and the height.
Something that was fresh in the mind as Sybe, Fleur and I started our hike up Waynapicchu straight after the end of the Machu Picchu tour.
Waynapicchu was
View From Top Of Waynapicchu
Looking down onto Machu Picchu. way steeper than the climb up Machu Picchu and even involved a little rock and rope climbing. Taking our time however, we ended up making it up there quicker than expected - and the views were worth all the effort I had made getting up both mountains that morning. There are also buildings up the top of Waynapicchu although I am not aware of their purpose.
Only 200 people are allowed up the mountain at any time and as I climbed over people on the rocks at the very top of the mountain, it was easy to see why. It didn't stop us from taking some awesome photos up there though.
Back down on Machu Picchu, we met up with Lars and together we went to the famous view point looking down on the complex. This was where everyone gets their photos and is the postcard shot of this most famous of sights.
And it was easy to see why - this is THE shot of Machu Picchu.
I would describe Machu Picchu like a Monet - close-up, the buildings themselves aren't that great to look at, as almost all of them are just simple houses. The precision and
Streets Of Machu Picchu
The place is bigger than I expected. This is a typical street in the city. engineering of the stonework making up the temples are impressive, but there is nothing intricate about them. However it is when you zoom out and look down upon Machu Picchu from afar - that is when you appreciate what a stunningly scenic and special place this is and realise what all the fuss is about. Oh and the llamas and alpacas onsite also add to the place's character.
By about 2pm, I was absolutely exhausted. The walk down Machu Picchu was suddenly more challenging as it should have been as my legs started to shake a little. We made it back to Aguas Caliente however and rewarded ourselves with pizza and beer.
I think that your body and endure more than you think it can and that whether you achieve something physically is more mental than anything. I also think that the three weeks I have spent at altitude prior to the trek helped immensely as well - there is a reason why many athletes choose to train at altitude..
Thankfully we were taking the train back to Cusco and somehow we weren't all falling asleep. So we killed the time the best way we know how -
Me & Machu Picchu
The picture everyone takes here. by playing Scum. I'm spreading this game around the world, one nationality at a time.
The Brazilians had got the hang of it by now and as they have all trip, provided some good laughs. I'm gonna miss these guys.
A cramped final bus from Ollantaytambo fortunately managed to drop us directly at our hostel - I don't think I could've managed the walk back to the hostel from Plaza de Armas - and with that our Machu Picchu adventure was over.
It was fun but also hard work - I definitely feel that I got what I wanted out of the trek and my visit to Machu Picchu. As for the Machu Picchu itself, it is deserving of the acclaim - although I will say that
Iguazu Falls is still the most mind-blowing thing I have seen so far.
For all this though, I was to pay a price - how much exactly I was to pay, you will find out in the next entry.
Hasta luego,
Derek
Advertisement
Tot: 0.158s; Tpl: 0.019s; cc: 12; qc: 20; dbt: 0.0783s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Singha
non-member comment
You have a way with words bro
"the sulphur in the air ensured the place smelt like my farts the previous night." Pure genius, I couldn't not read the rest of the blog. Pics look amazing, it's definitely on my to do list BUT showers & private rooms are compulsory. Will have to chat to you closer to the time.