The fridge, the python & the scorpion

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3 glorious days already on Cacnipa and a 4th one approaching. It all sounded perfect so where did it all go wrong? Tbh, this potential 4th day was always a high risk proposition as we needed to be at Puerto Princesa airport by 1.30pm on day 5 which meant crossing the sea back to Port Barton in the morning of the flight (what if the sea conditions proved too rough?). Then once back at PB we needed to get a shared minivan & they only leave when full and only at set times. We would be extremely lucky to get to PB in time for the 8am minivan so that meant we'd take the 10am and the minivan timetable says to allow 3-4 hours even though the outbound journey only took just over 2 hours. Anyway, we were so struck by Cacnipa that we were prepared to risk it and went for an early breakfast looking forward to another lazy day on the beach. Within a few minutes the owner sauntered up to our table and asked me for the photo of the fridge.
"Photo, what photo?" I asked him wondering when he was gonna let it drop. You see, he was annoyed with his staff as yesterday they'd rammed an oversized tupperware box into the fridge which prevented the fridge door from closing properly and it was me that spotted the problem (this was what prompted him to give us a free island-hopping trip) He was worried about how long the fridge had been left open and whether food had started defrosting and should be thrown away. However, I certainly hadn't photographed it and tbh was reluctant to get further involved. The staff were friendly and helpful & I certainly didn't want to be the cause of any problems between them and the owner. Anyway, on hearing that I didn't have any photographic evidence off he went. Next thing we knew there was banging, screaming, shouting and the manageress bolts out of the kitchen saying she can't take it anymore and was quitting. His response was to shout even louder which only served to escalate matters. Within minutes his whole staff were also quitting. One timid little creature was shaking with fear saying he'd thrown a pan at her! Suddenly our island paradise had morphed into that island from the TV programme 'Lost' and we were faced with the real possibility of being marooned there with no staff employed to skipper the boat and get us back to Port Barton tomorrow not to mention no kitchen staff to prepare meals. Breakfast was clearly not happening now and the prospect of spending the day in hammocks on the beach with this toxic atmosphere simmering away was frankly no longer that appealing. It wasn't helped by the fact that there was only us and a group of 4 Germans staying there. I felt like a private family drama was unfolding before my very eyes that a bigger audience might have helped surpress. I tried to mediate as best I could but things were never gonna settle down quickly enough to save the day for us. We felt we had no option but to leave and so we packed up and made our way to the banca whilst the boat staff were still prepared to work for him. The owner didn't seem that bothered that we and the 4 Germans, who were equally alarmed, were suddenly checking out. In fact he decided to accompany us to PB to do some shopping. Meanwhile his kitchen & housekeeping staff were left behind as he refused to allow them use of his boat. They phoned a friend with a boat on another island to come and pick them up and that was that- such a shame that it ended this way.
Once back in PB we needed to sort out accommodation and after dumping our bags it was over to the beachfront bar again for breakfast. Oddly enough, we both really enjoyed coming back to PB. Although it lacked the solitude of Cacnipa it was vibrant and fun and we could relax in the knowledge that we would definitely catch the 8am minivan in the morning. Then, as 10am approached we noticed fresh guests boarding the banca back to Cacnipa as this was one of their pick up times. I was stunned. His staff had resigned. What would they face on arrival, a packet of dry biscuits for dinner? It then occurred to me to find out (not that we would return but I'd invested too much emotion just to let it go) so I phoned reception and who should answer as if nothing had happened, but the same manageress who had so adamantly quit a few hours earlier. It seemed as if it had all been a lot of hot air (although maybe the fact that the owner had come to PB with us had given everyone time to calm down) I couldn't help but smile and wonder how often this played out.
After this, the rest of the day was spent lolling around PB, buying dry bags for boat trips and strolling along the beach. We were also advised to get to the minibus by 7.30am as they may be full by 8am meaning our reservation would then be pushed back to 10. As we definitely didnt want the worry of missing our flight we made sure we did this. So, after sunset G&Ts and a reasonably good meal (but not as good as the catch of the day at Cacnipa) we turned in for the night.
The next morning we were at the depot by 7.30 and grabbed our seats on the minibus which left at 8am sharp as it was completely full. Once again, the website worriers were proven wrong about the Wacky Races driving. The driver drove no differently to what we would have expected back home and got us to the first hotel stop on the edge of Puerto Princesa. Imagine our delight when this turned out to be the Earl de Princesa, the same hotel that we stayed at on the first night. I glanced at my watch and realised the journey had only taken 2 hours and that we faced an excruciating 5.5 hr wait at the airport before our flight to Manila so we jumped off the minivan and left our bags at Reception after arranging a taxi to the airport at 1pm. This gave us 3 hours to visit the Butterfly centre which we knew was just up the road. Now I'm normally a bit sceptical about these places as they can often be real tourist traps but I have to say there was no hard sell whatsoever and as conservation centres go it did a pretty decent job. For a nominal ticket entry price you enter this large netted garden which is full of interesting tropical plants and lots and lots of butterflies. It really is delightful to see them fluttering around in the erratic manner that they do and even more so when they land on your outstretched hand presumably to taste the salt from your skin.TIP: visit in the morning as when the temperature gets too hot the butterflies take shelter under a shady leaf.
They also had separate compounds that housed a Palawan peacock pheasant, a small saltwater croc, a bearded pig and a bear cat - the latter two I'd never even heard of. I love seeing wildlife so found this fascinating. The bearded pig, in particular, looks great in the photo I took. These 4 creatures were, as expected, rather snoozy but as their compounds weren't the most exciting in terms of interior design I couldn't blame them and as they'd been rescued from poachers the alternatives don't bear thinking about.
After viewing these compounds we went to see the tribal village where various tribal skills were demonstrated - making fire, playing traditional instruments, using blowpipes etc. I was reminded of Masaii dancing demos in Kenya and have always felt a bit uncomfortable with this sort of thing. It just seems a bit demeaning though I'm sure the participants don't view it that way. For them it's a job and probably a lot more preferable to what they could otherwise find. Anyway, things then got very Interesting when they pulled out a yellow python and wrapped it round my neck. This really made my day as I'd seen this last year in Indonesia and have kicked myself since for not grabbing that photo op. Well - here it is. Hope you like it.
After, the tribal village it was back into the butterfly garden for more photos of butterflies on outstretched hands before walking through a corridor full of creepy crawlies in glass cases. Now, I must confess to getting a thrill from these things and was sorely tempted to eat a large fried tarantula when in Cambodia a few years ago. The only thing putting me off was an image I remember from tv of Indians squeezing their abdomen and a load of yellow goo shooting out which they prompty fried into an omelette - oh, and also the thought of those hairy legs breaking off and sticking between my teeth. Fortumately, I neither had toothpicks with me nor were there any tarantulas actually present. Scorpions, however, were! These scuttling black shiny things are like miniature versions of the creature in the Alien movie series and when the assistant picked one up and offered to let me hold it my inner John McEnroe came out.
"You can not be serious?"
But she was. She explained how it wouldn't strike unless provoked.
"Sounds like my wife," I muttered as she placed it on my hand. "But what if it does strike? How serious is it?" I asked, staring at the bulbous black poison filled segment that hovered menacingly over my hand.
"Oh, that depends," she responded vaguely. " You"ll probably need to go to hospital."
"Quick get the photo" I barked at my wife as the scorpion scuttled towards the end of my hand. I turned my hand over so that it wouldn't fall to the ground praying silently that this wouldn’t annoy the creature and precipitate a strike. Luckily for me it didn't and with photo in the bag I was happy for the assistant to take it back.
The other crawlies were, by comparison, a piece of cake. A stick insect that I was allowed to handle and a large leaf mantis which was too delicate to hold.
One thing that really impressed me about this place was that the assistants seemed to genuinely enjoy showing visitors around and never once did they hint at getting a tip even when I faffed around posing for photos with their creatures. This was so refreshing to me that I actually did put a tip in the tip box and bought a tooth necklace from them too. Whether I'll find an opportunity back in London to go all tribal and wear it is another matter.
After finishing with the centre we had lunch in their excellent cafe (no creepy crawlies on the menu I can assure you) with buko ( fresh coconut), our drink of choice in these parts. After that it was a taxi to the airport for our flight back to Manila.

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