It's currently ten thirty at night here, or so says a battered old clock that I picked up from the floor and tried to re-hang on the wall to it's base or whatever the underside of a clock is called, on a balcony overlooking Mall Road (or some other road) currently experiencing a traffic jam with almost all the drivers honking their horns and the occasional "Jazbaati Kocha" blaring a cassette of "Hits from the Himalayas" from his van filled with people like sardines in a tin. Okay, enough mood setting. So, at 4 A.M. this morning (29 June 2017), I woke up in Islamabad and after a quick breakfast of a slice of bread slapped with Jam at my grandparents' residence, we embarked on our expedition. At 6 A.M. we were at the Islamabad -
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