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Published: April 18th 2006
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Kathmandu Guesthouse, Nepal
A legendary Kathmandu institution - listed in Tony Wheeler's (Lonely Planet founder) travel top 30. He describes it as a 'bottleneck' - everyone passes through at one point! Leaving India was both sad and an utter relief. Sad because India had truly embraced me with its amazing experiences, new friends and plain lunacy! However, I was tired, exhausted and more than excited to escape the dirty and hot streets of Delhi. My plan for Nepal involved some time in Kathmandu to unwind and slow down after the hectic pace of India, then a trip to Pokhara - the gateway to the Himalayas for hiking and other adventures.
My trip was off to a great start when I secured the ultimate ('rock star') Himalaya/window seat position and had a sensational (even surreal) view of the mountains piercing through the fluffy clouds below. Arriving in Kathmandu everything was very straightforward and relaxed, my free transfer collected me to take me to the Kathmandu Guest House - every backpackers dream accommodation. Described by Tony Wheeler (the guy who started lonely planet) as one of the great travel 'bottlenecks' (ie - everyone will pass through there at one stage or another) - it was the most well-equipped budget accommodation I have ever encountered. For a mere $12 I got a room to myself with double bed complete with ensuite. Then to top
Tibetan Monk
At the monkey temple, Kathmandu. this off, the hotel had every facility the serious or not-so-serious hiker could possibly need - including internet, beauty salon, 3 restaurants, small movie theatre, bookshop, courtyards and gardens with relaxed tables, chairs and scattered cushions ... perfect! And if that isn't enough to convince you of it's merits - surely the fact that Ricky Martin and Jeremy Irons once stayed will be enough to grab you??!!
As it turns out, my arrival at the guesthouse also coincided with a hacking cough - a great way to make friends I find (not!). The place was crawling with sporty adventure types - you know the ones I mean - men with sinewy legs, tanned faces and wearing shorts (always) - the women wearing knotted scarves around their necks, carrying hiking sticks/poles and in desperate need of a haircut?! If they weren't an avid hiker, they were a foreign correspondent with laptop and polo shirt - reporting news on the political situation. Everyone asked which hike I'd be doing - Everest or Annapurna - so I spent several days experimenting with credible excuses as to why neither (the truth is I'm simply not fit or motivated enough and of course, not
enough time ...)!
The local Nepalese were lovely people. The men were stocky, athletic and almost Maori looking (except for height). In fact, I saw many around Thamel (tourist area) with older Western women hanging off their arms - according to those I spoke to, an older Western woman is seen as a ticket out of Nepal. The hotel staff were also particularly lovely and helped nurse my cold with pot after pot of ginger and lemon tea. This certainly helped and I was out seeing the sites - including Durbar Square and the Monkey Temple in no time!
What I hadn't banked on was the impact of Nepal's political situation on my visit. I was well informed of the Australian Government's warnings and had seriously considered them(weighing against the warnings the fact that all Australian tour companies continue to operate and Australian tourists to Nepal are up over 50% this year) leaving me confident the situation was safe for the careful traveller. The unknown factor was a four day strike which had been declared by the 7 political party alliance the week I arrived. Basically there are three groups in opposition - the unpopular King Gyanendra (&
Thamel, Kathmandu
We were under curfew at the hotel approximately 12 hours per day, leaving the streets outside deserted. his henchman/police), the 7 political parties & the Maoists. The King sacked the government and adopted total power in February 2005 and the Maoist rebels have been fighting since 1996 to topple the monarchy. The significance of this strike was the Maoists had joined hands with mainstream political parties to form a loose alliance against the king. What is more, the UN expressed their disgust at the use of force and suppression of freedom of speech as the king's police/army began arresting anyone who was protesting. For me and my fellow travellers, the four day strike meant curfews - where we weren't allowed out on the streets for up to 14 hours per day (police were given permission to shoot to kill anyone breaking the curfew) and prevented people from travelling anywhere but the airport. As the strike continued beyond the four days, food and other basic supplies started to run out and I was very glad I'd chosen to stay at a self-sufficient hotel - rather than a small guesthouse.
In the end, out of bored frustration and inability to travel to Pokhara - I decided to fly back to India and spend some more time there before
Sunset Udaipur
Enjoying the sunset from the 'Top-on-hill' Restaurant at my Hotel Anjani, Upaipur. heading for Beijing. Sadly, the violence and riots continue in Kathmandu with seemingly no resolution. Hopeful I will get back there for a serious hike one day, but for now I was just plain relieved to get out!
Back to India - what to do? I weighed up the options and after seeing one too many rodents in my hotel in Delhi, decided to accept an invite from my tour guide Chandra to visit his hometown of Udaipur. Described as the most romantic place in India, Udaipur - located in Southern Rajastan, really is the stuff of fairytales. With a spectacular lake and the famous Lake Palace Hotel in its middle - the setting of Udaipur is almost European. Made famous by the Bond movie 'Octopussy' in the early 80's - the place was the playground of the Maharajas and I can see why. Aside from the Lake Palace, Udaipur also has a sprawling City Palace decorated with ornate mirrors and glasswork and the Monsoon Palace - perched on the top of the surrounding hills with perfect sunset views from it's crumbling spires. Even more postcard perfect is Udaipur at night when all the abovementioned palaces are lit up
Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur
Perhaps most famous for it's appearance in the James Bond Movie - Octopussy and a fireworks display is set off on the lake for the pleasure of guests on an all-you-can-eat-and-drink boat.
Chandra had organised for me to stay at the Anjani Hotel - a family business - head up by an eccentric, white haired Indian who kept suggesting I get my pictures from his rooftop published in the Lonely Planet. The hotel was fantastic, cheap, and in no time I was invited to a family dinner and offered a specially cooked meal (an early birthday dinner) by the staff. The heat in Udaipur was dry and draining (above 45 degrees everyday), and unfortunately after hours of sightseeing I fell fowl to heat-stroke of the worst kind. Even more unfortunate, nausea hit just when my specially cooked meal arrived and I had to explain to the poor cook it wasn't that I didn't like his food, I genuinely couldn't stomach it .... and just when I thought I'd escaped India without illness!! Chandra was the host-with-the-most and it was great to see Udaipur through the eyes of a local. A great encore to my time in India before boarding the Trans-Mongolian Railway in Beijing!
Ellen xo
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Ida
non-member comment
hello!
Ellen, I'm so glad to hear you made it back to India without incident. I followed your lead and had my mother (back in the States) confirm my flight out of Kathmandu. Best of luck with the rest of your adventure. I look forward to hearing about the rest of the trip (and what happens after). http://idaone.blogspot.com/