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Asia » Nepal
March 28th 2009
Published: March 28th 2009
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First of all, yes I am alive. Secondly, there isn’t a reliable source of internet anywhere near me so this is why I have been out of contact. I made it safely to Nepal after getting bumped up to first class on my last flight from Dehli. Having traveled for 48 hours I was exhausted and not sure what was going on so luckily I was greeted by a GVI member at the airport. Three other volunteers started the same day as I did- a 25 year old from Australia (Mary) and two 18 year olds from the UK (Tom and Zoe). Mary and I were roommates and quickly understood why a “strong” torch was highly recommended-the power went out as we entered our room giving new meaning to “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere”, so we grabbed a candle and headed down for a beer.

The first week was spent getting to know Katmandu with a few side trips, as well as language lessons while living with a Nepali family. We saw many, many temples so I almost feel like a convert. During one of our tours, my guide told me we were going through a temple to see a Nepalese barbecue. Mary, the Australian was pretty excited since she was missing many at home. The other two must have picked up what was going on before Mary and I; I saw a lot of people standing around a large fire above a river…only the fire was burning a body, not food. Our guide explained that once a person dies their most respected relative (if woman dies than their husband/father/brother) carries them on a bamboo stick made bed to the riverside. The body is covered in white then splashed with color by closest relatives and finally lit on fire. When the body is finished burning it is disposed into the river to wash away. The family is not allowed to eat for anywhere between 7 and 13 days depending on caste, and once that period is over there is a large party. I started to feel sick watching it so I left; it was so different experiencing such a public event when at home it’s so private and intimate.

Katmandu is incredibly busy and dirty so I wasn’t really a fan. There is garbage everywhere, people (including women) cough up their entire immune system and spit it anywhere it can land and you are considered lucky not to get hit by the various moving vehicles flying by. The weather was a bit cold in Katmandu, but I’m sure nothing compared to the snow back home. My host family was extremely welcoming and patient given the language barrier. The son spoke English well so the 2 times he was home helped a lot. Mary and I would wake for morning tea to defrost before language class; after class we would return for dal bhat (rice and lentils with incredibly spicy curry) at 9am then again at 5pm. I picked up a little of the language but will hopefully learn more. One day we did a short hike and stayed at “the Farmhouse”. It’s a very, very remote (and I’m talking remote for Nepal) house atop the hills...absolutely beautiful! After resting we started preparing dinner and sat around a campfire. It was so peaceful…until we heard very rapid clucking then a snap. One of our guides walked over and started moving the logs around and it took me a minute to realize he was now roasting the chicken (or trying to burn off its feathers)! I claimed vegetarianism that night and have stuck with it.


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10th April 2009

Great job
Ellie, you are having a remarkable experience. It is so nice to be able to talk to you on Saturdays and Sundays. You describe your experiences well and from what you are saying you are making some wonderful friends. I try to envision where you are living. I am anxious to see some pictures. We love you and are so happy for you.

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