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Published: December 12th 2008
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November 5, 2008 Wednesday 2:30 p.m. Marpha Day 16
Dilman just came to us (we’re sitting on a sunny rooftop of the Dhaulagiri Guest House in Marpha) to tell us that Obama has won the election. Tomorrow we’ll be in Kagbeni and should be able to catch some news on the internet.
It was quite cloudy yesterday; a few drops of rain fell during lunch, but then stopped while we walked through Lajung and into the neighboring town of Kharbang, also referred to as Khobang where we stopped at a very quaint western-looking lodge called the Musk Deer Valley Resort (also Restaurant and Bar). It appeared to be run by a woman in her late 30’s with a teen-aged son and daughter and a 49-day-old baby girl. We were chilly in the afternoon and she immediately brought us a charcoal heater so we were totally toasty throughout the afternoon, through dinner and until we went to bed. Dilman joined us throughout much of the time as did the woman and both of her daughters. There was a terrific windy rainstorm while we had dinner and into the night. The bedroom was cozy with clean sheets and real blankets (no mummy bags!) We slept well and awoke to a cool crystal clear morning. We could see all the snow covered mountains surrounding us - Dhaulagiri, for one. Generally I’ve given up knowing which mountains are which - except for Dhaulagiri and “Fishtail”, at least from certain perspectives.
After porridge with apples for breakfast we set out. It was blowing very hard. The wind was actually howling. (Now I know what that expression means.) Luckily the heavy rain of the night before prevented dust from blowing in our faces all day. We arrived in
Marpha after a two and a half trek over the road, passing through
Tukuche which is a very interesting and very old village. It was once the most important Thakali village, being a meeting place between traders with salt and wool from Tibet in the North and traders with grain from the South.
Marpha is the “apple capital of Nepal.” The village of Marpha is quite old. There are lots of elaborately carved windows, lots of hotels, and lots of stores. We stayed at the Dhaulagiri Guest House which is next door to a monastery. We visited during a ceremony which was held to bring
luck and prosperity to the Dhaulagiri Guest House. There were 5 monks participating - 2 men, a young boy of about 10 or 12 and 2 younger boys. The youngest was probably 6 or 7. It was all quite casual. We were encouraged to take pictures. The 2 little monks were giggling and fooling around, while the other three played drums and chanted. Bruce and I each took pictures. Later we did some shopping for souvenirs in the village.
November 6, 2008 Thursday Kagbeni Day 17
We are now in
Kagbeni. After a not very restful night (I woke up several times and had trouble getting back to sleep), we had breakfast and started out. Dilman soon told us the Dharma was ill with a fever, so we stopped as soon as we could in
Jomsom. While having tea, we repacked our essentials into one duffle bag, so that Dharma could stay in Jomsom with our extra bag while the rest of us continued to
Muktinath.
The walk to Jomsom and then to Kagbeni was fairly level, mostly on the road or in the river
bed. After Jomsom the landscape changed drastically to a very beautiful but harsh and arid landscape. The walk was tedious to me. Thank God there was no wind!!
We arrived here at Kagbeni where we are staying at the New Asia Trekkers Home. It is very nice with a toilet and shower (HOT) in our room. We had lunch and then Dilman gave us a tour of the Monastery (about 1000 years old) and the old part of the village. Tunnels lead into the old village, doors and windows of homes open into the enclosed alleyways. Dilman tells us the village is about 2000 years old.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at an internet café to confirm Obama’s victory. We learned that the Phllies had won the World Series in 5 games. Everything seems good at home. Dory is paying bills that I forgot. Two more days of trekking.
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