The Simple Life: Nepali Style


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June 17th 2008
Published: June 17th 2008
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Oh geez, I don't even know where to start with this entry. I just got back from an amazing week in a village called Phalebas. It was quite the fiasco trying to get there: 2 hour bus ride to Kathmandu, 7 hour bus ride to Pokhara, but then there was something up with a bridge being closed, so we had to spend the night in Pokhara. After a three hour bus ride to Kusma, we then had a 3 1/2 hour hike up two small mountains to get to the village.

Phalebas looks like a cross between Austria from the 'Sound of Music' and the Shire from 'Lord of the Rings.' It's so gorgeous - everything is green, blue, and orangey-brown. The clouds often hang low over the mountains, and there are flowering trees everywhere.

I went with Esther, a girl from California, and we had so much fun. The people at the health clinic and in the village were SO welcoming that it was a bit overwhelming at times. We slept in a room at the clinic under blue mosquito nets and took our meals on the other side of a cornfield at the house of the clinic's accountant. They insisted that we call them Kaka and Kaki (Uncle and Aunt), and they were so sweet. Kaki made some delicious daal bhaat, and Kaka showed us how to milk a water buffalo. Kumar, the community medical auxiliary at the clinic, helped us kill the enormous spiders (we're talking tarantula-sized!) and loved video taping our every move.

We were treated like doctors, even though we repeatedly told them we weren't. We shied away from giving injections and setting up IVs, but I did agree to remove stitches from a man's leg after a horrific fall, and Esther and I helped to set a boy's broken arm and then cast it. It was really cool! We also hiked to various health posts and sub-health posts, and managed to pull together a health lesson for the local secondary school. They asked us to teach, but didn't know which subject we should focus on, they didn't have any resources, and they had no art supplies. It was a very rudimentary lesson, but the students seemed to be interested.

They almost never get foreigners in the village, so we were semi-celebrities. They even interviewed us for the local FM radio station! It was for their health section, and they asked us questions about our experiences here and our suggestions for healthy living in the village. I guess I'm turning out to be quite the swastik guru (that's Nepali for health teacher).

We also learned how to plant rice! Talk about a fiasco! I've always wondered what the bottom of a rice paddy was like, and now I know: very thick, slippery mud with some snails thrown in. It's all uneven due to other people's footsteps, and I slipped almost immediately. We were covered in mud, but it was a lot of fun! Basically, you just take sprouts and shove them into the mud at even intervals and try not to fall over in the process. Maybe I've found my new calling in life...?

The monsoon officially started a week ago, and boy did we experience it in Phalebas! It often rained about 18 hours a day! You had to squelch your way through the ubiquitous mud, and washing your feet off quickly became pointless. Hiking up and down the mountains is rather difficult when you're walking on compacted mud covered in an algae-mossy slime type thing. There are many video clips of Esther and me slipping and sliding our way down hillsides.

After a somewhat less grueling two and a half hour hike, we made it back to Kusma on Sunday, and braved another three hour bus ride back into Pokhara. We spent two days there kayaking, eating momos and naan, watching pirated DVDs (I must say that the new Indiana Jones movie was a let-down) at restaurants, and enjoying civilization. This morning, we got up at 4am to go see the sun rise over the Annapurna range of the Himalayas. It was a bit cloudy, but that's about as much as you can hope for during the monsoon. The clouds were less annoying than the flocks of Indian tourists who played Hindi songs very loudly and were just a bit too obnoxious for 5am. We got back to Kathmandu today after a very long eight-hour bus ride on a bus with very narrow seats and a nourishing roadside meal of French fries and scrambled eggs on toast. Delicious.

I feel like I'm leaving so much out, but I'm writing this off the top of my head in the internet cafe because my laptop is safely stowed away in Chapagaun. I'm leaving the day after tomorrow to go to another village (though not quite as remote) with Esther and two other volunteers. I'm not quite sure what we'll be up to there, but it's supposed to be very culturally diverse and near the Tibet border. Should be a good time.



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17th June 2008

Everything looks so vibrant and fresh! Those pictures are amazing. Lemme know how that water buffalo milk is doing for you.
17th June 2008

Oh my little Kate...all grown up and milking a water buffalo. <3
17th June 2008

HI
HI Kate, you're summer job is amazing. I love your photos and your stories. Keep up the good work. Be careful. Take care. Love Ya, Aunt Mary
26th June 2008

Kate,Those pictures are amazing
Hi Kate, This is Rishi from london , UK , basically from Nepal. Kate while reading on your journal and looking on your pictures remind me back home, farm and hill side. Thanks for helping poor people in Nepal. If you don't mind you can contact me on my email address rishidhungana@hotmail.com.
18th August 2008

Hi from Sarah Florell's Mom
Hi Kate, I was so excited when I was looking for Phalebas on a map and I found your blog. Sarah is probably just arrinving in Phalebas this weekend. I loved seeing the pictures of where she will be for the week. she really missed yoi when yo left Chapagaon. Thank you for posting your experience and pictures. Namaste, Judy Florell
17th September 2008

namaste
namaste kate, happy to see u in nepal.thank you very much. kumar
25th January 2010

life
hi kate i like nepal i am from dubai but i love nepal mount
6th March 2010

some more..
first thank u very much for speaking the truth about Indians. Thank god!! at least u find out how mean they are with their social behavior. Since being a close influencing neighbor they are ruining the purity and naturally polite people of Nepal. There are lot of other bad aspects of Indians, hope one day people will start to look on those as well rather than only seeing and believing India as the Indian media and politics try to show. well, coming back to Nepal, your aim of visit is not quite clear, i mean what kind of program or mission u went there, but i guess u've enjoyed the natural beauty of Nepal while showcasing some help to people. I hope u had good deal on that. And talkin about the buses, Nepal is a hilly country, so making train tracks is not very easy and still expensive for a economically surviving nation like us. So in that case bus is the dominating way of travelling. But the travel experience depends on which class of traveler u are. there are high class luxurious bus to cheap ones. In Nepal all people can't afford the expensive one,so for those there are chip buses, so that people having less money or people wanting to spent less can travel. But it doesn't mean like in Nepal there are buses only like the one u traveled. While explaining things like that, next time please say "I saved lots of money while traveling in a cheap bus in Nepal", rather than giving wrong picture of Nepal to the world. Gud luck with your Tibet mission.

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