Our last day trekking including on top of the Tata bus! Ghandruk to Pokhara

---

October 9th - Trek Ghandruk to Syauli Bazaar - Tata bus to Nayapul - Jeep to Pokhara

We sadly said our goodbyes to Stuart and the boys and then packed for our final day of trekking :-(

We had decided to trek about 2 hours to the tiny village of Syauli Bazaar where we would then decide whether to continue walking back to Nayapul or grab transport to take us back. It would depend upon what the path was like after Syauli.

I must say that for our last day of trekking the views were outstanding! Behind us we'd get our last glimpses of the gorgeous peaks and in front we had the most green, beautiful, terraced rice paddies leading down to the edge of the valley. The steps wound down through the paddies with a view of the river below.

We came across another giant swing which I have now learned are built all over Nepal for the 16 days of the Dashain festival. Dende jumped on and was grinning from ear to ear as he swung ever so high!

We arrived in Syauli Bazaar after only a couple of hours and settled down to grab a drink and rest while working out what we were going to do next. This is where the road had been built up to so we had the option of walking to Nayapul or finding transport. I was keen to keep walking however the path no longer followed the river as it used to but was along the gravel road. It was very hot and would have been another 2-3 hours along the road (the portion of which we could see was also slightly uphill). I really wanted to hire a private car/jeep to take us back but there were none to be found. In the end we decided to get the local bus if one came through. As soon as we'd made up our mind we heard a loud horn blasting as the bus pulled in next to us. Gav really wanted us to ride on top which he had done on his last trip. We all climbed up the back (except Dende - he went inside), got a comfy spot at the very front on top and waited in the searing heat to head off. And waited, and waited and waited... After about 20 mins a group of local male Nepali youngsters (20's?) joined us on top and then other trekkers started to join us. Soon the top was packed - we're so glad we got our comfy spots up front as some of the others didn't look comfortable at all! By this stage underneath was also overflowing.

Then the fun started.

Before we even took off we realised that ahead of us there was a broken down jeep. Now you need to realise that these 'roads' are really only one lane which meant that we had to somehow get around the jeep without falling over the edge. Hmmm. I wasn't happy and started thinking we should have walked. Mind you at this point the drop off wasn't too far, but still... Luckily I was facing the back of the bus so couldn't see what was going on in front. I basically closed my eyes and told Gav to tell me when to jump if we had to. (We'd long ago decided that on scary or dangerous roads you're better off on top than being trapped inside). Somehow we manoeuvred around the jeep without tumbling off. This was only the start! Gav had to tell me when to lay back and duck our heads otherwise we'd have low lying power lines wrapped around our throats. What fun! (?)

We continued along the dusty, rocky path and the drop off to the river below became much deeper. Lucky at least for me that I was on the left side of the bus and the drop off was on the right so if I just pretended we were cruising along and kept my eyes to the lovely scenery of the waterfalls and buffalos bathing on the right, I could kid myself that we were not driving on the edge of sudden death. If you think I'm exaggerating, there were two Korean girls who had, unfortunately for them, only found a seat in the middle of the local boys and were crying the whole way nearly hysterically. They obviously realised that they had put themselves in a near death experience, but it didn't help that they were dressed in tight singlets amongst the local boys, for which they received lot of unwanted attention for... Hint - if you travel in Nepal dress appropriately.

Just before we came into Birethanti, all the boys on top started banging on the roof and yelling out to the driver to slow down (or so we believe in the equivalent to English). A massive branch was overhanging the road and would have taken us all out had they not been able to slow the bus down and manoeuvre the branch gently above us all. They were successful on all counts so thank you boys!

Not long after, the bus came to a halt and we were all told that we needed to get down from the top (leaving our packs there) and walk, as we were coming into Birethanti and the check points and that it was illegal to ride on top. We all dismounted and followed the bus on foot along river into town hoping we'd be able to find it, and our backpacks, later.

As we wandered around the corner into the village we heard some familiar voices calling out to us. Up ahead having lunch, Stuart and the boys had spotted us! We hadn't thought we'd see them again and although it was great to, we couldn't stop and chat as our bus was rumbling ahead faster than we could keep up with. (I was really concerned we'd never see the bus or our bags again!). After calling out our hellos and goodbyes, Mia and I chased the bus down whilst Gav and Dende went to the checkpoint.

We finally caught up with our bus and climbed on top so we were with our bags but could also keep an eye out for Gav and Dende. After an anxious 20 minutes or so we saw them coming around the corner just as our bus was starting up ready to go. He headed off but unfortunately for me, the drop off to the river below was now on my side... It was only about 10 minutes of hell for me before we arrived in Nayapul and stopped again to drop off and pick up people for the journey to Pokhara. At this point I basically demanded (nicely of course) that we get off and organise a private jeep for the hour and a half trip back (what would have been probably 2.5 - 3 hours on the bus) so we could have some control over our driver on the steep and winding descent. I think Gav realised just how serious and worried I was as before long we had found a jeep and were on our way.

We arrived back safely (phew...) and settled this time in 'Mountain Top' where this time they had a room available. Unfortunately it was quite tiny but we were just happy to have somewhere to sleep. We went out for dinner that night at our new favourite restaurant 'Cafe Concerto' - we'd found this great Italian place when we'd arrived before our trek - great, authentic Italian food and wine, on the dam side of Pokhara, before crashing for the night ready to head back to Kathmandu the next day.

---

Photos

Ghandruk to Syauli Bazar
Incredible scenery along the way

Ghandruk to Syauli Bazar
Goodbye peaks - until next time...

Ghandruk to Syauli Bazar
Rest stop

Ghandruk to Syauli Bazar
Another local swing

Syauli Bazar
On top of the Tata bus

Syauli Bazar
On top of the Tata bus

Syauli Bazar
I don't look petrified do I?

Syauli Bazar
On top of the Tata bus

On top of the bus
Why are we doing this?