Well, we survived our journey into the abyss, with everything intact, and a little bonus body odour to boot. The Mongolian countryside is everything that the capital is not: clean, spectacular, beautiful, breathtaking and well worth another visit. At times we felt so far removed from our current residence that the only commonality was the blistering cold and wind (which began on the day we departed). Day 1 saw us bump out of the city in a brick-shaped Russian military style van, in the capable hands of our driver, Bazaraa (whom we soon renamed Red, after Morgan Freeman from "The Shawshank Redemption" - gentle, wise and street smart, with a killer smile) and our guide Sukhee, who sported a whopping black eye from the violent mugging he suffered the night before. Our travel buddies were Andreas,
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