Shake your Bumbun

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Whenever someone writes about hiking in the woods, they always say that it's quiet but for the rustle of leaves in the breeze. Not so, in Taman Negara. The woods here are noisier than any backpackers' on a Friday night. You've only just walked about 300m into the woods, but you can already hear the buzzing whine of insects drowning the noise of an outboard motor ferryboat. The trees, vines, leaves, dirt all vibrate strongly with the deafening sound of life - so strongly you can feel it throbbing in your own bones. Every now and then, over the curnch of your own step, you can hear the grunt of something just off the trail. Your mind whirs - is it digging, searching for tubers? Is it being chased - or chasing? Once in a while the crack of a breaking branch, followed by the brush of a leaf against hide, will silence even you, as you stand motionless holding your breath in the hopes of sighting a monkey, tapir, deer, buffalo, or even elephant. All you're lucky enough to glimpse, however, is a flash of the glossiest sepia-toned pelt, moving quickly through the dense underbrush a mere ten meters from you. In moments like that, fear seizes you as well as exhilaration at the thrill of being far from anyone who can save you, and near to a very present (if not so clear) danger. That's the real reason you're standing motionless, you admit to yourself. In another moment, you would have burst into a run, dashing far away in terror from whatever was out there. And then, you laugh at yourself for being so silly, and go back to climbing the natural staircase made of thick vines and protruding roots. Yet in the back of your mind a little voice keeps whispering, "What if that was the tiger?" and a little shiver runs down your back.

That's what Taman Negara is like - a 130 million year old jungle, filled with premonitions and spirits that are clearly as ancient as the woods. It's completely a psychological experience, something just makes you want to be as quiet as possible. Spend a night there, and you are certain you won't get out alive - just a guess from the noise of the animals. It was (forgive the analogy) like being a real-life, adrenaline-pumping version of "Lost." Our days consisted of hiking, attempting to spot wildlife, swimming in and floating down the the river, camping overnight in an animal hide called a bumbun (for which Kate made a brilliant song and will be launching a new career as a Sesame Street jingle writer), and hanging out with the cool people in our dorm. In some ways, it reminded me of Yosemite. If I lived in Malaysia I would try to make a yearly pilgrimage up to there. Look for the Top 10: Taman Negara release soon (with photos).

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Whoa, I didn't realize I didn't blog for an entire month in Indonesia. Sorry guys. It was a very crazy, very busy time filled with activity. If I get bored I'll blog retroactively, otherwise you'll just have to ask me about it whenever you see me next.

Also, I am in love with Singapore. I definitely forsee much Singapore in my future.

New URL for everything: http://www.beckyneil.com Rather than trying to keep up with the numerous URLs I've been using, and to make it easy on the people I meet, I'm just going to post all relevant links there. Of course, I'll also announce it here, dear reader.

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Photos

Bumbun Tabing
Kate models our treking wear, in front of Bumbun Tabing.

Floating Restaurants
The river in Kuala Tahan, where floating restaurants line the shore.

Ancient Modern Art
One of the many natural pieces of vine art that we encountered on our hikes in Taman Negara.