Advertisement
Published: February 9th 2009
Edit Blog Post
Going to see the orangutans in Borneo has been the dream of mine since I was about 12 years old. On 14th Jan we were finally heading there for two main reasons: 1) to see the orange-haired apes (orangutans that is - not Seamus ;o) and 2) to climb Mount Kinabalu (highest mountain in south east Asia).
When arriving at the airport in Kuching from Johor Bahru a small airport in Malaysia very close to Singapore, we were determined to get a local bus into the city centre and not wimp out and get a taxi. When the bus did arrive we were delighted to find not only were we the only people on it, but that it dropped us outside the hostel we had picked.
Within half an hour of us arriving at the hostel (which btw was probably the best hostel we have been to...it was like a five star hotel!) it was raining a lot and we were told Kuching had suffered from flooding the day before. Seamus was called thrifty by the Manager for trying to barter for a room! We were under the impression you had to barter for everything in SE Asia...obviously not!
Strangely though the Manager must have felt sorry for us and gave us an entire dorm room to ourselves because we couldn't afford a double...bizarre, but in a good way!! As it turned out this guy was an absolute legend and we would go back there like a shot!
It is hard not to imagine what a place is like, especially when you have always wanted to go there and in our heads Kuching the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo was a small cross roads lined with mud huts in the middle of the rain forest, so when we arrived in Kuching to find sky rise buildings, Mc Donalds and the Hilton hotel it was all a bit of a suprise!
Despite the 'western feel' however Kuching proved to be a really nice city in which to spend a few days. The added bonus was that it was very close to Semmenggoh orangutan rehabilitation sanctuary and Bako National Park.
On the second day we visited the orangutan sanctuary. Unfortunately the rain was torrential and although the orangutans were incredible Seamus was gutted that his photos weren't so incredible due to a misted up lens!
A
day later we headed to Bako National Park for a one night stay in the jungle. Getting to Bako was an adventure in itself. Although on the mainland it is a penninsula hidden by dense jungle and the only way to get there is by a 45min boneshaking bus journey on the world oldest bus and then by a small motor boat across the South China sea.
Now normally this crossing is relatively uneventful that is in the dry season! Having managed to plan our trip possibly the wrong way round in terms of weather we arrived in Borneo in the midst of the monsoon, so this made getting to Bako on the south China seas slightly more tricky.
Finding the bus stop was challenge number 1. After having a conversation with the local looney (he didnt seem to understand we couldn't speak to Malay, despite speaking to us for 20mins)we managed to establish the place we were stood at was not the bus stop. Although everyone was very helpful no two people seemed to be pointing in the same direction, but eventually we found it. On the bus we were joined by a swiss couple also going
to Bako and on arrival at the port we were told there was no accommodation left at the park except for one room with 3 beds...now I know travelling you have to learn to get close to people but this is ridiculous! (we had been told accommodation would be no problem in the wet season!). In addition the sea conditions weren't good and so after panicking we would miss the boat we actually ended up waiting for 5 hours for the sea to calm.
The boat journey itself was nothing short of terrifying. The waves were huge and a little fishing boat it felt like every time we rocketed over a wave and crashed back down the boat was going to snap in half....not appealing when you have just seen a sign to warn of the crocodials in the water! However the boat man was clearly very expert at driving the boat in these conditions and managed to get us to shore safe and sound.
Arriving on the shore really looked like the first episode of Lost when all the people get stranded on the island. Although extremely beautiful of really felt completely isolated from the rest of
the world and a little eerie. We lugged our backpacks through the shallow sea and then headed to our room in a little log cabin on stilts in the middle of the jungle. It was cozy to say the least but waiting for 5 hours for the boat to leave had given us time to get to know our roomies and thankfully they were very nice!
We headed off on our first jungle walk as soon as we were settled and realised very quickly how unfit we now are again...that combined with humidity wiped us out. Neverthless we ploughed on sweating more water than I'm sure we had in our bodies and got to see proper primary rainforest.,,ahhh jungle heaven! In addition we managed to spot some long tailed macaque monkeys and later on some proboscis monkeys all near the beach front.
The proboscis monkeys are only found in Borneo and although fascinating they are probably the ugliest looking monkeys we have ever seen. The fact that they are so human like is a little freaky..
At the park there was also a group of zoology students from near Kuala Lumpar. Later on whilst walking along the
beach they approached me with a camera. I assumed they wanted me to take a photo but when I went to take the camera I realised they wanted us to be in the photo with them. I guess they had never seen the lesser spotted Iannaccone ape before.....
That evening we went on a fairly uneventful night walk (although did see some millipede creature that looked like something form the abyss - no photo unfortunately) and then the next day we headed out on a longer 5 hour trek to the top of the rainforest. The scenery was really spectacular and well worth the effort...training for Kinabalu! In the afternoon we headed back to Kuching on a much calmer boat ride and given 'our' room back again, before heading out for an amazing seafood buffet with some fellow Bako travellers who happened to be staying in the same hostel.
The food in Kuching was amazing and I think every meal we had was delicious. Whether it is because Borneo is slightly more off the beaten track or just coincidence, both the people and other travellers seem to be a lot more friendly and so far we like Malaysia
a lot! Lets just hope monsoon season ends early, as the tan we have worked so hard to acquire is fading fast!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.16s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 13; qc: 65; dbt: 0.0759s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Janice
non-member comment
Fantastic photos
We so enjoyed your latest entry,monkeys so cute and hilarious stories as usual.Loved the discription of the boat ride,could imagine the Iannaccone screams!!living and travelling it all with you. Loads of love Mum and Dad.xxxxxxx