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Published: February 27th 2009
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Leaving Kuching we flew to Kota Kinabalu, the nearest city to Kota Kinabalu National Park to arrange the 2 day climb to the summit of south east Asias'highest peak at 4100m. We had pre-booked our hostel over the internet in order to make use of their free airport pick up service, and within seconds of arriving we realised booking and paying for 2 nights was a big mistake.
As soon as we stepped through the doors the folder for their guided treks was thrust into our faces without even a hello or welcome or here is a map of the city. Eventually we managed to establish that we were'nt near the city centre at all, but a 20min bus ride out, so much for the website describing its location as back from the waterfront.
Heading into town that evening to get something to eat we got caught in perhaps the most torrential rainstorm yet, so thankfully we had bought ponchos so like two burca clad women much to the amusement of the locals we headed into town for a nice Indian restaurant.
The next day we caught the bus again into town to find out about climbing Mt
Kinabalu. Not as easy as you might imagine. When we finally found the national parks office ( not where it said on our map) after walking in the sweltering heat the man although smiley enough was a helpful as........ When we asked how we could go about climbing the mountain, getting accommadation etc hesimply responded by saying " yes, you can climb the mountain" no sh*t sherlock........ After about 10 minutes of pulling teeth he finally decided to give us the leaflet with all the information. He then sent us to the accomadation office at the other end of town, where we were informed that in order to get a bed we had to order the full package which included all our meals on the mountain. Thinking it was all a bit suspect we called the park directly who confirmed we were required to buy the package which cost a fortune. Typically on our arrival at the mountain we met another couple who had refused to buy the package and pain for the accomadation only. Conned again, the storey of travelling.......Not only that, the park office told us to get to the mountain we had to take a bus from
the long distance bus station at 7.00am the following morning. He forgot to tell us that the long distance bus station had now moved to a new location out of town.
So after an early start we found ourselves at a taxi rank in the centre of town and having to pay triple the cost of the public bus service....... Adding insult to injury Tash realised that she had left her windproof jacket back at the hostel, not a good time to leave that behind, ahead of our 2 am trek to the summit the following morning in 0 degree temperatures. Possibly the most important piece of clothing essential to a climber making it up and down alive...... Luckly our nice taxi driver was heading to the mountain every morning so he dropped it out to the park on the morning of out trek...We were luckly enought to join up with two other couples on the morning of the trek so we shared the cost of our guide..
And so our assent began at 1800m. Now although we were climbing a mountain Tasha didn't expect it to be uphill all the way?????? It was within an hour or
so of trekking we began to realise the task we had taken on. It was a lovely morning and not raining which was lucky considering it was Borneo and wet season. After 5 hours of shear torture we arrived at our bunk house were we would spent the night, we needed the rest because it would be another 4 hour trek at 2 am the next morning to the summit in time for sunrise. Even from this location about 1000m from the summit we were above the awe inspiring
cloud line. Climbing to such a high altitude in such a short space of time takes it toll on the body.
After our all you can eat buffet and hiring a red circa 1982 jacket from reception (nice!) we headed to bed for the night. At 2.00am the following morning we awoke bleary eyed and tumbled out of bed, greeted by our guide to commence our assent towards the summit. With our coats and scarfs and gloves and head torches on we started to tackle the slippery granite surface of the mountain, at this altitude nothing much grows and we had a rope to guide us in the deep
darkness of the night. Not being able to see anything was probable a godsend as we were literally climging to the edge with thousands of feet of nothing beneath us. About an hour in Seamus started to fell sick (taking a painkiller without food at 2.00am was more the reason than altitude sickness)we almost backed out and went back down, but with some encouragement and the thought of the ridicule by Emma & Rob at the next Iannaccone family do, he found the strength to carry on to the summit.
At 5.30am we reached the summit just in time for sunrise - possibly one of the most beautiful sights we have ever seen. It was like looking down from heaven as we felt liek we were sitting in the clouds looking down on the earth. It was absolutely freezing and the group of rats at the top could have made it misearable but looking out across the tops of the clouds at the sunrise on top of the world....literally...
At 7.30am we started our descent and this was bay far a million times harder and more terrifying as we could now appreciate in the light of day how
close to the edge we had been on the assent. By the time we reached the bottom which took about 5 hours we were fit to drop, every part of our bodies were like jelly and Tashas' hands were covered in blisters. Momentarily we both wondered why we put ourselves through this, but once the pain had subsided three days later we both new that every second had been worth it - as they say a lot of things about travelling are great in retrospect. We were alsoe delighted to find that taxi driver had actually picked up my jacket and left it at the bottom of the mountain for me...what a star!
The night after Mt Kinabalu the 6 of us headed to a nearby hostel to lick our wounds and much needed rest. We met up with Maxine from Brighton. She too was heading for Sepilok the next day to see the oran utans, so the 3 of us caught the bus the next morning. We ended up staying in a joungle lodge next to Sepilok santaury recommended to us by a south African couple.
After one blown out tyre on the bus we arrived at
Puganahandi lodge and had 3 days of relaxing in a beautiful jungle setting. We visited Sepilok oran utan santuary, this time in the sun.
After our 3rd night we and having sorted a flight out from Kuching we headed to Kuala Lumpur on the same plane as Imesha and Binesh a Sri lankan couple we met on mt Kinabablu and had also been staying at the jungle lodge.
We said our goodbyes to Maxine who ended up being a lifesaver as our cretit cards refused to work in Malaysian Borneo in any of the ATMs. It was also Chinese new year and we could'nt pay our bill at Puganahandi Lodge. Thankfully Maxine lent us money and bailed us out. Thanks Lloyds bank for your help......
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