Climbing Mt. Kinabalu 23-24 March 2016

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Climbing Mt. Kinabalu 23-24 March 2016



Mt. Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo is one of those accessible peaks that I in particular have been keen to conquer for some time, and so it was time to do it and to tick it off our list. I was really looking forward to it as was Tom (I think!).



The two day one night climb in Kinabalu Park was well organised. We arrived at our accommodation in Kinabalu Park and had shared accommodation of 4 in Grace Lodge. This was close to a Botanical Gardens which we missed seeing as it closed before we got there. However, a walk through the adjoining bush was lovely.



In the evening, we attend a briefing on the next day's hike. The butterflies in the stomach increased. Just before the briefing one of our travel companions told us the sun was setting on the summit of Mt Kinabalu. It was like sunrise on the Himalayas with the sun catching the peaks. Beautiful!



It was then back to packing for the climb. We took layers of clothing including thermals, gloves and warm hat. The gloves were for both warmth and to protect our hands from the ropes which we were going to use to pull ourselves up and down over sheets of granite. Are we going to make it??? Our guide known as EJ gave us a detailed briefing so that we were mentally prepared.



We had dinner at a nearby restaurant and breakfast at the same place the next morning before departing at 9.45am. We drove 4.5kms to the entrance gate where we showed our special pass where our names were ticked off.



The climb began. After about 50m the wooden steps started.. and continued .. and continued some more. It was a vicious warm up, particularly for someone who liked a soft, gentle warm up. We then struck the rock climb. Medium sized boulders were not slippery as there hadn’t been any rain to speak of for several months. We discovered all the toilets up the track were not functioning because of the absence of water.



The track also included areas of steps cut into the rocks. Some of the step-ups were quite difficult.



The weather was hot and humid so it was tough going. We had 4 guides, one at the front, our tour guide EJ at the back and 2 in the middle of the group who were also porters. Tom and Jeremy (from the UK) decided to hire a porter for 130 ringgit ($43 AUD) for up to 10kgs. Tom didn’t have that much so I added some of my clothes.



We saw many porters carrying 30kgs+ up the mountain. They all had massive leg muscles. We saw many of them twice a day taking food, drinks, gas bottles, water tanks, building material etc, all on their backs. They get paid by weight.



We stopped frequently as it was so hot and water was important as was frequent small snacks. I could see Tom was making extra hard work of the climb, from 2000 metres so I asked one of the porters to walk behind or near him. At 2700 metres we made a lunch stop (which we had taken with us and was packed by the restaurant) and Tom said he was not going on. I tried to motivate him but even after lunch he said he was going back down. It was important for him to make that decision.



I was so sad to wave him goodbye, with tears in the eyes. Sharing experiences is better but it was Tom’s decision. At least he experienced over half the journey and I was incredibly proud of him. Morris the guide took him back to our accommodation and Tom said he was so caring.



From the time I said goodbye to Tom the track got a lot steeper and I knew then that Tom had made the right decision. We stopped more frequently because it was so tough ... and humid.



The vegetation changed from tall bush to low, almost alpine-like vegetation and then back to taller species again. I kept my eye out for flowers in between watching where I was stepping. I found a picher flower which are amazing as well as a couple of orchids.



At about 3.00pm we arrived at Laban Rata our night’s accommodation, all feeling tired but elated we had achieved this first milestone. Indulging in a buffet-style dinner provided by the accommodation was appreciated. Accommodation is only shared dormitories up there with no other choices. All 13 of us were in the same room.



After dinner, some stretching and repacking for the summit climb we all flopped into bed at 7.00pm, trying to get some sleep before waking at 1.30am for a 2.00am supper/breakfast. I’m not sure what a meal would be called at that time of the night!!! I had baked beans!!!!



We started for the summit at 2.45am. It was cool so we started with our thermals on. Most of us were prepared with 3-4 layers.



As it was the day before, there were wooden steps...but steeper!! With the tired legs from the previous day, it was tough. I was so pleased to have walking poles. They are essential. The previous day’s walk was challenging but compared to this summit climb, yesterday was moderate.



The secret to the challenge was stubbornness (endurance) walk at you OWN pace – slow and steady is the way to go – DO NOT RUSH! The mental challenge is what all climbers needed at this stage of the climb. I hoped I had all this.



The written advice we got from our tour company was:GO SLOWLY – plod on at a steady pace, pause, standing to rest – don’t sit too often – it is harder to get going again. Don't care about whether others are ahead! The path is clear, your guides keep track of where you are. There is plenty of time so walk at YOUR pace regardless of how far behind you may think you are. Remember the sun is intense – wear sunscreen and sunglasses It is colder than you think, especially in the wind – if you take off layers whilst walking make sure to put them on again as soon as you stop or are in the shade – don’t wait to get cold.This was excellent advice.



One of our travel companions was struggling with altitude sickness – headache, nausea. I had a very slight headache which is what I experienced in Peru. Because I had only 1 day to acclimatise to the higher altitude, I decided to take Diamox which prepares your body. Tom & I started taking them 2 days before arriving in Kinabalu Park. In Peru I had 5 days to acclimatise so didn’t need to take anything.



We started our walk in the dark with headlights on. As we approached the summit, we met our next challenge – incredibly steep sheets of granite rock where we had to use ropes to pull ourselves up with. I found this very, very taxing with my skinny weak arms (mental note: build arm strength when I get home). After 40 minutes, the granite flattened out and our guide zig-zaged us up the mountain. This was a lot easier and he was trying not to get us up to the peak too early because it is so cold and windy up there.



It was perfect timing. As we arrived we could see the 1^st glimmer of light. I was the first one up the top ---- Yay! Not that this was my intention but during the zig-zag walking I was right behind the lead guide as I found it easier to walk a little quicker – less tiering.



It was freezing and windy but I had plenty of layers on so wasn’t cold. I found a sitting spot about 3m from the little peak of the summit and sat with both digital and phone cameras. Although sad that Tom wasn’t with me a young lad I sat next to was filming the sunrise with a GoPo so we shared our thought on what we were experiencing. As I was sitting down a gust of wind caught me but it only made me sit even faster. Once I sat I looked down at my feet and past the 3-stringed wire fence and saw how steep the drop was.



IT WAS SPECTACULAR TO WATCH. The peaks of the mountains were so rugged. The bank of clouds lit up first. There was a bed of clouds lower that the mountain peaks. I turned around and saw the moon. That too was spectacular.



Then the sun peaked its way up over mountain. Within 5 minutes it was fully visible. The skies around us, as well as the mountain range, were breath-taking. The clicking finger nearly got RSI in it!!!



I was the last of our group to leave, after EJ took my photo at the summit. I tore myself away, not really wanting to leave. I did a naughty thing and picked up a piece of granite to give to Tom so he had a part of the summit.



The return to Laban Rata for breakfast took half the time it took to climb up – 1 ¾ hrs. It was so easy to descend – except for the rope section where we had to go down backwards.



After breakfast at 9.45am we started the long treck down. OMG, after 2 ½ hours of stepping down my legs were noodlelegs (the local name for what happens to your legs when descending). The walking poles really come to the fore. The last 2.5 hours I was wandering if my legs were going to carry me as they felt as if they were always giving away. It took us 5 hours to descend. I had to step down sideways and slowly...a very new experience!



On the way down, one of our travel companions, Amita from Melbourne, who was affected by altitude sickness, stumbled and roller several times down the track. We heard a sound and then found out what happened. The guides were fantastic. Fortunately she was OK except for some scratched and a bit of shock.



My ‘noodlelegs’ continued until we finally saw the big exit/entry gateway. We made it yahoo!!!! More photos were taken to record the moment. I arrived back 2^nd last.



Two comfortable vans which we had been using all tour, picked us up and took us to the restaurant for a late (4.00pm) lunch after picking our big bags up from storage etc. I didn’t really feel like lunch, just a shower.



We were all presented with very colourful certificates to say we made it to the top. What I thought was fantastic was Tom also got a certificate to say he reached 2700m. My ‘shiny’ eyes happened when he was presented his certificate.



It was then back to our as we drove to our next hotel in Ranau which was described as a homestay. It was actually 12 motel rooms built at the back of the host’s large house. We had a wonderful, much-needed shower and joined the group for a celebration drink – sore but elated.



WE HAD DONE IT! TICK!



But it WAS the hardest endurance event I have every done, harder than walking 95Km along the Kakoda Track and harder than a marathon. I think it was mainly due to the distance and difficult terrain we were walking, over a 24 hour period.

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Photos

Mt Kinabalu Treck March 2016 - the start
We didn't know what we were really in for!

Mt Kinabalu sunrise
I looked behind me and saw the moon - stunning!