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Published: December 23rd 2007
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Leaving the Western level imfrastructure of Thailand behind, my journeys started getting more exciting. Firstly, a two day slow boat got me into Laos and I docked in its main city Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang is a UNESCO world heritage site with a stunning array of features both man-made and natural. I went cliff diving into the pool at the top of a many tiered waterfall, and hired a very funky “Grandma” bicycle in order the explore the incredible array of Laotian temples dotted around the city.
Leaving Luang Prabang I had my first taste of the native long-distance transport as a Songathaew (pickup truck with two benches running along the flat bed, containing all manor of fruit, vegetables, rice sacks and live animals as travelling companions) and finally a river boat took me north to the tiny village of Mong Ngoi. The boat ride provided evidence for anyone who doubts that simply blowing on something mechanical that has broken can miraculously make it work. About 15 minutes into our hour long boat trip the engine conked out and we glided unceremoniously to the riverbank disturbing a group of grazing water buffalo. The skipper then simply took a very important looking bit
Slow boat down the Mekong
My 2-day trip down the Mekong to reach Luang Prabang of the engine apart, gave it a blow and then put it all back together again. Amazingly this riverside engineering worked and we continued on our merry way. At Mong Ngoi I got my own bamboo hut complete with hammock, double bed and riverside view for the pricely sum of $1. The view from my hammock was out onto the river which had cut a striking gorge through the Karst landscape. In a word it was stunning.
Laos is so cheap, and the people are just incredibly friendly considering the hard lives they lead. Apparently the average wage is around $20 per month, and the adults often seem to be doing back-breakingly hard work. Families are big in Laos as well, whenever you're near a river there are dozens of kids swimming and laughing and playing in the water - its really great to see.
Heading back south again I was looking to get to Vang Vieng, which is the most backpacker orientated village in Laos. Me and a friend were sitting on the bus at Luang Prabang waiting for it to depart when a guy walked on hiding (not all that well) an AK47 under his shirt and took up
Cliff Diving
Enjoying myself at the Xuang Si falls outside Luang Prabang. residence across the aisle from us. My friend got off to let someone know about the gunman, but they didn't seem bothered and as the bus was about to pull away with our luggage on, she jumped back on board. Needless to say the early part of the journey was spent looking for an underwear stall and considering my travels sans money, wallet, camera etc. We were "relieved" to see him start to openly display his gun after a couple of hours and at the first food stop we saw about 3 or 4 other people wandering around with AK's we realised it was just the way things were done here! Phew
In Vang Vieng the scenery is absolutely beautiful, with the Mekong River continuing to cut through Karst gorges. In order to take advantage of this scenery backpackers hire a tractor inner tube, get driven about 3km upstream, and then float back down - all the while being supplied with ice cold beerLao by the locals, and stopping every few hundred metres to throw ourselves into the river via the means of very rickety looking platforms, rope swings, zip lines or trapezes. It wasn't the most traditional way of seeing
Wat-tastic!
Viewing Luang Prabang's many Wats. the river but certainly very enjoyable!
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