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Published: January 24th 2013
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I came to a conclusion that Sunday wasn't a good day for bus journey. remembered the Phonsali trip back couple of years ago...also on a Sunday...and it was pack jammed and slow!again on a Sunday I set out for Nalae down the Nam Tha river. got to the bus station and they pointed me to a songtheaw, “no bus” they said. and it was already loading up goods on top of the vehicle almost the same height of the car itself, there still couple of boxes on the ground waiting to sort out where to put it, it should be end up inside the trunk with no doubt!I thought I was clever to sneak into the extra-cab area behind the driver seat. but it was more on a squatting position then sit, no wonder not everyone jump for those empty spaces. beside...they are all women...sure no one willing to share that compartment with male passenger(me and another guy). The 70km journey are mostly along the Nam Tha river on a dusty road. most villages we pass through are rather new with nice looking houses...with sign written “healthy model village”. wondered what does that mean? Counting the milestone through the limited space
inside the tiny cab and it was on the 5km sign before Nalae our car stopped and my bland new Laos journey begin, it was road work up in front. I heard discussion between driver and passengers, only the “5 o'clock” word I could figure out. I guess it mean we can only got through after 5 o'clock and the time was half two at that moment. the other guy had disappeared guess I might not agree with the arrangement which I knew nothing about, and we drove into a nearby village I thought why not...could be fun to hangout in village as it will be just only 2 hours more. finally we stopped in field and everything unloaded, I heard they said something about going to Nalae, the driver pointing me to followed them, since I was the only man now in the flock, as a gentleman I was oblige to help carried the heavy goods, then find out we were down by river and...they all started to undress(in the Thai's way)of course...laugh and giggling while went to bathe in the water. I would be in heaven if they were all young Laos women!!!What the hell?“ain't we going to
Nalae?” I asked. then I figured out another word “boat”.... we are wait for the boat. shittt...what would it cost and the songtheaw had gone already. anyway...I figured.... with all this local and only 5km to go...it couldn't be too nasty I guess. after bathing they all start unwrapped plastic bags of food and put fingers into mouth, “come to eat” they offered, the invite was sincere but the foods wasn't that invited!when the boat arrived and no one feel like help loaded excepted only 2 women. I realised actually all those packs and boxes are belong to them. to save time I was again oblige to help. the boatman kept asking me if I were going to Hoyxai. I was wondered what they had told him about a foreigner in the group for the boat when phone him earlier. he was kind of disappointed when I told him only Nalae...no Hoyxai. Finally we move on, a taste of the river trip in Laos, locals were standing in keen height water to collected weed, some were fishing with net, very soon we stopped...well...that was quick I guess. ”not Nalae” the boatman assure me but....all the women off the boat. shitttt....now
I need to pay for the whole boat...a scam indeed I told myself!but they all pushing their palm downward say “stay stay” and started walk along the shore. I looked forward and understood...there was a rapid up front in the river, perhaps they want me to have fun...rafting!great....we ventured on. a little bit bumping and shouting...must be left...right...left...back and fore. we did hit the rock on the side of the boat but luckily with no damage. Women back on and in no time I saw a concrete bridge in front...Nalae it was. this time only me got off...they all sail further on. how much should I pay? I was planning to pay whatever those women pay, now....aiya! boat man asked for 15000, no idea but with the rapid ride...I didn't argue. hiked up the long staircase and I was inside the the small village of Nalae. 3 guesthouses but 2 already lodged up by Chinese worker as both are run by Chinese. actually...it saved the best for traveler...the Chan Savanh...a Laos guesthouse, simple but clean and reasonable price. the village radiated out with the market place as the center, surrounded by different sectors housed resettler from the mountain, mostly are
Lao Lue and Lao Teng people. There is one restaurant by the bridge and one KTV with a huge screen at the mian entrance of the village, then there were couple of bamboo huts bowl out quick noodle and chinese style grill. that was all...don't expected anything fancy here!I spend my couple days by walking out in different direction each day and crashed into villages. river is the main blood stream of the local. probably every household had a boat. no wondered they only advice tourist come here to do boat trip...unluckily...I wasn't!anyway...by walking I still can see a bit of village life. every village I saw they collected weed from the river then prepared and flattenning on a bamboo panel. sprinklering with sesame, shred onion and seasoning, and let it dry under the sun. “only need one day with the sun like this” an old man in Ban Orm told me, he even took the trouble to fetch some ready-to-eat from the kitchen for me to try. the greenish crispy sheet was rather tasty indeed, made a good su-shi I would say!This weed probably a god-sent present for them as it could be collect everyday...never run out. but might
not be the same if it is in China. it would be extinct very quick as they never learn to take only what they need!Women in the village still weaving and do brocade, lao-lao of course produce in every village, especailly in this marriage season... alcohol were largely consumed!I did walked pass a marriage site on the second day. well...I guess I deliberately circled around the site where the band sound were blasting out!finally my guesthouse owner saw me and fetch me inside for a drink. first beer Lao, when it ran out....came the lao-lao!with the language barrier...not much understandable conversation could be remembered, only knew the glass always came under my hand...the round run very quick indeed!in Laos(or was it only here?)...you need to let everyone know when you drink up, so everytime you need to proclaimed “hey hey...I am drinking now” before you can empty the glass. anyways...I only remember I slept well that day!Nalae really got not much for tourist to do if you are not planning for any boat trip.“tourist only stay one night” the guy in the tourist office said, that was already with a river trip!But for me...the people are wonderful here, they did
preserved the tradition Laos courtesy...a smile and a sabaidee!childern are angel here, they made my day!seriously...this is a great remedy from stay too long in the sordidly commercial world. I was hoping to get transpotation from Nalae to Veing Phukha, but there was none any operated services. well...Luang Namtha was the only exit destination. why not...can do some internet!
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