#11 - Villages of the Nam Oh River

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Nong Khiaw, 24 January 2008
Stepping off the bus at Nong Khiaw was one of those moments you dream about when you decide to take up backpacking. To me it felt like a doorway to the unknown, like you're not yet away from the safe and familiar, but you're at the edge of it. Your next step will thrust you deep into unchartered territory.

Located at the second of three vehicle crossing points of the Nam Oh River, the town is divided down the centre by the river itself and is connected by a spectacular bridge that rises high above the clear water. The town sits in the shadow of a limestone cliff face to a spectacular mountain. The natural scenery is dazzling in every direction you look. Our bungalow looked out over the river. We saw it as soon as we got off the bus and knew where we wanted to stay: a $10-a-night shack with a million dollar view. As the sun set we strolled through the quiet village, it's dusty streets having painted it a dull reddy brown. The ankle deep bulldust gave away the season as the middle of the dry; the whole place could use a cleansing sprinkle of rain.

We stopped and chatted to a village lady using the $1 Lao phrasebook we bought in Luang Prabang. She introduced her baby daughter and asked if we had any children. Meanwhile her eldest son of about 8 played petanque in their front yard. Continuing on, we were alarmed at the sight of a man grasping the corpse of a dog by the back legs and dipping it into a boiling cauldron of water. 'Desperation or delicacy?' we asked ourselves, a little uneasy in the stomach at the whole idea.

Muong Ngoi, 25 & 28 Jan 2008
Accessed only by river, this smallvillage 1hr boat ride from Nong Khiaw is now focussed almost exclusively on tourism, and it's a backpacker's refuge where those with wheeled luggage fear to tread. It retains all the character of a local village, except for the 'main street' of guesthouses that has been built on the waterfront. Nothing overly luxurious here, but more than enough to keep you comfortable for $2.50-$7 per night. There is no hot water anywhere in town and electricity for only a few hours a day, but that's what it's all about. Of course, the tourism dollar is driving more and more bungalows up every day, and we were woken to the sound of hammers and saws each morning.

Dinner was a real treat. A vegetarian buffet on the main street out the front of our guesthouse (there are no cars or bikes to worry about). All you can eat for about 85c, and if you want meat or spring rolls, pick some from the BBQ, a 500kg bomb shell cut in half lengthways, and pay as you go.

We didn't have to try hard to find a guide (do you ever have to in SE Asia?). Kai, the same age as me and born and bred in Muang Ngoi, is one of many locals with a sign out the front of his house advertising his services. We booked in for 3 days and 2 nights and prepared ourselves for some pretty serious walking.

We arrived back from the trek just as a 4 month drought was breaking. It was just starting to bucket down and had we been a few minutes later we would have been soaked.

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Photos

Restaurant Nong Khiaw
Notice the Lao style tractor in the foreground.

Walking to the cave
We visited a cave just out of Nong Khiaw where villagers sought refuge from US air raids during the Vietnam War. Entire hidden cities were constructed in the caves of the mountains of eastern Laos during this period.

Bamboo ladder
A remnant of the caves furnished previously interior

Sunset swim
This time I opted for a swim in the clean Nam Oh river in preference to a cold shower.

Street buffet
Our guesthouse held a vegetarian buffet each night for 7000 Kip (85c). The food was grilled over a BBQ made from a 500lb bomb case, cut in half lengthways.

Resting after our trek
We arrived back from our trek in the middle of a massive downpour that broke a 4 month drought. What better way to wait out the rain than this!

Room service Muang Ngoi style
Our host for the night (our trekking guide's mum) served us a great feast, including the local dish 'Jaew Bawng', made from ground chillies and garlic and served with sticky rice. Seriously spicy.

Comments

[Daniel Phasey]

What an adventure
Hi Darian and Julie. What a fantastic adventure you are having. The photos are awesome and it will be fun to follow your travels throughout your time away.