Blogs from Song Kol, Kyrgyzstan, Asia


Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 22nd 2017

The driver who brought us to Kazarman swung by before dinner and we did a deal with him to take us to Song-Kul Lake the next morning. Our routine in the Pamirs had been to breakfast at 7:30 and leave at 8, so that has become our default but he suggested 7, which was fine by us, the earlier you hit the road the more of the day you have when you get there. We couldn't budge him on the hefty price, but drivers have the negotiating power because they know you're effectively stuck. When the next morning over a quarter of the fare went into the fuel tank it felt less hefty. He asked to bring a friend along for the drive back, we knew it was going to take between 4-5 hours and he ... read more

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol July 26th 2016

July 25 - I did not sleep great last night, but perhaps not so bad, considering it was back to the dorms. My earplugs aren't working well, but they do help a bit. I woke up at 5am and got out of bed at 5:45am. I finished repacking and made some noodles for breakfast. I also started to upload a few pictures as well. Anna got up and left before me, so we said good bye again. She was heading back to Tajikistan and wasn't sure how far she'd get today, so she wanted an early start. At 7am I headed out and found the marshrutka (bus) that went to the airport. It was easy and only took about fifteen minutes. At the airport, I had to go through security twice, but I could keep my ... read more
Dinner at the homestay in Kochkor
Making cream
Happy kids

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 17th 2015

After a few admin days in Bishkek sorting our visas and permits for Tajikistan and Uzbekistan we headed off to one of the places we'd been looking forward to from the time we started planning our trip. Song Kol is simply beautiful. We stayed two nights in a yurt, which was warm and comfortable and which we had to ourselves. Did some horse riding, for which I'm still paying the price every time I sit down, walked kilometres, and for the rest of the time laid about in the sun, for which I'm also still paying the price after burning my belly - I'd forgotten how strong the sun is at 3000m elevation. For perhaps the first time on this trip we've found somewhere we'd like to come back to in the future to do some ... read more

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol September 9th 2014

So Monday, was a goodnight with UK bike group in CBT in Nayrn. Met up with Steve from 'Motorexplorers', who sets up trips to China, with people who apply. John & Colene (two up on GS, from USA), Jason, Chris (kiwi), Herve (French). Brian, Kurt (Norwegian), a good team who all met basically enroute through Europe. We left Nayrn full of fuel & food, to travel south towards China, to stay at another Yurt at Tash Rabat 'Caravaneserai' - an old Silk road boarding house dating from 10th century. The road to China is quiet, and this site was 15km to east on gravel track, so quite a remote spot. The stone structure was well kept, something the Kyrgyz's are prowd of. My 2nd Stay in Yurt was cold, as I was recovering from short but ... read more
Tash Rabat
A dormatory, one of 31 rooms.

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol September 6th 2014

So after fitting knobbly tyres in Nayrn, set off for Yurts at Song kul, so up over 3250m top. Essentially looking for CBT 'Bayrt' place, but there are about 6 different groups of Yurts, so I stayed at first one, about 500m from lake shore, "Would I like supper & breakfast" for 1000som or £10 approx. So I had a Yurt one of 15, some for guests others for housekeeping, it had 4 steel beds and wood stove. Authentic wood structure, lattice on sides, with 60 odd wooden poles to support a wooden ring in the roof. Various covers pulled over structure, with layer of polythene to add a water proof layer. Various rugs add warmth and a nice feel. Supper was soup with 1 vertebrae of sheep in it, followed by grilled fish (with head ... read more
old and new.
steel beds in authentic Yurt.
water boilers

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 31st 2014

Kyrgyz's are very proud, they celebrate independence with speeches and perade of government staff! Costumes have vibrant colours, a happy day for all. Horse racing event followed, but in some remote field 25km away, hard to find. Headless goat wrestling and chase girl on horseback, very fast furious. Supper with Peter and Katharina, two diplomats away from Bishkek for weekend. Wise words like:- In spring the roadside Mellon's come from Afghanistan, which are sold by weight, so to increase profit the're injected with river water, but same rivers are infected with Typhoid!. The vodka sells in Bishkek at €2/ltr, they use if for screen wash in cars, I think Russian pilots do opposite and drink aircraft screen wash fluids. As diplomats they often involved with unlucky travelers, to resolve mess, like a Swiss couple who purchased ... read more
Blue outfits
Yellow outfits
Play national anthem

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 30th 2014

Just a short jolly to Song Kol, but 150km plan turned into 260km is about norm for my under estimate. Also surprised by 'blue-ness' the lake, high in mountains at 3000m altitude.... read more
Song Kol
Horse hobble
Blue lake

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 28th 2014

Drive up to Nayrn at 2000m was just another 150km south. But staying at high altitude does make doing anything just bit breathless. First night is a CBT (community based tourism project), where local families provide a room or flat, mine was single room in flat with 3 bedrooms, on bottom floor of apartment block, but with little secure parking. To cut story short, some 5 youths disturbed bike at 11pm so moved to secure hotel parking 1km away. CBT price at 700som or £7 is cheap. Next night in posh hotel £8, big double room & nice breakfast. Jolly to Tourgart border, at 180km bit further than I thought, hope for spectaclar views of big mountains, some 60km roadworks = bumpy roads, otherwise perfect highway. China border is lonely spot, dozen big lorries, did meet ... read more
view from top.
30m trench for new road
road to China

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 20th 2014

At Song Kul lake, we woke to a magnificent morning - clear crisp blue skies and warm sunshine. Breakfast in the yurt was again astonishing to see what the 'lady in charge' could conjure up with such primitive facilities and with the nearest shop being 100kms away. Only negative of the place was the crude 'bathroom' facilities ie none ! After breakfast, we left the lake, and drove thru the valley and headed for Bishkek. Passing thru Balychky on the shores of Lake Issy Kul, we spotted the roadside stalls selling a huge range of fresh fruit and racks of smoked fish. Presumably caught in the nearby lake, there were many varieties of fish including trout, salmon, a flat fish etc. John could not resist buying a large 2kg smoked salmon at a bargain NZ $7 ... read more
Son Kul lake at dawn
Reservoir on road to Naryn
Lake Issy Kul

Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Song Kol August 18th 2014

Torugut Pass was the initial destination today - the pass marking the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. Today was also the start of our 'organised' tour with the Snow Leopard travel company with whom we have contracted driver and guide services from Kashgar, thru Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and the Wakaan corridor in Afghanistan. Started well with our new transport picking us up from our Kashgar hotel and we were soon off down the highway towards the border. Great road for once, and we soon were at the first of five checkpoints - the Chinese customs and immigration checkpoint. This only opens up at 1100 so we had a wee delay but finally we were though with no hassles. There was another 75 kms of dreadful roads, one police check, one passport check thru spectacular mountain valleys climbing ... read more
Blood red Sandstone rocks
Hair raising switchback road up near vertical ascent to the high plateaus
Song Kul glacial lake - simply magical

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