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Published: August 30th 2014
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out of Nayrn
Road works up to one pass. Drive up to Nayrn at 2000m was just another 150km south. But staying at high altitude does make doing anything just bit breathless.
First night is a CBT (community based tourism project), where local families provide a room or flat, mine was single room in flat with 3 bedrooms, on bottom floor of apartment block, but with little secure parking. To cut story short, some 5 youths disturbed bike at 11pm so moved to secure hotel parking 1km away. CBT price at 700som or £7 is cheap.
Next night in posh hotel £8, big double room & nice breakfast.
Jolly to Tourgart border, at 180km bit further than I thought, hope for spectaclar views of big mountains, some 60km roadworks = bumpy roads, otherwise perfect highway. China border is lonely spot, dozen big lorries, did meet some other bikers from Greece on an old GS - friendly. Wanted to run back round yellow road - is permit required?, just more gravel and hopefuly better views right along China border, but it rained so turned hard packed earth to slime - very slippery, it just took all day and another spill (2nd indicator
view from top.
U think I am nuts, watch lone girl ride her well loaded pushbike off down track, think down hills on wobbly steep gravel are nearly as bad as uphills bits. stork broke). At final check point, "U can't be here!" Or U do need a permit - but let me pass as I was leaving area (did search bike for drugs!), Just 84km of gravel & 2 passes to Nayrn, home 7pm rather muddy.
Maybe try B&B in a Yurt, but locals I saw today just wanted me back to their hut for drinking & some cash.
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