Blogs from Western Kazakhstan, Kazakhstan, Asia

Atyrau, Aktau, Aralsk, Aktobe, Almaty, Astana e chissa' quante altre: il Kazakistan sembra proprio avere una passione per le grandi citta' il cui nome inizia per la prima lettera dell'alfabeto; per il momento mi limitero' alle prime tre, come breve introduzione a questo vasto paese, lasciando le due piu' famose ad un secondo momento. Ognuna di queste citta' ha un diverso motivo che giustifica una passaggio dalle loro parti, e per la precisione un fiume, un mare ed un (ex) lago. Atyrau sorge sulle due sponde del fiume Ural che, scendendo dai monti Urali fino alla costa Mar Caspio, segna il confine geografico tra Europa ed Asia, regalando al Kazakistan quella sua effimera appartenenza anche al continente europeo; ecco perche' quest'anno troviamo l'F.C. Astana qualificato per i 32esimi di finale dell'Europa League. Grazie all'Ural, Atyrau puo' ... read more

Let start my own little Silk Road adventure! I'm on my way to Uzbekistan, the very slow way! I'm back to Kazakhstan after the short one hour flight on Azerbaijan Airways...just the time to cross the Caspian Sea. I'm landing after 10pm at Aktau. The little city has seen investment due mainly to the offshore oil industry in the Caspian Sea. The airport is a good 20km outside of the city, till the taxi ride is less than 6usd with a little negotiation. I'm staying at the brand new Holiday Inn on the main avenue of the city. This would be my last really comfortable stay for a little while. Not much in the hotel, and reception advise me that walking around, even at night, is truly safe. Tomorrow, I have to be at 11am at ... read more

All on my own This blog is pieced together with entries from different times, sorry if it's hard to follow, I'm sure I'll explain it better in person. Finally! We've come up with a way to get out of Azerbaijan after much frustration and running around. We were too far down the waiting list to get the next available ferry out of Baku. This then meant that the car had outstayed it's welcome in a Azerbaijan so a fine was in order. We rushed all around Baku with Jahid to try to pay this fine and eventually, $20 poorer, our car was legal again and could be exported. The next day we had a bit of a "don't take no for an answer" attitude as we were getting desperate. We got down to the port early ... read more

There is 600km shortcut, as opposed 1000km via Uralsk to north. Roumour says Aktobe road in poor condition, but passable? Well spent fair days ride 150km out to find out, Past PNR! (point no return) ie left city with 150km fuel &1ltr water, did find fuel in Dosser which did take credit card, beware Kazak is tough country for man and machine, more planning not just Ur average ride out. First 120km fair new tarmak and roadworks making more nice road, then the pothole started, not just one - but real scruffy road, with big lorries using tracks in backed mud sand 100m to either side of 'road' preferable. The bike is good for that, but keep speed below 30kph, with >> 400km. My offroad skills are fair, bean-it if front goes into sand etc, and ... read more

It only takes 2hrs 45mins at the border – that's amazingly fast to get 12 bikes out of Russia and into Kazakhstan. They're friendly too, as soon, as we get the last stamp on our little piece of paper the official shakes our hand and says “ Welcome to Kazakhstan”. From the border the Kazakh steppe stretches off into the distance. In the sunlight the grass seems to be a mix of all shades of green, yellow and brown and the streams are the deepest blue - all very scenic against the clear blue skies. At first glance it looks just the same as the last 20 miles or so of Russia. But its so not the same, as soon as you start riding through it its so totally different – its quite a shock. There ... read more