In Tokushima, warmer days are signalling spring's return. But in Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan, walls of snow coat the rural landscapes as well as the skyscrapers of its capital city. Two weeks ago, a group of JETs plus Francesca, my sorority sister-turned-fellow-Asia-explorer, braved this frigid frontier to see Sapporo's annual snow festival: Yuki Matsuri. Alight with ice and snow sculptures, festival food and activities like ice skating, tubing and a giant ski-jump slope, the wintery city seemed to smile. In between festival exploits, I'd like to think I also experienced some of the distinct culture of Hokkaido and its native Ainu people. Before it became part of Japan, the island was a separate country with a history reminiscent of that of Native Americans in North America. In one Ainu shop, I learned to say
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