Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea


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Asia » Japan » Hokkaido » Hakodate
October 5th 2007
Published: October 5th 2007
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Well actually it's just 6 hours away from Tokyo by the bullet train.
The place is Hakodate, and it's one of the stops the train passes through from Sapporo to Tokyo. The route is really scenic, with a long stretch of the railway right by the ocean. Suddenly overcome with a desire to see the ocean and smell the salty breeze, (and to give my ass a break from the 10 hour train ride) I got off at Hakodate, a small port city known for... squid.
Hakodate is really just a small port city, well known for fresh sea food, and their raw squid dish.
Actually, to call it "raw" is an understatement.
Right there in the morning market, not 10 minutes away from the Hakodate train station, I met my nemesis for the day.
The picture was not very impressive, just a bowl of rice with a squid sitting on top. So I ordered it, afterall I have to try this dish that the town is known for if I am to justify my compulsive stop here.
So the chef extended his hand into a huge tank, and grab a squid that's still swimming around. The squid, I will call him Jim, so Jim is squirming in the chef's grip as the chef washes him under running water and slices open his belly, and cuts off the rest of him into slices, leaving just a stomp with the tentacles sitting on top of the bowl of rice. Then the chef sets the bowl with what remains of Jim infront of me, smiles, and nods his head, gesturing me to try it.
I looked at him in shock, but then quickly regained my composure. I took a closer look at Jim, and noticed that the tentacles are still shifting color, the inky pattern of the flesh flashing and dimming. Then, without warning, as I lowered my head to take a closer look, Jim took a swing at my face with his tentacles.
Yes, my lunch attacked me from my bowl.
Startled, I quickly picked up my chopsticks and poked Jim, and a fencing match ensued, it was me versus Jim the headless squid. The chef, after first finding our duel somewhat amusing, eventually lost his patience, and poured soy sauce with wasabi over Jim. Jim twitched in agony, while I, sensing my host's impatience, picked Jim up and bit into him.
So the suction disks on the tentacles still work even when they are without a head. And eating Jim became an impossible task as he clung on for dear life on my tongue.
In all fairness it was quite tasty, if a little awkward to eat and somewhat disturbing if you really stop and think about it. But I doubt I will ever have food more fresh than this...
After lunch, I took a walk along the pier, and took a few pictures of the ocean, and took the next train for Tokyo a few hours later...


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5th October 2007

Nature Channel-style!
...I doubt I will ever have food more fresh than this... This has to go down as one of your more classic quotes. Did the squid tentacles suction onto your esophagus? Then try to climb back out your throat?? Inquiring minds want to know. Hey, how was the ramen?
11th October 2007

Nice blog, would love to get a link to your blogs on my site http://www.landed.at/Japan I'm currently visiting Japqn qnd your info is helpful, where did you stay in Nagano, is it a day trip from Tokyo ?
16th October 2007

so you lost a fencing match with a dead invertebrate, eh? you've done me proud, my boy.

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