Biking Beppu

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We LOVE Beppu! A long weekend in Beppu was one of the best trips yet. Beppu is located a short ferry ride from Shikoku on the island of Kyushu. The ferry ride itself was great. An early ride from Hojo to Matsuyama port to get us on the boat by 6:45am. Whew. We loaded our bikes on with the cars and trucks. The Japanese service workers were very helpuful in tying the bikes down and worrying about not scratching the pretty red paint. We found a nook near the vending machines in the public area of the boat and hung out, watching the fog disappear from the water as the sun came out. The sunflower ferry on Kansai Kisen line boasts a restaraunt, sleeping bunk rooms if you so choose, and men's and women's onsens to get you in the mood for the Beppu onsen paradise.
Arriving at Beppu we were some of the first passengers off. The sun had come out and we found our way along busy Route 10 to the main train station. The information booth ladies were very helpful and provided many maps of the surrounding area. We checked in at Minshuku Kokage, the Japanese bed and breakfast for the weekend. The people at this inn are great! The place is advertised as an international inn, and even though they didn't speak much English they were extremely accomodating and waiting to help. Great place.
So having been in the city all of 1 hour, it was time to dip our toes into some of the famous onsen. Of course I opted for Horita onsen area, a 45 minute bike ride up into the mountains at seemingly 75 degrees angle. However steep it really was, we were huffing and puffing. I felt the lactic acid from the speedy morning ride before the ferry. At Beppu park we met with crowds of police officers. Still haven't quite figured out what the story was, but large black buses with tinted windows and loudspeakers continued to circle the city all weekend, shouting propaganda, while the police officers stood gaurd at specific public venues, fully decked out in what I would call "beating" gear. A bit scary but they ushered us along very politely whenever we passed. It was actually helpful to have them on almost every corner. We stopped and asked for directions from one particular gentelman once.
Horita onsen had private "rotemburo" onsen baths filled with sulfurous waters overlooking the Beppu bay, and a nice waterfall at the end of the ride. Almost too hot for me, but Mike enjoyed the intense heat. On the ride back down to the city we stopped for a photo op in a park with plum blossoms and many Japanese tourists taking photos. Once again we passed the crazy police scene and ended the day with another onsen bath at the Minshuku Kokage. Dinner with fellow JET friends Ethan, Jennie, Nick, Nicole, Stephanie, and Luke. But Mike and I called it an early night after all the biking and left them early.
The next two days were filled with more onsen at Myouban onsen resort and Takegawara (hot sand baths-very unique!) as well as jikoku, the kind of hot springs to LOOK at (not dive into) and a monkey park on our way out through Oita. The final trip home was a late one and we found ourselves once again biking in the darkness, racing to get home for one last hot shower before coming back to real life...or the Japanese life.

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Photos

arrival in Beppu
unloading the bikes from Kansai Kisen Sunflower ferry

Horita onsen springs
Triumph after finally making it to the top of our trail. Waterfalls and onsen to follow.

Yunohara
Yes, we did an onsen IN the second from the left! Edo-period replicas.

steaming up
The steam was everywhere, even all over the neighborhoods!

oops!
Once a klutz, always a klutz. Dropping my sunglasses on the way up to visit a shrine.

umi jigoku
The basket is for boiling eggs you can buy and eat on site...mmm, more reasons for this place to smell like "cutting cheese".

orchids
Found in the greenhouse powered by the hot steam.

deep in thought
He is actually trying really hard not to look tired after the major climb up the mountain.

Now that's tired.
What a punk. They light the brown hill behind me on fire every year for a festival. Japan really likes fire for celebrating.

Takegawara Onsen
Instructions for the unique "sand bath" at Takegawara. We got there early and were therefore lucky to only have to wait 1 hour for our turn. I still maintain it was worth it.

Saying goodbye
Minshuku Kokage, our home in Beppu for the long weekend. Loved this place and the people who ran it. It included a very nice private onsen and breakfast.

Mike and the monkeys
Yes, these monkeys are WILD! They once raided the farmer's fields, so one of the mayors decided to feed them instead and now Oita has a "monkey park". The monkeys come down from their natural habitat in the mountains to get the free food (where we can see them), then head back up to their mountain paradise. I was a little worried about the effect of the train line at the base of the mountain...

so cute!
A loner out of the pack

Comments

[Ethan]

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Beppu was quite the place. Next time I have to chose a weekend that doesn't coincide with my birthday... I seem to still be recovering. And i will remember to bring a bike next time as well... quality weekend though and it was good seeing you two again!