Living Your Best Death

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja
July 9th 2019

Published: July 9th 2019

If you followed my Midlife Crisis Flashpacking trip two years ago, you may recall that I chose not to travel to Tana Toraja after traveling overland through Flores because I couldn’t handle the prospect of yet more crazy winding mountain roads. So, I opted to chill in Bali instead. Last year, my friends Ryan and Anthony announced they would be getting married in Bali this July, so I decided to c... Read Full Entry

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Siewch

About Me: I am a native of Singapore and a professional expat. Since leaving Singapore in 1994, my life journey has taken me first to Bangkok, then to Manchester UK, and then to the United States - starting with Los Angeles, then Honolulu, then Silver Spring, MD, and then back to Honolulu. I took some time off from work between July 2017 and March 2018 to travel and reflect (check out my Midlife Crisis Flashpacking series). I'm now back in the corporate world with a renewed attitude towards life and work. I plan to take another extended trip ... full info

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Funeral.

Rice barns.

Funeral

Tau tau being paraded.

Funeral

Funeral attendees.

Funeral

The main tongkonan in the village.

Funeral

Watching the procession.

Funeral

The emcees reading the deceaseds’ genealogy and their life achievements.

Funeral

Pig being taken for slaughter.

Funeral

This was the site of the first sacrifice, which was done in a sacred site surrounded by megaliths. Parts of the buffalo, along with a previously slaughtered pig, were placed atop this bamboo structure.

Funeral

This was the second buffalo to be sacrificed.

Funeral

Three heads lined up.

Funeral

The aftermath of the massacre. I was expecting innards and stuff. What I didn’t expect to see was mounds and mounds of half digested grass pulled from their stomachs.

Funeral

The buffaloes’ hides.

Funeral

One of the butchers taking his “payment” home.

Traditional Houses Amidst Rice Fields

Rice Terraces

This will be made into sticky black rice.

Kete Kesu

Tongkonan. The buffalo horns are from sacrificed buffalo. The head sticking out has the horns of the buffalo sacrificed for the housewarming. A different technique is used to sacrifice housewarming buffalo - in these situations, a blade is stuck into its shoulder.

Kete Kesu

Inside the tongkonan. In the past, bodies were drained of fluids before being embalmed. The embalmer punched a hole in the back of the corpse to drain the fluids. This was done at this stone and the fluids drain down the hole at the end.

Kete Kesu

Buffalo horns on the tongkonan.

Kete Kesu

A modern family grave. We counted eight occupants.

10th July 2019

A Small Swede in the Big World
Per-Olof Persson

Very Fascinating
This is far removed from anything I can remember experiencing, It would be interesting to go there and see this for myself one day, even though I might ethically disagree with some of what's happening at least it's more honest than what we do here in the west. Thank you for this write-up, when/if I do this myself I'll use this post as a reference point. =)

10th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

Life and Death Laid Bare
As westerners, much of what I saw and experienced is hard to fathom. It is hard not to judge. I was mildly surprised how few likes my video got when I posted it on social media. I thought more of my friends would welcome this insight into a unique culture, but maybe it was simply too much. Tana Toraja is amazing. It showcases death - and through that it showcases life as well - unadulterated, uncurated. Not in neat little packages like the meat we get at home. Go if you have the chance.

11th July 2019

D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley

Nice blog
The reason we travel is to understand life, family and rituals around the world. It is great you got to be a part of this.

11th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

The reason we travel
You nailed it. Thanks for reading my blog entry.

15th July 2019

alex waring
Alexander Waring

Sulawesi
Fantastic! Great to see you travelling and travel writing again Siewch. I really enjoy your blogs. I have never read anything about travelling in Sulawesi until now, what a really fascinating place. What differences between the culture you encountered and our western one. Mind boggling I imagine, it would probably have taken me a while myself to digest it all...!

15th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

“Mind Boggling” Doesn’t Even Begin To Describe It...
Thanks for your compliments, Alex. This was one situation where I really had to set aside my own values and preconceived notions and try to see things for what they were. It really helped to have a guide.

8th March 2020

Vinceinseattle
non-member comment

It stays with you, doesn’t it?
Well written, bro. I’ve traveled many places but tana Toraja will remain one of my most intense, best trips. It’s really hard to understand what this place really feel like to other, you know? Travel on, man.

12th March 2020

Siewch
Siewch

“Intense” certainly describes Tana Toraja
Nine months on, I still think about the amazing time I had in Tana Toraja. It certainly ranks as one of my most intense travel experiences. Thanks for your kind words. Incidentally, your blog on Flores inspired me to explore that island back in 2017. I look forward to reading about your onward travels in Java. Happy Trails!

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