Living Your Best Death

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja
July 9th 2019

Published: July 9th 2019

If you followed my Midlife Crisis Flashpacking trip two years ago, you may recall that I chose not to travel to Tana Toraja after traveling overland through Flores because I couldn’t handle the prospect of yet more crazy winding mountain roads. So, I opted to chill in Bali instead. Last year, my friends Ryan and Anthony announced they would be getting married in Bali this July, so I decided to c... Read Full Entry

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Siewch

About Me: I am a native of Singapore and a professional expat. Since leaving Singapore in 1994, my life journey has taken me first to Bangkok, then to Manchester UK, and then to the United States - starting with Los Angeles, then Honolulu, then Silver Spring, MD, and then back to Honolulu. I took some time off from work between July 2017 and March 2018 to travel and reflect (check out my Midlife Crisis Flashpacking series). I'm now back in the corporate world with a renewed attitude towards life and work. I plan to take another extended trip ... full info

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Bori

Another view of the massive boulder.

Palawa

This traditional village was still lived in. The villagers don’t live in the tongkonan, but in newer houses behind.

Palawa

Tongkonan on the left, rice barns on the right.

En Route to Batumonga

A modern concrete grave with stone tau tau. The tau tau south of Rantepao tend to be made of wood.

Batumonga

My lunch of grilled buffalo and rice. I’m not much of a meat eater but I ate all of this out of respect for the animal that died. The meat was chewy but not too gamey.

Hike

This buffalo was happily flopping himself into the mud, getting out, the flopping back in. I wonder how he feels after his owner leads him away at the end of the day and hoses him down.

Hike

The base of the center pole was a carved stone buffalo.

Hike

Look carefully at the top of the painted area and you’ll see two chickens. If two parties have a disagreement, it is customary to resolve the issue by having a cockfight. The family with the losing rooster will have to acquiescence. The two roosters are then killed, cooked, and eaten by the two parties. After that, the problem is resolved.

Hike

One of the many megalith circles spotted during our hike.

Hike

Rantepao and Bolu below.

10th July 2019

A Small Swede in the Big World
Per-Olof Persson

Very Fascinating
This is far removed from anything I can remember experiencing, It would be interesting to go there and see this for myself one day, even though I might ethically disagree with some of what's happening at least it's more honest than what we do here in the west. Thank you for this write-up, when/if I do this myself I'll use this post as a reference point. =)

10th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

Life and Death Laid Bare
As westerners, much of what I saw and experienced is hard to fathom. It is hard not to judge. I was mildly surprised how few likes my video got when I posted it on social media. I thought more of my friends would welcome this insight into a unique culture, but maybe it was simply too much. Tana Toraja is amazing. It showcases death - and through that it showcases life as well - unadulterated, uncurated. Not in neat little packages like the meat we get at home. Go if you have the chance.

11th July 2019

D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley

Nice blog
The reason we travel is to understand life, family and rituals around the world. It is great you got to be a part of this.

11th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

The reason we travel
You nailed it. Thanks for reading my blog entry.

15th July 2019

alex waring
Alexander Waring

Sulawesi
Fantastic! Great to see you travelling and travel writing again Siewch. I really enjoy your blogs. I have never read anything about travelling in Sulawesi until now, what a really fascinating place. What differences between the culture you encountered and our western one. Mind boggling I imagine, it would probably have taken me a while myself to digest it all...!

15th July 2019

Siewch
Siewch

“Mind Boggling” Doesn’t Even Begin To Describe It...
Thanks for your compliments, Alex. This was one situation where I really had to set aside my own values and preconceived notions and try to see things for what they were. It really helped to have a guide.

8th March 2020

Vinceinseattle
non-member comment

It stays with you, doesn’t it?
Well written, bro. I’ve traveled many places but tana Toraja will remain one of my most intense, best trips. It’s really hard to understand what this place really feel like to other, you know? Travel on, man.

12th March 2020

Siewch
Siewch

“Intense” certainly describes Tana Toraja
Nine months on, I still think about the amazing time I had in Tana Toraja. It certainly ranks as one of my most intense travel experiences. Thanks for your kind words. Incidentally, your blog on Flores inspired me to explore that island back in 2017. I look forward to reading about your onward travels in Java. Happy Trails!

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