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Asia » Indonesia » Java » Yogyakarta
February 26th 2007
Published: March 11th 2007
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I've just had an amazing experience and it all began with a simple motorbike ride. A local Balanise man took me on the back of his motorbike to the shops. From there we visited two small villages, ate stuffed pig in a local market and went to his family home. Afterwards we arranged to watch baraong and trance dancing, which is a series of dances that depict the struggle of good versus evil. This dance is an integral part of their village culture and is most definitely not for tourists.

As I sat there in my traditional dress I was completely overwhelmed by what I saw and felt. I was both intrigued and apprehensive, then stunned, bemused and finally scared. As I watched the evil dancers fall into a trance I honestly felt terrified of them, but it's what happened to people in the crowd that really took my breath away.

As the dance heightened people in the audience fell into a trance and became enraged with anger wanting to kill the evil dancers. I was sat right next to someone who fell into a trance. First he started swaying and suddenly he jumped up screaming. Immediately 10 men lunged towards him and pinned him to the ground. Trust me it needed 10 people. This happened to 5 or so people (including the security guard). Once pinned to the ground they don't come out of the trance. First an area is cleared and the enraged men are allowed to charge. As they run they're given eggs, black chicken and arak and run through fire. Because these things symbolise the good god once they touch them they fall out of the trance. They fall out as suddenly as they fell in and basically collapse in a heap.

Please watch the videos even though they're really dark because they is no way my writing did this experience justice. If you can download the videos you might be able to brighten them in media player.

......The motorbike trip lead to another once in a lifetime experience. I attended a celebration for the son of the Balanese man because he'd reached 6 months old. This took place in the village they were all born in, so I hopped in the family car and went along. Their family home was buried in a Forrest with coconut, durian and mango trees towering round
A local cocktailA local cocktailA local cocktail

Some sap from a coconut tree mixed with beer. It seemed to do the trick anyway!
it. I threw myself into the celebration, tucking into the stuffed pig and drinking some unknown home-brewed spirit. Their catch phrase 'take it easy' pretty much sums it up. The experience taught me a lot about family life and I was touched by the respect Indonesians hold for everyone in their community. Enjoy the pics because there are some amazing characters in them!

After Padang Bai I met up with my mate, martin, from uni and headed to Gili Trawangan, which is a tinny island. It's so small they use horse and cart instead of cars. Martin and I met two really cool couples and spent our time chilling with them. Indonesia is supposed to have some of the best diving in the world so I thought I'd give it another shot after the miserable weather I got last time. However, my luck continued and I ended up going diving during a thunder storm! Having said that it didn't really affect the dive and the visibility was on par with a swimming pool! I could see for 30 meters underwater! I saw loads of turtles and my first shark! I wasn't scared of the shark in the slightest (mind you he was swimming away from me) he actually reminded me of a dog. Off to Australia now - bye bye!

Oh before I forget can someone help me with my little experiment? I want to find out whether the water does in fact swirl in the opposite direction below the equator, but I've got two obstacles in my way. 1) I can't remember which way it goes in England (this is where you come in) 2) I haven't found a toilet with a flush in Indonesia (I'll just have to wait for nice developed Australia).


Additional photos below
Photos: 23, Displayed: 23


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The hostessThe hostess
The hostess

That's actually her hair, it's one giant dread. Up close you can actually see the dread change from black to brown and finally grey.
WatsonWatson
Watson

Only a few of you will get this, but it's funny to me anyway!
Evil DancerEvil Dancer
Evil Dancer

It got too dark to take pictures after this, but later another dancer came out who looked far more evil.
Nap timeNap time
Nap time

He'd just fallen out of a trance. I know what you're thinking: you see people like that every friday night.
Good DancerGood Dancer
Good Dancer

You'll just have to take my word for it.
A True cultural experienceA True cultural experience
A True cultural experience

I blew about 5,000 gambling or put another way about 25p - crazy times!
Showing under the drain pipe!Showing under the drain pipe!
Showing under the drain pipe!

I fell on hard times.
Our LocalOur Local
Our Local

The two couples Martin and I met were a great laugh! We had a brilliant time with you!
Our Local's tip bucketOur Local's tip bucket
Our Local's tip bucket

It says it all.
A goatA goat
A goat

This was taken about 10 meters from the harbour, which is exactly the place you expect to find a goat in a bin!
Safely Check Anyone?Safely Check Anyone?
Safely Check Anyone?

I think I know why boats sink and planes go missing with alarmingly regularity in Indonesia.


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