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Published: March 11th 2007
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Yogya was a cool city with some great characters. Most notably a university lecturer who started talking to me straight after all the market sellers has driven me mad. He explained the 'spices' of life as 'speaking, tasting, and joking' and then directed me to a government owned batik (Indonesia's traditional fabric painting) workshop. Obviously I got lost, but another friendly local (with the world's biggest smile because his wife had just given birth to a baby girl) found the time to help me even though he was rushing home to plan a party.
I didn't see many sites in yogja because when I ventured out everything was closed. I did manage to see the palace even though it was locked because another friendly local guided me across roof tops to give me a birds eye view, which is surely better!
After Yogya I visited Probolingo, which is the home of Mt Bromo, one of the most spectacular natrual sites I've seen.
The day I visited Mt Bromo I woke up at 4am, hopped in my 4x4 and watched the sun rise over the 4 active volcanoes - simply awesome! Afterwards I climbed Mt Bromo and looked into
its crater - incredibly smelly!
On top of Bromo I met an English guy who told me about a dive site that had 35 meters visibility. So as soon as I'd climbed down the mountain I jumped on a local bus (10hours) a ferry (30mins) and another bus (2 hours) to see if this was true. Sadly my luck with freak ( i.e rubbish) diving conditions continued and it was down to 10 meters. But I'm far from disappointed. Read my next blog for my coolest experience yet!
Sorry the pictures and videos will be uploaded as soon as I can find a PC with a DVD drive. Who would have thought I'd have trouble in Oz? Oz is going great by the way!
I've just had an amazing experience and it all began with a simple motorbike ride. A local Balanise man took me on the back of his motorbike to the shops. From there we visited two small villages, ate stuffed pig in a local market and went to his family home. Afterwards we arranged to watch baraong and trance dancing, which is a series of dances that depict the struggle of good versus
Me superimposed on Mt Bromo
Looking as good as I do here doesn't come easy! It requires months of travelling and with it loads of late nights and early mornings! evil. This dance is an integral part of their village culture and is most definitely not for tourists.
As I sat there in my traditional dress I was completely overwhelmed by what I saw and felt. I was both intrigued and apprehensive, then stunned, bemused and finally scared. As I watched the evil dancers fall into a trance I honestly felt terrified of them, but it's what happened to people in the crowd that really took my breath away.
As the dance heightened people in the audience fell into a trance and became enraged with anger wanting to kill the evil dancers. I was sat right next to someone who fell into a trance. First he started swaying and suddenly he jumped up screaming. Immediately 10 men lunged towards him and pinned him to the ground. Trust me it needed 10 people. This happened to 5 or so people (including the security guard). Once pinned to the ground they don't come out of the trance. First an area is cleared and the enraged men are allowed to charge. As they run they're given eggs, black chicken and arak and run through fire. Because these things symbolise the good
Smelly Crater!
Yes, I am as scared as I look! god once they touch them they fall out of the trance. They fall out as suddenly as they fell in and basically collapse in a heap.
Please watch the videos even though they're really dark because they is no way my writing did this experience justice. If you can download the videos you might be able to brighten them in media player.
......The motorbike trip lead to another once in a lifetime experience. I attended a celebration for the son of the Balanese man because he'd reached 6 months old. This took place in the village they were all born in, so I hopped in the family car and went along. Their family home was buried in a Forrest with coconut, durian and mango trees towering round it. I threw myself into the celebration, tucking into the stuffed pig and drinking some unknown home-brewed spirit. Their catch phrase 'take it easy' pretty much sums it up. The experience taught me a lot about family life and I was touched by the respect Indonesians hold for everyone in their community. Enjoy the pics because there are some amazing characters in them!
After Padang Bai I met up with
my mate, martin, from uni and headed to Gili Trawangan, which is a tinny island. It's so small they use horse and cart instead of cars. Martin and I met two really cool couples and spent our time chilling with them. Indonesia is supposed to have some of the best diving in the world so I thought I'd give it another shot after the miserable weather I got last time. However, my luck continued and I ended up going diving during a thunder storm! Having said that it didn't really affect the dive and the visibility was on par with a swimming pool! I could see for 30 meters underwater! I saw loads of turtles and my first shark! I wasn't scared of the shark in the slightest (mind you he was swimming away from me) he actually reminded me of a dog. Off to Australia now - bye bye!
Oh before I forget can someone help me with my little experiment? I want to find out whether the water does in fact swirl in the opposite direction below the equator, but I've got two obstacles in my way. 1) I can't remember which way it goes in England
An old lava path.
Well not that old. This little fella last erupted in 1996. I learnt that not-so-comforting fact while I was walking around the crater..... (this is where you come in) 2) I haven't found a toilet with a flush in Indonesia (I'll just have to wait for nice developed Australia).
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Clare
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OMG Charlie - where do you find these people?? It sounds like you're having a wicked time - really good to hear:-) Big hugs! C x