Train Journey From Hell

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Train Journey From Hell

Blog 10 Tuesday/Wednesday 12/12.17

We left Puja Guesthouse in Varanasi at about 11am. Farewells all round, everyone friendly and wishing us well. Got 3 porters (2 from hotel staff) to carry our luggage to a place where tuk-tuks could drive. Then we got 3 tuck-tucks (they are called auto-rickshaws over here) to Varanasi Junction Train Station which seems to be in the process of a major refurb, so half knocked down. Then 3 porters to carry our bags up the stairs and down to Platform 4, arriving there around noon.



Then the nightmare began. Our train was delayed initially by 2 hours, but as 14.30 approached it was pushed back again to 15.00, 15.45 and finally 16.10 which was the last info we got. It did appear around that time, leaving at 16.30 with us all aboard. This was now 4 hours late! We had taken turns going to the cafe etc. but 4 hours was a very long wait on a bare platform, guarding our luggage, with nowhere to sit…



At least on the train, and we had 6 seats. But even here we had problems – one of our seats was under a middle bunk on which a man was sleeping (although rules dictate that beds go down from 10pm-6am and this was at 4.30pm) Mal started arguing with him, but he wasn’t moving (pleading that he could not understand this crazy white woman). I persuaded her to let him be as we all had seats anyway and if needed our beds were free – 4 top bunks, 1 middle & 1 lower. Esmee slept first of course and went on a top bunk. Shirl managed to crawl onto another top one. Mal was offered a bottom bunk by a guy but refused as the guy’s wife was looking daggers at her. I grabbed the middle bunk, leaving Bill, Mal & Rocco sharing our only bottom bunk. After a few hours I got up and, after Rocco had fallen asleep, we managed to get him onto the middle bunk. Mal was sleeping, leaning forward with her head resting on the small padded ladder for getting on top bunks, but occassionally there was a sympathetic vibration to this ladder which shuddered in response, bashing Mals forehead repeatedly. As she seemed unaware of the problem, I tried holding the ladder whenever it happened, cusioning the blows somewhat (but she did complain of a sore head when she woke up).



Our problem now was when we would arrive, I stayed up with Bill and we talked to stay awake. Each time the guard came past he gave us a different arrival time at our small station, Umaria. I knew it was about an hour from the large station at Katni (from whence we would be leaving) and eventually Katni did appear, and Umaria at 5.40 (meaning our 9.5 hour journey took 13.5 hours – and was 4 hours late arriving). But at last we were here and a large, posh taxi was here to meet us and take us the 30min drive to Skays Camp in the village of Tala on the edge of Bandavagahr jungle. At last.

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Comments

[Pedro]

It's India alright
Sounds more like a adventure than nightmare. At least no complaints about health issues. Enjoy every moment and see you in the new year

[Janice]

Oh dear!
There seem to be slightly too many blogs containing "then the nightmare began" !!! Hope that the bits in between the nightmares are making it worthwhile!

[DickDiamond]

We are lurching from one nightmare to another Jan, but the in between bits make up for it. That's India. Our nightmares would be others lottery win!