Onwards to Varanasi

---

Onwards to Varanasi!

On arrival me and Rhavi went to sort out my bloody train ticket - which we got sorted within 30 minutes. I had to cancel my existing one and then book a new ticket for a faster and earlier train; it was the one I had originally tried to book on 5 weeks ago but couldn't because it was full. Unbelievable.

So with the train ticket sorted I felt much better. So we headed out into the town for orientation. That said, I don't think I had my bearing right for the entire time I was there! We went on a boat ride to the middle of a fork where three rivers meet - although the ganges is the only one I remember the name of! It was very spectacular but very dirty. I wouldn't have enjoyed bathing in the water like so many locals seemed to be!

Following that it was time for some Western food. So far I still haven't felt any ill effects from the food so I concluded that I've got a stomach of steel after my problems in Cambodia last year, but a lot of the others weren't feeling great... so where else do you go but Pizza Hut. It made me so happy. The food, restaurant and staff were identical to the UK except the food was a fraction of the price. I think its good to have a break from the local cuisine every once in a while because it makes you appreciate (sometimes crave) your next local meal.
It was a very wild cyclo ride to the restaurant and considering these guys were peddling for 3 people over about 10km for under a quid we all tipped them very well. I don't think they would have agreed to take us had they known just how far it was. But anyway, the race was on and they were sweating like nothing I've seen before. Unfortunately we lost first place right at the end when one of the others took a risky shortcut down the other side of the road.

It was an early start on our second day in Varanasi with a sunrise boat trip along the river Ganges which proved to be a roller coaster of emotions. Drifting down the holy river away from the hustle and bustle of Varanasi was a welcome relief - although by the end there were a few touts who had mini supermarkets set up in boats who wouldn't stop pestering us (expecting you to pay diamond prices for cut glass). Our two rowers were remarkably fit, and informative. The number of people bathing in the rancid water was concerning; the spread of disease must be rife. It terrifies me that I had actually drank some of this supposed 'Holy Water' at one of the temple blessings. 😞 Oh well.
So aside from the pollution in the water and the calm of early morning we had to deal with the burning ghats; this is the place where people cremate their relatives on open pyres before casting their ashes into the Ganges. We weren't allowed to take photos here (which should have occurred to everyone out of respect anyway) but it was still difficult for me to be present. It almost seemed that as tourists we were making a show out of a families loss and grief. I discussed this issue with the group and Rhavi quite a bit later and came to realise that the way people out here deal with death is much better than we do in Western culture. We seem to keep death very private and hidden away whereas this culture encourages you to accept death as a part of life. It seems to make dealing grief and loss much easier. It also made me feel a little better about having been prying at the burning ghats earlier that morning.

That afternoon there was plenty of time to explore everything that Varanasi had to offer - surprisingly little. If Varanasi had been the first Indian city I had visited then I'm sure I would have felt different but I am sick of how 'in your face' people can be; it boarders on rude! I spent most of the afternoon with Christine, Kim and Becket acting as a bodyguard because for women (especially Christine and Becket being a little older) the touts are relentless and persistent.
We all went to the cinema to watch 'Heroes' which was fun but the worst of the three Bollywood films I've so far watched; it followed the story of two college kids who needed to produce a film to pass their course. It tracks their journey delivering final letters from recently deceased people from the army. It sounds much better than it was - the best scene (rather disturbingly) was when a paraplegic had to fight off about 20 ninja people at a club when one of them touched his girlfriend.

That evening we headed back to the river for a flower ceremony. We all expected to cast a candle out from the shoreline but Rhavi had something a little more impressive in mind. We once again got on the boat and drifted down the Ganges letting go 251 candles between the 13 of us. It was an awesome sight to see and one of those unforgettable magical moments. When you release each candle to the river you make a wish or say a prayer - clearly Rhavi thought that we all had plenty to wish for!
It was also time for a final group meal before various people - including me - departed for different destinations. A few of the people have booked flights back to Delhi instead of the over night sleeper train. As much as I hate the overnight trains I think its all part of the experience of India.
After food Rhavi introduced me to another Intrepid group leader and his bunch of travelers because they were meant to be at Mughal Surai train station at the same time as me the following day. Unfortunately their train time was altered so it was up to me to deal with the Indian train network by myself - a terrifying thought! I got an auto-rickshaw to the station (about 20km) for 200rs (2.50 pounds) but is was an epic journey... I've said it before and I'll say it again; I hate the roads in India (although calling them roads doesn't really give them justice!). At the station I clearly looked like a lost and alone traveler despite having found the correct platform and a family called me over to sit with them in the restaurant. Language barrier aside we still managed to communicate quite well and I spent close to an hour describing my trip and showing their young girl all the pictures on my camera. The Dosa I had there was the biggest possible - it could have fed the 5,000 with left overs. I was amazed that my train was the only one that seemed to be running on time; that didn't last long. Venturing out on to the platform 20 minutes before the train was due a student came and started talking to me. He (Ravit) was very well educated and we had no problems discussing out lives, India, politics and everything else under the sun whilst our train was continually delayed. He is studying Engineering in Sikkim (a state North of Darjeeling where I intend to travel for a few days after my volunteer work) and was in Varanasi visiting his father who had been taken ill. He prevented me from getting on the complete wrong train so I owe him my life! Our train arrived 2 hours late which was good going considering some were delayed for 7+ hours.
I had that day made arrangements to meet Chitra - the i-to-i coordinator in Darjeeling - at 11.30am at Bagdogra airport the next day. My train was due in at 8.20am so anymore delays over night could really screw over my plans. I also met a Dutch couple (the only other Westerners at the station) who were in the carriage next to me and arranged to stay in contact as we both expect to be in Kathmandu at the same time in December. It's this part of traveling outside of a tour group that I love. Within a couple of hours I've already bumped into new and exciting people which you're somewhat shut off from when on a private tour.

The train journey was no-where near as hideous as first expected. I slept hugging both of my bags and so if things had been stolen the thief deserved them for his effort and ability. The train arrived at 11.30 in New Jaligurai and I met up again with Ravit who kindly leant me his phone to call Chitra who was going to wait for me to get to the airport.

I can already see the snow topped mountains of the Himalayas... they look amazing and I can't wait to get to Darjeeling!

---