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Published: April 24th 2007
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I left Kolkata on March 16th, exactly a month from when i arrived in and started with CRAWL. Since then i've really had alot of mixed emotions on what i'd seen and experienced.
I think i'll leave this topic for after i get home - which is when i think i'll find it easier to straighten my thoughts....in the meantime, in case you're interested in visiting the site and taking a look at the current projects there, check www.crawlsocity.org.
As for now - I want to start with the word i've decided best sums up India....
And this word is community.
When i first thought about India (before arriving) I had this vision of a really disorderly place where nothing could ever be done efficiently and where long lines of people adorn every entranceway to any sort of train ticket booth, attraction, hotel desk etc....
I was right (obviously ; )
HOWEVER - i have yet to find this way of life stressful, and the reason, i think, is due to the fact that Indian people help each other (as well as tourists) to make these realities a little easier to swallow.
On the train, for instance,
there is a specific order for getting on, finding a seat and getting off. Althogh there is alot of pushing, punching (side-effect of the pushing) and yelling, but, no one gets angry...no one feels more entitled to a better spot/seat....no one complains. They work together to help everyone on and make sure that any luggage/small children gets put on the provided racks...or...on some complete strangers lap.
In the beginning i assumed that there were always large groups of friends travelling together (at home, no stranger would offer to hold your bag/son if you had to stand on public transport), but quickly realized that it's the nature of the people.
I think the western world could learn alot from this...
Varanasi. I'll start here.
After leaving Kolkata it was on to Varanasi with Juila and her newly arrived friend, Joke (
Yo-kuh). The three of us were really amazed at the holy city, and enjoyed people-watching the most out of it all. As we learned, Hindus come from all over India (and the world) to bathe in the filthy Ganges river.
Aside from this ritual, the Ganges in Varanasi is also the most auspicious place for a Hindu person
to be cremated since when this is done, the spirit of the deceased is freed from the cycle of rebirth,
moksha.
While in the city, we did have the chance to watch a few funeral pyres burn - which to me wasn't as gruesome as it sounds - i found that because it is so different from how we do things, it was easier to detach from what was happening before my eyes...oh, except when the "fire-poking-boy" shoved his bamboo pole in the flames only to simulateously lift up an arm which seemed to wave at ME...but other than that - detached.
Of course, in true touristy-Indian-city style, a man approached us as we watched and "offered" all this information to us...........which later lead to visiting his "uncle's" silk shop and ultimately eating at his "brother's" restaurant and ultimately paying him the measly 30 Rupees that later "went to the poor" (disguised clevery as his right-hand pocket.)
I have to say we kindof knew this was happening as it did - but the history and information was worth it.
Leaving Varanasi was bitersweet for me as that is when i had to say goodbye to the others
(Julia and i had gotten close) and head to Agra for the Taj Mahal.
As my train conveniently became 4 hours late, i got a little too relaxed and as we pulled into the station, i had to jump up from my book, quickly get my things and get off.
Ever since the whole "robbery" incident i am quite careful...this time i had locks and chains pretty much all over the place...some say excessive, i say safe.
Anyway, my hugeback-pack was padlocked under the bottom seat - no problem, i went for the key (kept in my money belt...) aaaaaaaannnd, it was gone.
Shit.
I was shaking. I frantically started asking everyone if they had scissors or a blade, but of course, no one had anything.
Double Shit.
Community....there's that word again....
Suddenly, more than five turbaned men surrounded me - looked at my bag and thankfully one said "wait here" (thanks for the tip).
A minute later he returned with not a blade....not a pair of scissors...not even a pair of garden shears...but instead wielded a
four-foot iron pole. ...
Now was the time i wished i was religious. Between looking out for the
train police (which, by the way carry a loaded machine gun), i watched as the men (three at a time, to be exact) JUMPED on the pole that was wrenched into the loop holding my lock-&-chain (think - See Saw).
They cheered, they laughed...i laughed....i actually started cheering....and suddenly the seat ripped out and my bag was FREED! Holy mother of....Ganesh. I've never ran that fast IN MY LIFE. I felt like a crazy person - laughing hysterically as i made my way to the station's exit.....with a two foot chain banging against my legs with every bound. Not obvious at all.
What a day -i met a nice British couple who shared a rickshaw to a guesthouse with me and as i walked up the stairs to my room i felt so happy to have gotten there.
Agra is not much of a place to hang out, but the Taj Mahal was something i didn't want to miss.
Excited for my next-day trip to the famous tomb, the only thing that broke the silence of the stairwell was what sounded like wind chimes...a few stairs later i realized the sound was coming from
me...sure enought, it was
the Burning Ghat
This is the largest of two such ghats along the river. They proceed with funerals all day and up to 200 bodies are burned per 24 hour period. keys - sitting comfortably in the cuff of my stupid Laurence-of-Arabia pants.
Phew. Hope that train seat isn't missed....
I'd love to fill you in on other such stories, but I am currently in Jodhpur battling my last day of food poisoning (took me three days to write this "masterpiece") - so, the rest will have to wait until Goa (decided to fly there, relax and meet up with the Brits from Agra).
Can't wait!!
Still having a great adventure....don't be fooled ; )
Love,
R
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Age and Kym
Adrian and Kym
Always finding trouble
Keep up the blogs they are awesome. Have you done any photography courses before because your shots are amazing. Anyway enjoy the ass end of your travels and keep in touch