Third Course: Scrumptious

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Geo: 26.9847, 78.1019

We left Jaipur at 8am on Sunday morning. We had over 200kms to travel to our next stop, Agra. It was another clear sunny, warm day and the traffic was not so busy. The trip would prove to be far easier and more relaxing than the previous one.

Our driver first stopped about two hours into the journey at a local Hindu Temple. We all spent about 20 minutes exploring this place. It was very colourful with many worshippers, mainly women and children, paying homage to the gods. They seemed to be making offerings of puffed rice and small white flowers. They walked around the altar in a clockwise direction several times and then sat down. They were very welcoming and the children gathered around us waving and saying "Bye-bye."

From there we travelled onwards on reasonable roads, stopping at Toll Gates. The villages we passed through were busy with many families parading in their most colourful saris and outfits. The trucks were numerous, parked at the laybys and in front of the small food stalls. About 1pm we stopped at a Hotel for lunch. This was a modern place but built in traditional style. We went upstairs to a large dining-room where the now familiar buffet awaited us. The main meat dish here was Tandoori chicken with several vegetable dishes and the usual rice and daal. Tasty and filling washed down with the Kingfisher beer.

The villages here seemed to specialise in their products. One had numerous places selling sandstone pottery creations including carved animals and temple decorations. We stopped at one for a look. The next had numerous brick kilns, their towers rising high into the air. It probably has to do with the location of materials for these things.

Our next major stop was at the fort called Fatehpur Sikri or City of Victory. This was built by Akbar, the grandfather of Shah Jahn who built the Taj Mahal. This is a red sandstone fort which is about 40km from Agra. We had to leave the bus at the bottom of the hillside and then ride in the government bus which cost 40 rupees for the two way trip. Once at the top we disembarked and our local guide, Ali, took us through the large gates and into the complex. Within the high walls, including a 55 metre gate, lay several buildings, one of which is a marble tomb for the Sufi saint, Salim, who blessed Akbar and prophesied that a son would be born soon. When this happened Akbar built the city in thanks. We had to take off our shoes and the red sandstone was very hot underfoot. The marble, however, was cool and welcoming. Inside the marble building was the tomb and if you bought a piece of cloth and flowers you could tie a thread to the screens and make a wish which was sure to come true. I didn't bother.

We then walked to the Mosque which is open-air like in Delhi and very similar in decoration and style. We were hounded by mostly children whom we tried to ignore, trying to sell us various goods. We walked through the huge main gate and admired the view out over the valley then a walk back around the cloisters to the front entrance. It was an interesting stop and the architecture is grand and detailed but the annoying hawkers rather spoiled the atmosphere.

Our final leg took us into the city. The road got worse as we came closer and the traffic, heavier. We crawled through a narrow market area teeming with people, motorbikes and cars and finally arrived at our Hotel, Clark Shiraz. This is a 5 star complex, set in large and attractive gardens. We were met by our local agent and assigned rooms. We were told that tomorrow morning we needed to leave for the Taj Mahal at 5-45am to be there for sunrise and to beat the crowds. We spent the evening pleasantly, having a drink with our fellow travellers and then dinner in the Buffet of the hotel but an early night was needed.

The alarm awoke us at 5am and we were in the lobby by 5-35. It was only a short trip in the dark to the Taj. From where the bus dropped us it was a 500 metre walk along a brick paved road as the sky gradually lightened. There were many others walking the same path. Our guide, Atul, bought us tickets which included a free bottle of water and we were then herded into what looked like cattle runs, women on one side and men on the other, to pass through security and be frisked. The gates were open at 6-20am and we shuffled forward and pushed and were jostled until we reached the security lady who quickly brushed us down and we passed through.

We walked through another entrance gate through which we could see the outline of this iconic building and then emerged into the now growing daylight to see the edifice in all its majestic glory. As the sun rose the white marble glowed and subtly changed colours. Atul introduced us to an official photographer who came with us and took photos of the group and individual couples which would be waiting for us after our visit. Then Atul launched into the story behind the building of the Taj. By this time it was nearly 7-15 and several of us were impatient to get going so we agreed on a time to meet again and we set off on our own to explore. The gardens surrounding the building are peaceful and even though there were many people there it did not feel crowded. No hawkers inside was a blessing. We climbed up onto the marble platform about half way and took photos including ones with the reflection in the water channel in front. Then it was onto the main building itself. The closer we approached, the more beautiful it became as we were able to see the exquisite detail of the decorations.

We put covers on our shoes and walked up the steps to the entrance. The view back to the entrance was grand and up close the walls of the Taj gleamed white. The colours of the inlays all done using semi-precious stones glowed in the morning light. The flower panels carved into the marble were all unique, each different but perfect in design. We went into the mausoleum to see where Shah Jahn's wife, Mumtaz Mahal was buried. She died in childbirth, delivering her 14th child in 18 years!! Shah Jahn was devastated and hence built this amazing structure. He lies next to her having died 35 years later. Inside was unlit except for a single silver lamp in the centre. The darkness and the closeness with so many people vying to see the coffins was stifling. We walked all round this central room and saw the stone coffins lying side by side decorated beautifully.

Outside of this inner chamber we could walk around another passage lined with screened windows. We emerged into the now bright sunshine. On either side of the Taj are two similar buildings each facing the other built in the red sandstone so favoured elsewhere. Looking at the Taj the one on the left is a mosque and I am not sure of the purpose of the other. The river runs across the back of the complex and we walked around the outside and explored both buildings. We were amused watching the monkeys playing on the scaffolding of the eastern side which is being cleaned.

From there we slowly walked back to the meeting place and the rest of the group gathered there at 8-30. Then it was time to leave this magic place and return to the hotel for breakfast. Our photos turned out so well we bought all of them.

We left the hotel again at 10-30 and our first stop was at a stone cutting workshop where they use the time honoured methods seen in the decoration of the Taj. We were shown how they do the inlays and then taken to the shop where we eventually bought a beautiful marble plate with a traditional design.

From there we drove to the Agra Fort. This is another of the red sandstone buildings built by the Moghul emperors. This one was started by Akbar in 1565. We entered through the main gate, Amar Singh. As we walked up Atul pointed out the slits in the walls for cannon,archers and boiling oil. It is surrounded by a moat which was filled with crocodiles. As we walked in we were shown the areas where the elephants would have been kept and the long entrance pathway which was an extra security element. This fort had two functions, It was a palace for Akbar and his descendants and a military stronghold. The British took it over in the late 19th century and now the Indian Army occupies over half of it.

The section we saw was the marble buildings constructed by Shah Jahn for himself, his wife and daughters, Of the 14 children only 6 survived. The youngest son got rid of his older brothers but the two daughters were looked after here. We went inside the room where Shah Jahn was imprisoned by his son and where he died. This was again marble, inlaid with beautiful patterns just like the Taj. The middle room was the bedchamber in which the 14 children were conceived, The remains of the lavish decoration are still here but only one corner has been restored to show the amazing gold leaf which covered the room. Either side of this are the rooms for the daughters, small but beautiful in their design and decoration.The last room we visited was the Hindu Palace dedicated to Shah Jahn's mother-in-law where Hindu decoration and text can be seen. The Moghuls were Islamic but they incorporated many Hindu and Christian symbols into their architecture.
It was very impressive and we enjoyed the visit. We returned to the hotel for lunch and then had the rest of the day to ourselves. This was pleasant as we have been very busy up to now so a relaxing afternoon ensued.
So far we have thoroughly enjoyed our experiences with the highlight no doubt, the Taj Mahal.

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