Sarah & Louise – Three weeks in India (Part 1)

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Delhi

So the long wait is over and S & L arrive at Delhi International Airport on their Etihad flight via Abu Dhabi on time at 3.10 am, which means we have had to get up very early to meet them here with a cab from the Hotel Maan K where we are staying in Karol Bagh. Rs 750 + Parking (Rs140) seemed reasonable to us.

It’s great to see them and we hope they will have a great time in India with us. After a short kip the girls are ready to hit (gently) the streets of Delhi. Inevitably they are suffering from jet lag so we plan an easy day for them. First a trip on the Delhi Metro (with a no smoking, no drinking and no eating policy + Air Con – London has a lot to learn!) to Chandni Chowk to see the Jama Masjid.

It’s Rs 300 for entry with a camera. Nothing without – although they will try it on for those who don’t know and the charge seems to apply only to foreign visitors not the locals. Also the 300 seems to be something new as the tickets are overwritten on the original 200 price. For a place of worship to operate this way seems to be totally counter to the values of the faith. Perhaps it’s all about Manna these days!!! Pathetic really especially as the place looks like it has not been looked after – it’s pretty tired and looks a poor imitation of its former self and it’s definitely is not worth the entry price for the camera. The Mosque elders really need to take a long hard look at this and the “entry pricing” system.

As it’s getting late in the afternoon & the girls are tired we skip the planned Red Fort visit and go to Connaught Place (now known as Rajiv Chowk) for something to eat. To show the girls some of M’s childhood places we go to the United Coffee House for lunch. It’s 3 pm and yet the place is full and we have to queue.

Somehow, the centre of Delhi doesn’t look quite as chaotic as it was when we were here a couple of months ago. Not sure much has changed – maybe we have just got more accustomed to the chaos and it all appears normal, calmer and “serene” (if one could ever use this word to describe anything in any big city in India).

However, it was worth the short wait – the place has had a refit of sorts but looks still pretty retro, the staff a lot smarter and the whole place was buzzing. The food was really good and whilst the prices have gone up - for the centre of Delhi this was fab grub. We promised to come back for our last night’s dinner here before the girls leave for London.

The next day we set off for Humayun’s Tomb by Metro – the idea was to do the South Delhi highlights. The place was packed and looked pretty impressive (it’s supposed to be the original on which Taj Mahal was modelled and you can see why).

We decided to walk the Delhi Zoo (which on the map looks close by – no such luck) to see the white tiger and a few other interesting animals kept here. M spent many a birthday here with family and friends + his Mum’s awesome picnics in the grounds. It’s flanked by the Purana Quila which adds something to the area. However, the sign posting was pretty ropey and we got lost quite a few times.

The walk was a bit long and we went past Sunder Bazar (fancy area – a bit like Shanti Niketan where Tony & Parul live). We stumble onto a small shack (Kamal’s) doing a host of street food, packed with locals so we sit down for some good food. The girls loved it – gol guppa, aloo tikki chaat, chole batura etc.

At the Zoo the highlights are a dirty white tiger (found at last after many blind alleys), sloth bears, an Asiatic Lion, an African Lion, elephants, giraffes etc – all in very good nick.

Next it’s onto India Gate by Metro which is packed with day trippers come to see the sun set here. The long road down Rajpath leads to the Houses of Parliament and preparations are well under way for the Republic day celebrations on the 26^th Jan’13. We notice that they now have battery operated smaller Tuk Tuks plying up and down Rajpath.

Next day, it’s time to visit the Red Fort (Rs 250 per person entry as are most monuments in India for foreign visitors). The girls enjoy the trip however, M & C are pretty disappointed, M more so. The place is in terrible decay – it has none of the charm, beauty and presence of what it looked like even 15 years ago when we came here last and definitely not a patch on what it was when M saw it as a boy.

In our view, the place is not worth visiting in its current state and definitely not worth the entry fee. The sad fact is that poor management of local tourists have caused the demise of what was once a beautiful sight – even with all the “security” around Indian visitors were trampling all over the site venturing into forbidden areas. It’s their heritage and they disrespect it at their peril.

After the disappointing start and a fruitless traipse around Chandi Chowk looking for a recommended place to eat, we go to Rajiv Chowk for lunch at Nizams. It’s a local institution for Muslim food – pretty awesome if a bit greasy (very according to C who didn’t enjoy it at all) kathi kababs. Mutton, chicken or fish, reasonable prices and packed out with locals despite the competition – new in town – Mc Donalds which was heaving with customers (99%!l(MISSING)ocals)

The girls want to get some shopping so we venture into Palika bazar – an underground AC market in the centre of Rajiv Chowk that sells anything you can think of. It’s huge and like a maze so we soon run out of steam but at least they managed to get some bargain trousers.

Finally we head to the Qutab Minar, in the very south of the City. This is the absolute highlight of the day – a tall Muslim victory tower and minaret dating back to the 12^th century, in grounds with various temples and tombs. Although we get there late in the afternoon we spend almost 2 hours wandering, taking pics and just enjoying what is a very tranquil place despite the number of visitors.

Exhausted we head back to the hotel and try the local branch of Karims in Karol Bagh rather than heading back to Chandi Chowk again. It does good kebabs and biryani but we suspect the original is better.

Next day we have an early flight to Varanasi from Delhi domestic airport for the next leg of S&L’s trip. We’ve been pretty impressed with both the International Terminal 3 & Domestic Travel Terminal 1 which won 2^nd place in Airports based on customer service – dealing with 11.4m people a year. Well done. They’re organised, clean and have good shops and facilities – part of the new modern India.

Travellers Tip:

Beware the Metro Ticket sellers who delay passing on the last 10 rupees or whatever note in the hope that as a tourist you don’t realise. And always check the published price next to the ticket window to make sure you are not overcharged – another scam they try by flagging up a higher fare then charge the real fare and pocket the difference.

Whilst the Metro is a brilliant addition to Delhi transport system, the down side is the local folk’s inability to wait to board when a train stops. Despite all the announcements and guards trying to get folk to let people off first, they can’t resist pushing on so it all ends in mayhem. We’re sure some do it on purpose as a form of game!! Anyhow, after one grope too many we decide the answer is to take advantage of the dedicated women’s carriage at the front of every train. Still gets packed but not so mad. M has to fight with the masses in the neighbouring carriage but we have a much nicer travelling experience.

Toilets can be found at every Metro station and most tourist sites managed by “The Sulabh Toilet Complex” who charge only Rs 2 and they look after the loo’s pretty well. They do this all over India and even have a Museum in Delhi. India would be a far worse & unhygienic place to travel were it not for their efforts and we think they need a big congratulations and support.

As a general guide expect to pay Rs 20 per km for Tuk Tuks in India or go to prepaid counters in Delhi.

Varanasi

The Spice Jet flight (our first and we are impressed) to the Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport in Varanasi takes about 1 hour. We are knocked out by the new modern airport which is such a world away from the one we used to go to Nepal 5 years ago. We had pre-arranged a pick up for Rs 800 from The Ganpati Guest House – our place in the city on the river at Meer Ghat. Just as well as we have to walk the last 10 mins via back alley ways & would never have found our way without the Guest House staff who helped with the luggage and directions.

Varanasi seems to have a lot more security around especially at the old city main lanes and the Ghat entrance points. There are many reasons for this (communal tension, the large amount of gold in a Hindu Temple in the centre, the threat of terrorism etc) but is possibly comforting to visitors.

The Ganpati Guest House is a great choice of place and we would recommend it to anyone. It has a great location and an awesome vibe; feels like a really relaxed travellers pad. Very colourful, with embroidered wall hangings – elephants and Buddha’s. Staff are friendly. There is a Roof top restaurant with great views down the river – or is it up? We never did find out – too busy having fun and taking pictures.

After some lunch at the Ganpati we wander around a bit, sightseeing and take S&L to see the burning ghats, where cremations take place in the open by the riverside. It’s all very in your face. We notice queues of bodies with their families – the more wealthy the family the more ornate the floral decorations on the body (which are then very unceremoniously dumped in the river when the body is put on the funeral pyre and become fodder for the cows!). What we are surprised to learn is that young children, women out of wedlock etc are not cremated; their bodies are dumped with a weight in the river. Wow – so much for religious fairness!

(Travellers tip: Beware the guys who claim to be from the local Hospice and try and get friendly with local information or offer to take you to a close spot where you can take pictures or get a better view – all they are after is your money. They have no credentials.)

For C & M Varanasi seems much calmer and nicer and we are sure this is because of our location – last time we stayed at the University which was a long haul away.

We negotiate a Sunset boat ride with Gopal (4 generations of boat making on the river) for Rs 50 each. We are rowed towards the main Ghat area and await the sunset which is pretty nice.

The next big thing is the evening Aarti which lasts about 40 minutes and is very impressive (a really well choreographed performance by sadhus from the temple). It’s pretty awesome and unlike any other aarti we have witnessed in India or Nepal. We’d recommend folks to visit – it’s free although donations are welcome but there is no hard sell like Haridwar.

We head into town for dinner, after first tracking down the locally recommended rabri stall to satisfy M’s desire. Then we find a great place (Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan) doing chaat so we get a selection – aloo tikki, aloo papdi chaat, momo’s (!) – All really good and the place is packed with locals.

We have an early start to take a Sunrise boat ride – it’s cold and misty but we get a beautiful sunrise, with great pictures again, and lovely alternative views of the ghats. Then it’s back to Ganpati for breakfast and to enjoy the heat of the sun on their roof terrace.

The girls have decided to go for some retail therapy while we do some exploring of the backstreets and we meet up for lunch at Shree café just by the Man Mandir ghat which not only does great food but also has some awesome photographs taken by the owner adorning the walls.

Then it’s back to catch a cab to the train station for the overnight train to Agra – the first overnight train experience for S&L. Unfortunately they haven’t invested in the station as they had at the airport – it’s a total dump!

Agra

We arrive at 6.30am (a bit later than expected) with the driver from the Hotel waiting for us. It’s 10kms from the Cantonment station to the hotel which is only 350 mtrs from the East Gate of the Taj complex. Agra is cold in the mornings we discover, till about 10 am when the sun comes through and warms the place up to a nice 25 degrees.

Surprisingly we are upgraded to The Suite for our stay (a bit of a scam we feel as there is an extra charge to check in before 12 noon but as Louise isn’t feeling too good we go for it.) However, the rooms – as its two interconnected rooms - have great views of the Taj. So does the toilet!! So well worth the Rs 500 extra.

The roof top view is awesome and given that we are literally next to the Oberoi hotel which probably costs 100 times more per day we have picked a good one here. They did want Rs 100 per day per person using Wi-fi which C contested on spurious grounds and got away with – well done her.

As we are here for only 2 days and the Taj is off limits to visitors on Friday we go off to see Fathepur Sikri (FS) about 50 kms away – driver & car arranged from the hotel (Rs1100 – a good deal for 4 people). On the drive we encounter a strike rally which causes total chaos with the traffic.

Eventually we get to FS – a well preserved city by the standards of the time it was built by Akbar, considered one of the greatest Mughal Kings of India. The whole place is built in red sandstone. The design, layout and craftsmanship are beautiful and magnificent. The city was abandoned not long after it was built and the main reason is that getting the needed water supply there proved too difficult so it was abandoned. How it remains so well preserved is a miracle in India given the state of ruin of the many other grand monuments we have visited despite “Heritage” status.

We dine at the hotel – which is ok Non Veg food, after a few Kingfishers from the local beer shop (Rs 120 a go – we believe we are being overcharged but don’t have much option – or its pay Rs180 at the Hotel). These go down well with the Navrattan & Aloo Bhujia savouries.

So it’s the big one at last – we go to see the Taj Mahal. We decide against the sunrise slot as the cold weather brings on a very heavy mist which doesn’t clear till about 8.30ish after the sun is up – so it seemed pointless.

We decide to walk in through the main entrance the South Gate as this is the one which shows the Taj in its glory as you enter through the gate archway. Entry is Rs 250 pp for foreigners but there is a local Tax of Rs 500 per person for foreigners only – so Rs 750 in all. What one gets as a benefit is a free trip to the toilets (wow – Indian style value for money?).

The Taj is simply magnificent as usual & for the girls we hope well worth the wait. One can only wonder and admire the architecture, the symmetry and sheer craftsmanship that make this a true marvel in marble.

The history is quite simple – it’s a symbol of love from the then king Shah Jahan to his wife Mumtaz who dies in childbirth (her 14^th so they were busy!)and this is his tribute to her. Both the King and Mumtaz are buried below the Taj – where visitors now can’t enter.

After two hours of admiring the site and taking hundreds of pictures we make for some food and take some advice from our LP guide and go to the Saniya Palace Hotel roof top restaurant for some lunch as it’s supposed to have the best view of the Taj – boy were they right and the food was pretty good too (even if the alley way to the hotel is a bit messy looking, it’s well worth a visit.) We get a great table and the whole experience was truly memorable.

Next stop Agra Fort which is about 2 kms away and given the attempts by the Agra rickshaws to try & rip us off we decide to walk – which is quite fun as you see a lot of life in this part of India – cycle rickshaws, tongas (which Sarah was not keen to try as she was concerned for the horses), new on the road battery operated mini vans seating 4, Tuk Tuks, Camels with carts ferrying people to the fort from the West Gate of the Taj etc. The number of local visitors is amazing but then again it is Saturday. The queues late pm are very long.

We cannot but marvel at the Traffic system in the country for its ability to keep going against the odds – cycles, tuk tuks, cycle rickshaws, tongas (horse drawn carts), motor bikes, scooters, cars, taxis, mini buses, large buses, lorries, double parked cars & triple parked bikes, pedestrians – all vying for the same small space in the road that was never designed to take so much traffic or people and not to mention the cows, buffalos, goats (who all claim priority over the road) and yet in all our time here we have not seen one accident!! It’s chaotic but it seems to work – even when people drive down the wrong side of the road. It’s amazing that road rage isn’t prominent or the population of the country would reduce pretty rapidly.

The Fort entry is Rs 250 each again & this time we are spared the local tax of Rs 50 each as we had visited the Taj earlier. The Fort is deceptively large even though part of it is closed off and houses some army personnel. The Fort is actually another Mughal palace or city within a Fort with the usual array of inlaid audience chamber, places for the king, the queen and rooms for the servants, mosques to pray in etc. There’s some nice flower work and decorations in the marble structures.

It’s in far better shape than the Red Fort in Delhi and is getting a makeover at the moment. There are some lovely views of the Taj in the distance which make great photo opportunities. Unfortunately this is what Shah Jahan the King who built the Taj was left with when he was imprisoned here after he was overthrown by his son Aurangzeb.

We manage eventually to get a reasonable Tuk Tuk guy to take us back to the East Gate for a reasonable – if inflated Rs 80 but a far cry from the Rs 200 to 400 we were being asked for!!

The sunset doesn’t seem too good and we are not sure where we could get a good view of this over the Taj so we head “home” to the Taj Plaza for a night in as we have to get up at 3.45 am to catch our train to Jaipur….

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Comments

[Kirit]

Hi Caroline and Michael Following your tour toures in the north. I am glad you are enjoying with all ups and downs. I have now visted the Maj mahal four times and all the surroundings. Last time I took Lyn with me and had to hold her hand all the time (what a hero?). been to FS, QM (not very far from my friends house) and could see it from the rood top vanada. I am gald S & L are also enjoying too. Open their eyes. We stayed Oberio both at Agra and Simla, paid by my friend Anil who lives in New Delhi. He was my room mate when we studied Engineering at Bangalore. He is now a big businessman in Delhi building block of apartments and call centres. His dad is in the Government and local polotices. If ever you need help, give me a shout and I will put you in contact with him. Very helpful and we come a long way back. I touch his dad\'s and mum\'s feet every time I see them. Ask M what it means. Incidently which part of India M comes from. Has he visited that area and has he any relatives there? I come from Gurarat (my forefathers) and I have been there few time. Let me know what you think of Baroda, Naide (where Amul butter comes from) and Ahmadabad (from where Gandhi came from) AND it is still a dry area. I hope you have your Liquor licence. Should be fine with big hotels. Well, I have left MHS and want to be independent like Geofrey Jackson. Any pointers. Any help would be appreciated. Well C, enjoy your trip in India. So much to see and so little time. Enjoy anyway. Regards to M, S & L. Keep in touch and let me know if you need any help in Delhi and area. Kind regards Kirit