Special Sikkim

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April 4th 2009

Published: April 4th 2009

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Slowfeet

Rock On

They are generally better than most on the environment but they are actually mining the rivers here. Digging rocks and sand out. Destroying the flows.

Sikkim was probably worth a lot more time than we gave the place. It wasn't on our original list probably being knocked off because it needed a special permit, is a bit out of the way and seemed really all about temples and gompas - which don't really hold that much of an attraction for some of us. There are some excellent looking treks that leave from here and it would have been nice to try one but, no time this time. So, to make up a little for not spending enough time I decided not to roll this into the West Bengal post and give Sikkim one on its own.

We received differing views on Sikkim and its capital, Gangtok. Some said it was worth going to and others told us that we wouldn't enjoy it because it was just a new sort of city without much charm. There is a lake near there, though, that is as close as foreigners can get to the border with China. While we generally avoid being 'tick off tourists' there was an appeal in getting close to that border from this side.

Sikkim is bordered by Nepal on one side and

Triumph of Positive Thinking

It was sunny for a couple of hours the next day.

China on two. It was a 'kingship' until 1975 and is now an Indian State. It is a place that has copped a pizzling from its neighbours over the centuries, having been, at various times, beaten up and governed by each of them. It is, thus, probably very reasonable that these days it enjoys a favoured position among Indian States. As a border state Sikkim recieves special favour from the Indian Government. The roads are better, the power supply is more reliable, there is plenty of water with good supply infrastructure and there is either no taxation or very light tax. The state also has a government that seems to have more of an environmental and social conscience than most. Plastic bags are banned. Liquor is cheap and there are social programs to assist those who take too much advantage of that.

We travelled to Gangtoc, the capital of Sikkim, from Darjeeling by 'jeep'. There are a range of vehicles that are called jeeps. Mahindras tend to dominate but there are also models that I have never heard of before running around. Jeeps make a lot of sense on these roads which wind up, and down, the mountains, are

Views

Getting up here can be fun bu the views from everywhere are great.

often in poor repair and are almost always busy with trucks, buses and, of course, many other jeeps.

Getting into a jeep requires something of a leap of faith. It simply doesn't do to carry out a quick observation of safety features. Seatbelts? They appear to be optional extras most of the time and they are rarely used. Very rarely are they in the rear seats. Tyres? Just how bald is too bald? Wire showing? Canvass showing? Do you actually need tread on the tyres? Don't worry about it. Just hope that if they blow it will be at low speed. And perhaps we had better get those wills signed. I have to say though that the drivers are pretty special. I am not sure how they would go at high speed on an open road but weaving among traffic, dodging all manner of obstacles, watching for photo opportunities and operating mobile phones they are pretty dammed good.

Darjeeling to Gangtoc is only 88 km. Our driver was determined to break all speed records for the trip, or perhaps he just had another job that he was keen to get to. This was all to the good, except

Gangtoc

Cleaner and easier than most places. Modern-ish but OK

for those of us who have those weak stomachs. By the time we made it to Gangtoc I was making statements about not getting in another jeep for a few days.

As you enter Sikkim at Rangpo foreigners are directed to the Foreigners Registration Office. We apparently could have picked up our permit here but having already jumped through the hoops in Darjeeling, did make it simpler and much faster. Gangtoc is built along a ridge. You enter from the bottom and there are restrictions on where jeeps can go. We were dropped off in a parking garage and transferred into a small van that was allowed to go on roads closer to where we were to stay. The hotel, the Golden Heights was in a place called Mahatma Gandhi Marg - basically a blocked off road that had been turned into an attractive shopping mall. This was a first for us in India.

The hotel was fine and the restaurant that we picked out about 100 meters up the street was interesting and good. The proprietor was a man who was very proud of his establishment. He visited each of the tables offering suggestions, sometimes directions, and

MG Marg

in Gangtoc. Just a mall you might say. Well it is the first for a long time that really does stop all vehicles. A joy

was constantly moving his wait staff along. We had a nice time eating and watching the show.

The trip to the Lake Tsongu/Chongu/Tschonga was highly problematic. First, we needed to have permits complete with photos. This was pretty easy to organise and involved little effort from us. Secondly, and most importantly, snow was falling in the area of the lake. The army had stopped tours on the day we arrived and it seemed likely that they would also stop them for the next day. But the call came through at about 10.30pm that it was all go.

Into another jeep - tyres no better and just 2 seat belts but with an excellent driver who knew the road to the last pothole - and off up and across the mountains. As I guess you should expect, the Army was very much in evidence. The primary activity seemed to be road building but there were enough large guns in evidence to suggest that they would provide a warm welcome to any who might decide to move in. In the 38 km we travelled over the next couple of hours we passed a number of installations involving significant numbers of

Turn Out the Lights

This was the night and these kids made sure everyone did. Even us.

huts, barracks and lots of trucks.

A major activity for the Army was traffic control. There were a lot more tourists than we would have imagined making the journey to the Lake and, therefore, one hell of a lot of jeeps. Luckily, most were intent on going the one way so things were relatively orderly. Of course, just because we were going the same way didnt't remove the confusion caused by those who wanted to arrive there before the bloke in front. Everyone was in that category. So we had constant passing and jostiling for position. With sheer drops to deal with on a muddy road with edges that appear to have previously given way this was interesting. You did learn to ignore it after a while.

Finally made it to the lake. A grand total of 15 km from Gangtoc as the crow flies, but if it did fly it would do so over a very deep valley. The lake was shrouded in so much mist that we could barely make out water of any kind. Plenty of snow though and plenty of yaks. All of the latter had saddles on and a bloke hanging on to

On the Road

up to L Tsongu - or however they are spelling it today

the reins. We protested that we were too old and decrepit to go riding yaks and were left alone. Basically, you got to ride up the lake about 200 meters and then back again with the yak herders running along yelling and belting the daylights out of the yaks on the way up the lake and the yaks heading earnestly for home on the way back.

We decided to walk. We were the only ones to do so and others smiled gently at the spectacle. It was nice to walk around the shore of the lake although the smell of diesel from the many jeeps and trucks did take something away from the experience.

It was a good trip and I am glad that I was so quickly able to get over my decision not to ride in the back of a jeep.

The afternoon was taken up with wandering about the shops and meandering around the town. That night we hit a bar. Another first for India. Beer was cheap and strong. Barnes found one called “Hit” which was 8%. Woke up complaining that he must be coming down with something!

Headed off next morning

Army Base in the Snow

Be a good posting this one. This is on the way into summer.

to Siliguri. This place is a major city back in West Bengal. We had been booked into a hotel called Sinclairs. This sounded expensive and was. Unfortunately it wasn't as flash as its price.

Actually, we are now pretty sure that John Cleese visited India and possibly Siliguri. We found some of his story lines here. On fronting the reservations desk we were asked whether we wanted a large double bed or two single beds in each of the rooms. We advised that one large double bed would be good for each room. There were twin beds in each room and no suggestion that we could change to one where there was a large bed even though the hotel appeared to have few guests. Trish sitting at the table in the dining room on her own. Orders a drink. For two? A little later Pat sitting there with me orders drinks for us. Just one? Barnes heads off to get some coffee. Trish heads off to get some coffee. Told the staff it looked as weak as tea and could she get some stronger. Yes. No problem. It went away and came back stronger and blacker. They had put

BRO is Here

Sopmeone in BRO - the Border Roads Organisation - has a sense of humour.

some instant coffee into the tea. Not bad though.

We had decided to pull up in Siliguri because a friend had a relative who had a tea plantation there. We have learnt a lot about tea in the last few weeks. I may have to consider giving up using tea bags. Our host at the tea plantation scoffed at the popular 'white' tea as a marketing ploy for what is essentially early green tea. The leaves have a silver streak, hence the 'white'. He also scoffed at the perfumed teas variously as marketing ploys and rubbish. His brother is a manager of a tea 'garden' at Darjeeling and makes a lot of these sorts of teas. Our host was not impressed. He produces prize winning green tea and CTC or cut, tear and curl tea - which for ordinary folk is ordinary black tea. We had a run through the process and were given some insights into the elements that affect production and quality. Interesting stuff. There is clearly a lot more to tea than drinking the stuff.

Oh, and by the way, the tea plantation was only 1km from the Nepalese border. Eyes lit up. Another border.

Yak

We didn't ride. We told them we were too old - and they agreed - so we didnt.

But no, we didn't have access to a vehicle that could do the job, it was late in the day and there were those among us not desirous of a walk over rough ground to a border that was in fact a dry river.

On now to Delhi. Another 24 hours on a sleeper train. And then into a city that seems to have a reputation as the noisiest and most frenetic in India.

It has been a bit of a bugger getting onto a decent net connection here. So much for the stories that India is really well connected. But we have found a wifi here in Jaipur and as long as I sit in this one spot in this one room I am on. So you get a double dose today.

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