Haveli - Shekhawati

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22/1/10

Churu(@300m) was one of the gateway into Shekhawati area, the Land of Haveli. A small town with many palatial houses around the main bazar. and an old fort nearby, but only part of the wall still existed. Shekhawati area in the old day was an important trading center between the Arabian Sea and the Ganga region, it benefited many local business men and people were wealthy, they began to built grand houses for their family which decorated with fascinating colour paintings and designs, although not in much artistic way, but the abundant quantity was a feast for the eyes! Most were portrait of peoples, or scene from deistic story, and some just daily life scene, very randomly. Information said the older houses were decorated with fresco technique instead of just paint over plain wall, but I didn't see any of this in Churu so far, but most of the buildings was locked or had residents so I couldn't go in to view it. Here at least I got a fresh taste of Haveli, and the best preserved would be down further in the heart of Shekhawati where I will dig in. Walking around the market area was tiring, head always up searching for outstanding paintings while keeping an eye for the traffic and the cow dung on the street. The worse was the needed to entertained the "hello" invitation. I mean...most of them were sincere and friendly, but some were annoying, making stupid comments and mimicking strange noises, like a nasty mosquito trailing around. ok ok...I hear you...just ignored them right! I did, but useless...some jerk even greeted me with a flying potato from behind and it was unacceptable. When I looked back at them with an ferocious face, they just pretended not their business, but at least it stop the hassling completely. These people just didn't considered the others, sometimes over hospitality would became annoying. I did my best to return their hello hello, and I think I already managed it quite well indeed, but sometimes it was just too much, ever few seconds you were stop or blocked by a face in front of your camera, and repeated my country and my name! I just need at least short time and tiny space for myself once in while. But no...it wouldn't granted in India! And Rajasthan seem like the most stubborn in hello hello greeting. Guessed I would had a hard time further on if I couldn't come up with a solution.

Note
Bus Hanumangarh to Churu Rs110.

23/1/10

Fatehpur(@320m)was far more easy going than Churu, people were more timid to confronted foreigners, so the once in awhile hello were welcoming. Fatehpur had far more palatial buildings than Churu, but same...most of them were in sad un-managed condition, and not allowed to walked in, of course...it was other people house or just the house keeper station. One house charge Rs20 so I paid and walked in, at least tried to got an idea how it was like, but...it was just a small house without much depth, only one patio and the 2nd floor was off limited, what a cheaty, and what a disappointment! Although Fatehpur got many palatial houses, but the buildings in Churu were far more grandiose. There was only 2 hotels in Fatehpur and no restaurant at all, at least I hadn't see any, everyone ate samosa or potato cake and all the shops were sweet and candy place...strange!

Note
Bus Churu to Fatehpur Rs20.

25/1/10

Mandawa(@350m)was a nice little town full of Haveli. And...much developed for tourist than the other places in the area, you could find souvenirs and antique shops, money exchange and tourist restaurants. Touts approaching you once you off the bus, sweet talking and luring you by offered help, but they were full of shit! "very expensive here, 6-7 hundreds for a room is minimum ", the 1st guy came up to me said, then he added he knew a place maybe up to my budget, a local house still under renovation, a tiny room with 4 empty wall, no window, and...even no bed! "will put up a bed right away" the guy said and demanded Rs350 for the room. I sensed something not right when there was much communication between them, I told them it was over my budget and thank them before walked out. This guy came after me and tried to sold me his tour even if I didn't stay in Mandawa as I swore will just going back to Fatehpur for room, just 18km away! Of course I rejected him then he demanded I should gave him something for his service, "service ???" what service did I asked from you I said, "you must be joking" and I left him without another word. At least now it gave me hope I might able to find something economic here as I didn't believed a words of his. Later I did got a nice spotless clean marble floor room for Rs200, keeping by some old men as the owner was living in Kokalta. Perhaps it wasn't their own business that they gave me this offered, they were just nice, not judging me by how I dress and how I look. And also there wasn't much business here as well. Most tourist group stay up at those heritage hotel renovated from old Haveli house, seem like the one I staying in was the only one that not a heritage! Mandawa got a great old town atmosphere, a street ran through both end of the market area and small lanes lead sideway out into the desert plain. An old fort raise up on the small hilltop now converted into a hotel, where most day tour buses shuttle tourists here for lunch. There were couple of haveli opened up for a fee so one could get a glimpsed inside. same like in Fatehpur, there was no local thali restaurant in sight, I wondered what would they eat at night? But here at least there were tourist canteen, but price was a bit high of course! So I better patronized in my hotel, and it turn out good and reasonable cheap. The only old man could spoke some english told me he was the cook, "don't worry, you want chicken masala right? I cook it good! " power cut out as it was a sudden rain and lightning outside, he served me under candlelight, "try the chapati, I made good chapati, try it, no pay" he said and gave me extra portion of rice too, probably he realized that I was a poor man as I bargained that hard for the room! I took everything with gratitude as I always appreciated when someone offered thing not in a commercial way or hoping to get something in return. I think I will stay another day here. I just like the sensation of being welcomed and accepted. This Gayatri Sadan Hotel was one of the tallest building in town, so I could looked around the area on roof top. The Rajasthan women here was like the Miao women in China, dressed themselves up in brilliant colours, head to toes! Some got huge silver bracelets on arms and wrists, some even got an almost 6 inchs silver tube on their ankles, I wondered how it could ended up there at the first place? They just like jewellery, but...who else doesn't ? Inside any market you could see women hang around small bracelet shop, drinking tea, discussed and waited. most of the merchandise were finishing products, but they also could choose diamonds(was it real diamonds I had no idea) according to the colours they like, and got it inlaid onto a blank bracket right away in the shop.
Jhunjhunu was a bigger town and the administration center of Shekhewati, a small rocky hill light up the boring desert flat scenery, and with an old fort palace on top, gave a sensational view while looking from the Khetri Mahal. This run down Mahal was actually the place for the king to entertained visitor, to dance, to sun-bathed, a palace for social function, and now it was totally defaced with only the skeleton left. From the roof top again...I could looked down on the whole city. home factories dried the white cotton cloths on their roof, and you could almost see the whole production line of the sari, you could see women tied or un-tied the cloths before or after dyed, you could see 2 people in pairs carried the fully opened sari marching in open air to dried. That was the final products! The most important sight beside Haveli in Jhunjhunu was the Rani Sati Temple, it was dedicated to the women who committed Sati(jumped into fire in the funeral of their husband) on this same site about 500 years ago. The central hall was surprisingly brilliant in decoration, the whole ceiling was a huge picture done by colourful mosaic and patched works, all the columns and doors was heavily clad with silver bas reliefs. Although it was a Hindu site, but the buddhism Swatika sign could be seen everywhere inside the complex, and the main image in the central shrine was a Buddha face with snail knots hair.

Note
Bus Fatehpur to Mandawa Rs12.
Bus Mandawa to Jhunjhunu Rs12.

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