Is that not a little rash?

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The problems with our hotel in Jaisalmer (see last blog) were rectified to everyone's satisfaction- especially ours, as we didn't have to lift a finger! We transferred to a much nicer hotel (the Rang Mahal) on the other side of town.

Our first impressions of Jaisalmer were that it reminded us of Marrakesh- narrow alleyways, carpets everywhere, the smell of camel leather and hookahs. Our tour of the city was a pleasure, including a walkpast of the guide's house. We even had time for some shopping- a luxury on a tour where every minute is planned for you- and found some nice Rajastani bedspreads to argue the price over.

In the evening, we took a camel safari out to the dunes near the town of Sam in the desert. It was lovely- just me, Linda, and 10,000 other tourists all jostling for the optimum spot on the dunes to view the sunset. Linda got 'dragged' into some folk dancing (she loves it really- see photos) and I got involved in a tedious conversation about cricket with a little sandboy who thought I was Australian.

We left the next morning and headed to Jodhpur. This town is famous for the sky-blue colour of the houses, and the rather austere and imposing Meherangh Fort that towers over it. As I mentioned in a previous update, forts are now our specialised subject on Mastermind, but this one stood out for the spectacular views and the superb moustaches of the palace guards- gravity-defying stuff.

Next up was Ranakpur, famous for it's Jain temples. Jainism is a branch of Hinduism- there are eight million followers of the religion in India. Our hotel here was well up to scratch- so much so that by unanimous vote our group decided to shelve almost all the tour itinerary and spend a day by the pool instead. Linda and I headed to the spa to enjoy an Ayurvedic massage. For those unfamiliar with the term, Ayurvedic comes from the Hindi Ayur, meaning very, and Vedic, meaning embarrassing. It's a full body massage, so whip off your undies and sit on the rather greasy wooden bench. The masseur/euse then approaches you with a pot of hot oil and and evil gleam in the eyes. Not a single square inch of your body escapes attention- there was definite jostling of the unmentionables for the gents, and a sturdy twanging of the nipples for the ladies. We emerged half an hour later, having avoided eye contact for the entire duration, greased up like a turkey on its way to the oven.

The following day, suitably relaxed, we departed for Udaipur. This is one of the most romantic cities in India, and resembles Prague, or Venice. Lake Pichola, the centrepiece, has often been dry in recent years, but the recent monsoon was a good one and the city was at its sparkling best.

Linda, however, was increasingly troubled by an angry red rash that was flourishing all over her body. It was the curse of the Ayurvedics, back with a vengeance! Our second house call by an Indian doctor soon followed; he languidly confirmed irritant dermatitis, prescribed the same medicine that Linda was already taking, and tried to sting us for 700 rupees for his trouble. We got him down to 500 rupees and he ambled off. He had no medicine bag or any other visible sign of doctorhood. Maybe he was the caretaker, wandering the corridors of our hotel, and got lucky?

Happily, Linda has made a full recovery and is steering clear of further beauty treatments, thank you very much.

We're off to Mumbai today, where our tour concludes. From tomorrow, we'll have to think for ourselves. Scary.

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Photos

Jaisalmer fort and Rajasthani rugs
Sightseeing and shopping combined

Jaisalmer havellis
Havellis (mansions built by rich merchants in the 19th and early 20th centuries). One of the highlights of Jaisalmer.

Linda does the sand dance
No, don't ask me to dance- oh, go on then!

Eight out of ten cats
Linda and Dee admiring a fine pair of chops at Jodhpur Fort

Grabbing the bull
This colourful cow works at the Fate Bagh hotel at Ranakpur- he provides the pulling power for the water wheel in the well, which irrigates the gardens

Lake Pichola
Nice photo of us at the lake.

Comments

[Marky G]

Wonderful Imagery
Steve - It is wonderful to sit here (in an office you will remember in Southampton) and read of your bits being greased like a Turkey's giblets. Beautiful imagery from the subcontinent ... and India.