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Published: January 31st 2010
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17/1/10
Turban heads topped the skyline in dense street after entered into Punjab region. And with more fashionable colour in fabric, men decorated their head with their favourite colour, pink, violet, green, blue yellow, you name it. I saw a man dyeing colour for cotton clothes infront of his shop, inside stack of multi colour turban walled the whole shop front. Sikh men made up part of the scene in Punjab. I was planned to stop over in Chandigarh(@200m), said it was the cleanest and greenest city in India, but when into the city area, it took more than 30 minutes and we still not get to the bus station, and it was enough time for me to see this cleanest city, straight wide street separated block district in different sectors. No character at all, and with the hazy air again breathing together with the street dusts, not appealing. Beside...this kind of setting really wouldn't work with the Indian, all the Indian charm and atmospheric had gone. Worse was when the bus stopped at the station, it wasn't even the station in town center, "the 43 sector" I saw the sign. Alright, I didn't even need more than a second
to decided to move on. Quick checked with the map and the bus schedule, Ludhiana sound ok for the night as it would gave me an early arrival in Amritsar afterward. No idea what Ludhiana was like, as I arrived there after dark, and it was spread out in a huge distant between settlement, I had no idea what the layout of the city, I only knew I saw the "welcome to Ludhiana" sign a long time and still not arrived at the bus station, many times I thought I was there as I saw shops and buildings and traffic jam, but then we drove out on highway again. The whole area was full of industries, car, textiles, garment, and the Hero bicycle headquarters is here too. and you could see many shops selling defected stuffs or just stolen out from factory, especially after dark, many small counter open inside the market area offered goods in cut-throat price.
Amritsar(@200m) was another city with crazy traffic. Especially once outside the bus station, confusing road junction almost got me hit many times, also near the Golden Temple area in the old city which mixing up with human traffic, everyday you could see
many tourist buses parked in the small lanes by the temple complex, this Sikh pilgrims center was heavy with visited, beside the sacred of the place, the Temple itself was a real beauty, set in the middle of the big square lake, the outer of the building were clad in copper, only the lower part kept in the original marble features with beautiful inlaid. The interior were ever decorated in fabulous patched work and inlaid, shining in multi colours. a band of priests armed with keyboard and drums chanting the Sikh holy book non-stop while believes sit around humming lightly with the rhythm, it was broadcasting through loudspeaker so one could get the feeling while meandering around the lake. The complex was open 24 hrs for the pilgrims,you need to went inside barefoot, to be honest...it was really cold walking on the marble stone flooring, especially early in the morning and after sun down, and worse...there was no sun at all today as the city was flooded by fog! It send my hair stood up with pimples when I saw people dipped inside the pool! With so many visitor in a day,the complex still kept its cleanliness and tidy, unlike
the Sri Durgiana Temple nearby, a Hindu site dedicated to Durga, almost the copy version of the Golden Temple, with a causeway link to the shrine in the middle of the lake, but here, the water was dirty, kids came in flying kite, just like most of the Hindu temple in India(luckily...cow not yet allowed in), without much conscious to look after it. But this temple already far more cleaner than other Hindu temple. There was also a canteen in the Golden Temple, served up basic Thali for free all through the day, just took the plate they handed out to you and followed the others.
Note
Bus Rishikesh to Dehradun Rs29.
Bus Dehradun to Chandigarh Rs125.
Bus Chandigarh to Ludhiana Rs50.
Bus Ludhiana to Amritsar Rs75.
18/1/10
Very entertaining, very interesting! I would recommended the border closing ceremony to everyone, easy accessed to, an hour bus ride to Attari, than 2km to the border, either walked or a ricksaw cost Rs10. Tourists began to arrived after 3pm, 90% were Indian, before they let us into the border area it was already closed to 1000 people. No hand carry luggage were allowed into the area, not even
you camera bag, so...do bring anything more than a camera as they wouldn't keep it for you, no locker provided. Approaching the border line you could hear pop music drumming and young women dancing on the open street in front of the border, some held the India flag made a 100m run back-fore to the border line, looked further over in the Pakistan side...quiet, only a guy waving the national flag single handed. Both side had the kind of viewing platform in front of their border, both side also had a MC to presented the show and to arose the atmosphere of the audiences. Soon...7 border guards appeared and one after one they kicked and march-run toward the border in an aggressive manner, of course... On the Pakistani side they were doing the same, foot kicked as high as they could. Whenever there was a commotion on the other side the MC would came in front of the audiences asking for responded, they shouting patriotic slogan, screamed and hurray, and everyone laugh! After the border gate opened, the soldiers would from both sides would shake hands before turning back, of course...with more kicking! Once the nation flag was down and
the border gate would closed up. The whole ceremony last almost 30 mins. I guessed everyone enjoyed it including the 20 or so foreigners, there was non of those fanaticism atmosphere here, even everyone shouting slogans, "Hindustan.... "but all wore a smile on their face, people were more busy in laughs and taking pictures.
Note
Bus Amritsar to Attari Rs15.
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