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India is a land of contrasts (hence the clumsy metaphor above). I'm sitting in a hotel room in Delhi, thoroughly enjoying Inglorious Basterds on one of the English movie channels on Indian TV, before our very early plane tomorrow morning. Now reflecting on my experience of India, it has been across a spectrum of enjoyment, highlighted to me rather conveniently by our journey today from Jaipur to Delhi.
Approaching Delhi from the south, we passed through the commercial district, full of shiny new high rise offices and apartments, familiar names adorned the top of the façades. Deloitte, Panasonic, KPMG, Toyota, all the same names as one would see in any major capital city, however it felt like a lie. If I was coming to India on business, doubtless, I'd get to the big BA jet to the airport, and a taxi to my Crowne Plaza/Hilton in the heart of the commercial zone, a 5 minute walk from the office. I'd never have to see the poverty, squalor, and deprivation that the vast majority of India lives in. I'd think that the new India that the government would like to portray is all brushed steel, concrete and glass. The problem that Gandhi found with India in the 1930s was the that gulf between rich and poor was too great. He would not be pleased today.
Don't get me wrong, there have been some amazing bits, the best being the Taj Mahal, the Jaisalmer desert trek, and Udaipur being the stand out best for me, but there are some Indian attitudes that I can't quite get comfortable with. The first and foremost being the attitude to leprosy, which we have written about before. The second is about sanitation/living conditions. Both are appalling, with the combination of roaming cows, open sewers (even in most of downtown Delhi) and the simply vast about of litter, even walking around can be hazardous to your health,never mind the thick smog of diesel fumes lining your lungs. No-one seems to think this is a problem. Despite this, there is a very American attitude that India is the greatest country on earth, describing themselves as the worlds largest democracy and the youngest superpower. In my eyes, it is still a 3
rd world country albeit with lots of IT outsourcing and call centres.
India is still not what I would describe as tourist friendly. Aside from the above, there are too many conmen (occasionally government sponsored), touts, and tuktuk drivers who will gladly take you for every Rupee you have if you let them. Many of the tourist attractions are badly kept, bare shells with little of interest remaining in them after centuries of neglect, and they charge Rs80 for Indians, and Rs300 for foreigners. There are 4 different types of people we've met here, those we've met on trains, who have been wonderfully friendly, helpful and genuine people. They're the best educated, with good jobs and aspirations. The second are the tuktuk drivers and shopkeepers, who will constantly hassle you and try to screw everything they can out of you, and are the sleaziest of anyone here. In between are the last 2 groups. The south Indian people who are on holiday seeing the various attractions, but have never seen a white person before and always ask for pictures. Nice enough, but a bit irritating, Finally there are the villagers. 70%!o(MISSING)f India's population live in villages, and this is where the deprivation really is. No running water, powercuts every 20 minutes, very little education, and the complete repression of women, this is how 70%!o(MISSING)f people live, with no dreams or aspirations of getting out. It's depressing.
Perhaps coming here first was a bad idea. With my quaint western sensibilities and standards, it was always going to be a shock to come here first, and perhaps I wasn't adequately prepared for what to expect. Yes we've had some great experiences here, and I wouldn't say that they've been overshadowed by bad ones, but currently, I won't be planning another trip here, or recommending it to anyone. However it has at the very least it's been an educational experience, and possibly given me a hint of gratitude for the basics of western living: a tap; a toilet; an education.
P.S. Currently on the Jet Airways flight 9w18 to Singapore, having had a thoroughly unpleasant experience in the airport, there is another group which I had forgotten about. The bureaucratic, pedantic individuals occupying minor positions of power/authority. They include the flight check in people and airport security guards who were specifically drawing my wrath today. Universally rude, overly officious, actually quite lazy, and some of the least helpful individuals ever to walk this earth. I have grown a hatred for these people, virtually unrivalled in my wide ranging catalogue of groups against whom I am extremely prejudiced.
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Olly
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You sound somewhat exhausted.
Hope Singapore is a good experience.We are shivering still here in the coldest weather in Spring I ever recall. But nothing stops the intrepid 'mature'(!!) golfers of Milnathort. I'm off to France withe the Tooting Wilsons on 26 May. I have really enjoyed the blogs--reckon you should publish on return.++ Olly/Grampa Take care!