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Asia » India » Maharashtra » Panchgani
December 20th 2008
Published: December 21st 2008
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Sitting here 1500 meters above the sea in Room 113 of the Initiatives for Change Valley view building it is hard to add much to Alexia’s words. So far for me India has been an absolute assault to every one of my senses. From the moment I exited Mumbai airport and was greeted by the balmy, smelly breeze of that city along with the calming face of my beautiful Alexia things have been hectic. I can’t possibly begin to put all my impressions of India so far on to paper, but I will make a list of things that have struck me.
- Cabs and cab drivers!! All the taxis in India I have seen are old style metal cars painted yellow on the roof and black on the body. They have all been individualized in some way, although many are marked only by an amazing amount of dents and scratches. Seatbelts are considered an unnecessary luxury and fares are agreed before entering the cab. Then there are the drivers. They magically maneuver their cars through seemingly impassable traffic jams using their only weapons of constant beeping and skilled driving. When mixed with seemingly suicidal overtakes and all the varied sights of India out the window, it makes for an unforgettable experience!
- Poverty and Wealth. One thing I have found difficult to deal with in India so far are the alarming differences between the rich and the poor, who live alongside each other living completely different lives. I know I bring my Australian perspective to this fact, and thus I am trying not to judge India through the lens of my limited perspective. The beach at Chowpatti is one example. What would otherwise be a stunning, broad bay beach is blighted by the sight of raw sewage flowing into the stagnate waters of the bay, and discarded rubbish by the truckload intermingling with smooth camel colored sand. On the esplanade the most desperate of beggars walk along the footpaths of roads driven upon by wealthy Indians driving luxury cars.
- Trees. Despite the choking density of the population, one can always see several beautiful big trees. Popping up wherever they find an opportunity, the trees give the cities a feeling that the streets are alive. Of course, these touches of nature are regulated by the humans that crowd around them. Every single tree has maroon and white stripes encircling its trunk.
- The difference with which different Indians regard us as westerners. Some stare with amazement. Some just look with curiosity. Some give sideways leers which lightly mask heavy contempt. The other day at Ellora caves Alexia and I were looking out at the beautiful tropical horizon from an ancient Buddhist cave when we were joined by a group of school kids. Moments past before I realized that the children were in fact looking at us! There was 50 pairs of eyes hungrily devouring us and jabbing us with questions ‘Where you from?!’, ‘Photo?!’’ Photo?!’. Ten unforgettable minutes of photo taking and handshaking later, Alexia and I were left alone again, bewildered by becoming instant celebrities only to be just as quickly forgotten.
- Helpful strangers. Several Indians have endeared themselves to us. Offering their help or advice without thought of their own profit. Opening up their lives after only a couple of minutes conversation. There was Satish from Indore who I sat next to on the bus from Aurangabad to Pune. He loves cricket and dreams of sending his son to a good school in Panchgani with the children of Bollywood stars. He invited me to his house next time I am in Indore. Viki from the Hotel Vrindivam in Ellora, who is very proud of his son the doctor and opened his hotel up for us and gave us the right advice even if he made less money out of it.
- The countryside. I have only seen a small part of India so far, but the landscapes have been breathtaking. One example was the drive up from Aurangabad to Ellora, which took us through ragged mountains topped with ancient forts and surrounded by unfortunate looking residential blocks. Maharashtra is a lush state laced by strong rivers and covered in healthy crops (where there is no rubbish!)
Yesterday I saw my first elephant, just going about its business on the side of the modern highway. I guess that sums up my first impressions of India. Just when I think I have this place worked out, around the corner there is the most unexpected site, which makes you reassess everything. Like a modern wind farm rising above a farmer sowing his crops by buffalo.
So here we find ourselves at Asia Plateau - an island of peace and order in a country in a state of continual chaos. I am finding myself enjoying the regimentation of regular meals, a washing machine and a clean toilet. It’s been great seeing Belle, Bek and Adam. Belle’s energy is infectious and I admire her ability to build relationships and experience new things with the reckless enthusiasm of youth.



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