From the plane to insane to the commuter train

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I couldn't have imagined that we'd get our visas and make it to the airport as painlessly as we did. We were even early, after deciding against an expensive taxi and choosing the public bus instead. We had an overnight flight ( = no sleep) and we arrived in Mumbai at about 4am. We made the airport our sanctuary until daylight and then had to figure a new way downtown (the guidebook had old bus info.)


It was evident on the bus that Indians love to rush, push and crowd each other but I was unprepared for the train station at rush hour. Bunches of men, hanging out the train doors by one hand as the train arrived, leapt off before it even stopped and then the stampede began! One crowd was shoving to get off, the other to get on and the stairs to the station were absolutely flooded with bodies. INSANITY! We had to set down our packs in a corner and just stare in awe, figuring out how we were going to get on, if at all.


Then someone told us that there was a slower train a few tracks over. We managed to get on and set the packs down okay but after about 1/2 hour of feeling like two birds in a hurricane, I understood why the women ride in a separate car. By some standards that might seem sexist but to me it seems like a realistic way to deal with the testosterone-driven madness that these guys actually thrive on! I wish I could say I saw more of Mumbai but the morning was so hazy (due to pollution and my tired eyes.) We found the hotel and the train station and then slept all day.


There's SO MUCH POVERTY in this city. Poor people sleep in cots on the dirty streets in makeshift shelters of tarps and discarded wood. They're in the train station under blankets. They're in the airport restroom under the sink - anywhere! Like in Kenya, we're seen as a golden pan-handling opportunity. It's very hard to see these destitute people, especially kids, but I'm getting better at refusing without guilt.


Our train ride was long (5:15 am - 4:30pm) then we had a very confusing bus ride but we made it to Colva Beach, Goa. It's warm, tropical and a little more easy-going. There are bars, restaurants and tourists. There's also a big, beautiful beach which is quite uncrowded. It's slow and restful except for the vendors and taxi drivers who haven't yet learned what "soft sell" means. They're so in-your-face: "Sir, take a look my shop!" "Hello, need taxi!!" "Hello, need sunglasses!!" Whew....


Note: new drink - Kenyan sugar cane liquor (bought at the airport with the last of our KShillings) and Indian Limca... yum!

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