India, Africa, and the Indianapolis Colts

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So this is it.

It's 6:30 a.m. and I'm at the Mumbai airport awaiting a 9:00 flight to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. My backpack is checked and my India adventure has come to a close. Hard to believe. I arrived in India back on the 21st of October, but before I start reminiscing, let's chat about this city.

Mumbai
Having started my journey in the polluted and hectic capital city of Delhi, my expectations were low arriving in Mumbai four days ago. But as India never fails to surprise, I've fallen in love with this city right from the start. First, I went over to Elephanta Island to see some ancient rock/cave carvings and then spent the afternoon wandering around the Colaba area of town. The following morning I ventured out a little further for a long walking tour, including another synagogue (who knew?). By now I was really falling for Mumbai's charm, but it's the city's great food, and I mean GREAT, that would dominate my agenda for the duration of my visit.

On the afternoon of the 12th, I met up with Dev, my friend from Seattle who grew up here in Mumbai (then Bombay ... and if you recall, I spent some time with Dev's extended family back in November in Jaipur). Anyway, I stayed with Dev at his father's apartment in the far northern part of Mumbai along the coast. We basically ate amazing food for three straight days ... first a beach-side barbecue, followed by an all-day eating extravaganza with Dev's brother eating chaats (snacks) followed by a dinner that lasted from nine to midnight. Then yesterday we went to an all-you-can eat, multi-cuisine buffet at a posh hotel and I dined on no less than ten items. Incredible. While I love Indian food, these past three days have given me an entirely new appreciation for the Indian palette, unquestionably the most refined in the entire world. Between spices, chutneys, pickles, sauces, masalas, fishes, meats, veg foods .... there isn't a richer and more dynamic cuisine on the planet. No question. And Mumbai is home to its own fare as well as all the best from north and south India.

All in all, I loved the sights, pace, setting, and food here in the city. And spending my last few days in the country with a good friend was a very relaxing way to say my final namaste to India!


India Retrospective
As for the overall India experience, I don't even know where to begin. Without a doubt, this has been a stretch of incredible experiences, learning, sightseeing and meeting amazing people. India challenged me on a daily (if not hourly) basis with cultural nuance and conundrums. But between its rich history, wonderful nature, amazing religion, friendly people, yoga, HUGE mountains and some extensive beach therapy, this country has made its mark in my heart and on my psyche. I'm going to miss this place dearly.

That said, my pace through the country has been outrageous. My itinerary - based mostly on lonely planet ideas and word-of-mouth - has been made up almost entirely on the fly (the only way to travel). I had some must-see's, of which I visited most (Himalaya, Taj Mahal, Rajasthan, Varanasi, Palolem in Goa). And had some other sites and locations I didn't learn about until I was here. Naturally, those were usually the best and most memorably places from the trip (Kochin, Kerala Backwaters, Bhandav Garh Natl. Park, Mahaballapuram, etc.).

At times I was so exhausted, I didn't think I'd make it three months, and I'm not sure I'd have lasted were it not for my friend Adam's arrival to recharge the batteries. Since the new year started, I've been on an amazing high (except for my sick days in Hampi) that has really set the tone for my state of mind as I reflect and take it all in. I'm really glad I took it easy and had my experiences at Palolem and Mumbai during the final week in the country. Were it not for the recharge, I might have left on a downslide. Instead, I don't feel ready to leave the country at all. In truth, I feel like I've just now hit my real stride. That said, I think it's the best way to leave a place - still wanting more - so that I'm leaving with a desire to return someday instead of feeling burnt out.

And on the horizon ... East Africa for a year!!! I can't even explain my excitement. This is what I've been longing for (I think ... does one ever know having not experienced something yet?). Not exactly the specific destination per se, but the chance to settle in to one place in another setting and culture with enough time to establish relationships, participate/work in the local community, and have a home for a while. My longest stay in India was one week (both Varanasi and Kannur) but I usually only spent 3-4 days in any given location, and the same was true when I traveled in 2003. While its great to cover so much ground, its' the living/working abroad experience that I've been dreaming about since I returned from travel in 2003 and entered grad school. In fact, I started school with the specific intent of working overseas in environmental education. And thanks to the amazing relationships I built at IslandWood in Washington (which also inspired me to stay around for an extra year-and-a-half after graduation) I've been introduced to staff at Jane Goodall Institute, and I know find myself minutes away from departure to East Africa for the duration of 2007 (at minimum, five months in Dar Es Salaam Tanzania and then on to Entebbe, Uganda ).

I'm completely humbled and awestruck at the moment, looking both forward and back at my time in India. This has been an incredible three months. And while I know it seems like extended travel to most of you at home, I'm hoping that when I look back on this time in India, I see it as just an introductory journey, like the preface to a great novel when the pages are numbered in lowercase roman numerals .... i, ii, iii .... with the real story yet to begin. And what an introduction it was!

NAMASTE
David Cook 7:30 a.m., January 15, 2007




For my records, here's the itinerary in review:
Delhi
Himalayan trekking in Pindari Valley (Kumaoun, Uttaranchal)
Delhi
Taj Mahal, Agra
Jaipur
Pushkar
Jodhpur
Jaisalmer (and camel safari in desert)
Varanasi (side trip to Sarnath)
Bhandav Garh National Park (Umaria)
Bangalore
Kannur
Ajanta Beach, Goa
Kochin (and backwaters)
Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary (Kumily)
Madurai
Thanjavur
Mahaballapuram
Bangalore
Hampi
Palolem, Goa
Mumbai


And despite all those locales, look how many I still long to visit (next time)
Leh/Ladakh
Kashmir (if ever safe)
Dharamasala
Udaipur
Darjeeling
Trekking in Sikkim
Calcutta
Ajanta
Ellora
Varkala
Hampi (come one, i was sick there 2 of 3 days)
Rameswaaraam
Mysore
Ooty
Munnar

... I might need another three months!

Also for the records, books and music during the trip:
Lots of Classical Indian
Michael Franti/Spearhead
Death Cab for Cutie (mostly transatlanticism)
Citizen Cope
Chamberlain (after Adam's visit, I had to!)
... and many others that came up on random, but the aforementioned were in heavy rotation


Books (in order of appearance)
The Art of Pilgrimage: The Seekers Guide to Making Travel Sacred, Cousineau
Life of Pi, Martel
Karma Cola, Meta
Midnight's Children, Rushdie (by far the best on this list ... true masterwork)
God of Small Things, Roy
Reason for Hope, Goodall
Chasing the Monsoon, Frater
The Traveller, Hawks
and just started last night ... Angels and Demons (illustrated version!), Brown


Movies (in the theater)
Casino Royale
Babel
Blood Diamond



Afterward:
The Colts
OHMYGOD-OHMYGOD-OHMYGOD-OHMYGOD-OHMYGOD
As I sit typing, I'm also looking at espn.com and following the progress of patriots/chargers game and messaging with my cousin. Oh my god. The Patriots just won the game! Next weekend colts will play at home in Indianapolis for a chance to go to the superbowl against our all-time rival ... and despite a shaky end to the season, this is by far our best possible opportunity to finally reach the big game. WOW!!!!!UNBELIEVABLE!!!!

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Comments

[Rob Kaplan aka the Unkle]

Chapter 1 ending
David, What an awsome recap of India. I ever though I wanted to go to India until now. You damn near had me misty eyed at your lovely conclusion until espn wiggled in there! I will be thinking about you and Tanzania while I am skate skiing in snowy 20 degree wheather. Ciao, Rob

[Tracy]

wow, I don't get to read your blogs that often but when I do I'm so overwhelmed by the awesome organized record keeping you're doing! You're almost as OCD when it comes to details as me! I hope you keep having a fabulous time and although Philly can feel like a crazy foreign place to me, it has nothing on the great sites you've been seeing. P.S. My friend in Cameroon, Africa is having some homesickness troubles. Can you swing by during your free time and keep her company? Thanks!

[Maddi Moose]

What now?
Well David, reading your entry made my mouth water for sure. And now I am wondering what is going on right now. Well, I think you are sleeping right now. No, that would have been India time. Oh, anyway, how are you adjusting? I have some desperately cute pictures of you and Tallis making out at Lower Lena Lake that I will soon post on my blog for you to glance at and get a kick out of. You two make the cutest couple. Miss you alot. Hoping for all kinds of goodness to surround you this next year. Much love.

[Katie Koala]

Getting ready for India
Say man, I just finished reading all your past blog entries after getting your email last week. Your blog history took me three hours to get through, as I fluxed waxing and waning from laughter to tears. I aspire to write with your well blended 1-2 punch combo of insight and sass! Anyhoo- Travis and I are leaving for India in a month and are taking your blog entries to heart in planning our trip. Yikes... the pre-travel suspense is building...