A White Hot Christmas


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December 24th 2006
Published: December 24th 2006
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Vallum on the BackwatersVallum on the BackwatersVallum on the Backwaters

You can hire an expensive Rice Barge on the Backwaters.
I stumbled across a delightful Christmas fair in Allapuzha and even got to shake hands with Grandfather Christmas (as they call him here). I stayed 2 nights in Kumarkom in the heart of the Backwaters and it was great. The few tourists there stayed mostly in their expensive resort compounds so I went exploring. Indian tourists took photos of me paddling in the dugout canoe and a few locals were bemused as I wandered along the canal, but most people were very friendly and the kids were all excited. I have learned to offer ‘one photo’ as an alternative for the frequent demands for ‘one pen’.

Entering the Cardamom Hills it was thankfully cooler and Kottyam was full of colourful Pilgrims on their way to a shrine. I took a local bus and missed my stop, so I had to walk back past the school kids all on their way home and I got lots of photos, smiles and a few giggles! Munnar up in the High Range Tea Plantations was actually very cool at night but quiet and scenic. I finally got to see some tea pickers and I scrambled up a hill-side to meet them. They were amused
Watch out for ripples!Watch out for ripples!Watch out for ripples!

A heavily laden boat carrying sand. No wonder they flag down passing boats to go slowly.
and curious about me and after they gave me a demo of picking they all wanted to try my suntan lotion (very ironic if you think about it). I have to slope off when the foreman came to investigate the disturbance. The Top Station is the highest plantation in India and I had it to myself in the early morning. The scenery looks like Scotland or the Lake District and once again I needed my jacket for the cold (no wonder so many British liked it here).

The journey to Cochin was uncomfortable as we descended out of the Tea Plantations, through the Rubber Plantations and into the hot valley below. Now it is me and not the Christmas turkey that is roasting at 32 degrees! You work up a sweat just sitting still. Cochin is full of tourists (lots of Americans especially) and there are some aggressive touts, but I still have the odd very friendly and informative encounter with locals. I will attend a Carol Service at the St Francis church (where the explorer Vasco da Gama was buried) this evening and go for an X-mas meal buffet tomorrow. I still can’t get over the mix of
Christmas FairChristmas FairChristmas Fair

Street fair in Allepuzha.
decorations and heat.

Next stop is Mumbai then Pune, so my next blog will sadly be my last and likely sent from the freezing cold UK. A Merry Christmas to you all and a Happy 2007.



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Punting in KumarakomPunting in Kumarakom
Punting in Kumarakom

Early morning mist and the sound of temple music in Kumarakom.
Tea LadiesTea Ladies
Tea Ladies

A great excuse for a break.
Top StationTop Station
Top Station

Tea from the top of the world!
KathakaliKathakali
Kathakali

Traditional Keralan theatre (who needs the Xmas panto?).
Chinese Fishing NetsChinese Fishing Nets
Chinese Fishing Nets

The famous landmark of Cochin (now officially called Kochi).


29th December 2006

Nice Blog
Neil, Glad to hear you had a successful, safe and rewarding trip. Enjoyed your commentary and the photos. Trust you got back in one piece. See you in the new year? Best wishes John

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