Hangin' with the hippies

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Anjuna Beach is the original home of the hippy in Goa and current home of the ageing hippy (and seemingly their hippy children). It also seems to house a large community of pasty-white, emaciated British junkies, all doped up to the eyeballs and unable to speak or generally function properly. Quite where I fit in here I'm not totally sure but I've ended here all the same. After a 3rd consecutive day of rain in Arambol, I was none too enamoured at the prospect of spending yet another day inside my hut reading. So I decided to up sticks and jump on a local bus, overcrowded naturally, to Vagator Beach. As it was still raining when I had finally found my lodgings in Vagator, and therefore the beach was ruled out, I decided to take a walk 4 kilometres south to Anjuna to take a peak at the infamous Flea market that everyone goes on about.

Having seen the beach at Anjuna (the flea market was incidental) I decided that I really quite liked the place and that it was certainly better than any of Goa's beaches I'd visited thus far. For starters it is largely litter free (unlike Arambol) and the accomodation and refreshments are actually on the beach (unlike Vagator). So I sought out a guesthouse and booked myself up for the following day. What really swung it for me was the appearance of the sun and a magnificent sunset during which I was able to have a long overdue beer. Ah, the simple pleasures in life. Whilst having my sundowner, a group of ageing hippies next to me, some sporting rather fetching thong speedos, sparked up a huge marijuana bong and proceeded to pass it down the line to each other. At the end of the line was a grandmother who was most definitely the wrong side of 80. Her excuse could have been arthritis I guess but I provided a very surreal moment nonetheless. Over here drugs seem to be openly offered, dealt and used without a care in world. If the police operated on a commission basis in relation to their arrests (not an altogether unlikely scenario in India) they could make an absolute fortune in Anjuna

It was a real shame that I didn't get to see Arambol in it's best light. It has a very attractive setting and there is a really laid back feel to the place. But the 3 consecutive days of rain were enough to wreck the most heavenly of paradises. I did manage to get out a couple of times during the rare dry periods. One such time was a visit to Querim beach, allegedly the most beautiful and secluded in the area. It was a bit of a task getting there as I climbed up rocks, over hills, waded through water and wound my way in between crevices. I felt like Leo di Caprio trying to find his beach. Except fortunately there were no Thai drug dealers waiting for me at the end with machine guns. Although I did have one rather sticky moment with a bull and it's calf. They were blocking the path so I decided to find an alternative route. none exisited though so I decided to take on the cows. The bull was having none of this and made a charge. I've never moved as quick in my life and shot up the hillside to safety. Terrified doesn't even come close.

To be honest I wish I hadn't bothered with the excursion. The beach was secluded alright (unsurprising given the tortuous route there) but nothing spectacular and there was a power station built at one end. About the only interesting thing was a strange orange dog with black stripes. Clearly the result of a courtship between a tiger and a canine. I think I know who was daddy.

As for Vagator, well I didn't really give it a chance but then first impressions weren't great. There's nothing down by the beach itself and the place seems totally deserted save for the plethora of buses bringing in the Indian daytrippers for a whistlestop tour of the area. And anyway Anjuna has in fact worked out well. The sunshine has finally appeared, the sunsets (and and mandatory cold beers) have been great and the food a pleasure to eat (although to be fair I've not eaten badly yet in India). The only downside is that I have just a couple of days left to continue enjoying it.

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Comments

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oi !
great chat and the photos are good ..one grumble - is that my towel i see hanging outside your hut ??? what number of stolen towels does this take you up to now then ??

[The Gibbo]

Bull S**T
Tommy with your fantastic travel blog which has kept me hugley entertained, and all of your great photos I can't believe you did not get pictures of your self getting chased by a calf. Very poor form will have to do better.